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  2. Toyo Proxes 4 plus

    Okay, I got the Michelin Pilot Super Sport about a month ago. Very smooth riding. They grip the pavement like Velcro. Now I have to wait for winter to see how they do there. B.
  3. Well, my old girl hit 60k miles today. Still runs like a top. She could use a good detail though. B.
  4. Same as with any other car really, service records, particularly fluid changes - oil, trans, ptu/rdu, coolant, etc. Then turbo-related stuff - is there pooling oil anywhere in the piping, are pipes cracked at the clamp areas, etc. Pull the pipes off the turbos to inspect the turbos closely for pooling oil, damage to the impellers, etc. Check struts and shocks for leaking fluid, tie rod ends, control arms and hubs for wear. If tires are worn, they will need to be replaced soon. Any codes stored in the PCM. If a P1000 is present, you should check again once the P1000 resolves. Hard to tell if the car is tuned or stock/ever been tuned. Check battery for CCAs. Suggest getting an AGM battery with high CCAs, toughmax 850 for example. Sunroof drains should flow freely. Sunshade should work properly. Do not buy without having a warranty in hand, whether it is CPO, powertrain, etc. Electronics are expensive, and won't be covered by powertrain, so something to keep in mind.
  5. The F150 ecoboost engine is specific to the longitudinal layout, with some differences in internal componentry including crankshaft and connecting rods. Turbos are different/bigger. The water pump is also mounted externally. This causes fitment issues in the transverse layout, in addition to programming required to work in the transverse layout. Transmissions are different, tho you might be able to get it to work as is, or need adapter plates, IDK.
  6. The link to your pics does not work. B.
  7. I am new to these cars and found a 2010 MKS with bad engine (no info on what is wrong). I was thinking in worst case I can buy a used engine from yard and have a shop install it. How involved is swapping engines in these cars? Is the ecoboost in the F150 compatible or are they body specific? Thanks
  8. I only put on 5000 miles a year, so I change it every 15,000 miles. When the car is out of its extended Ford warrantee, I'll probably do it every 10,000 miles. At this point, if it blows, I'm still under warranty so every 15,000 miles is what I decided to do. I have the dealer do it. If I recall correctly, it's about 100 bucks or so. I did have to convince them over time to do it........ as they gave me the standard "FORD says it's lifetime fluid".
  9. Mks ptu service.

    It is the same as an SHO. You suck the old lubricant out of the fill plug. The fill plug can be seen from under the car. I am sure there are pictures of it floating around somewhere in the forums.
  10. Mks ptu service.

    There are no plugs to remove to get to the fluid on my MKS. I heard that on the SHOs their is.? ??
  11. Mks ptu service.

    I changed my annually and many others do the same. It is not difficult to suck the old fluid out and put new in if you are a do-it-yourselfer.....although it can be messy. If you don't want to do it, there are places that will. You might want to check around. It is good maintenance.
  12. Hello, I haven't posted on this forum in quite some time. I have a 2011 MKS with about 45,000miles and the ecoboost package and I want to service my ptu. The place I took it to says that it's a sealed unit. How are people changing the fluid in these? Thanks in advance!
  13. I work at a toyota dealership, and we just had a 15 sho with 43k miles on it traded in... Since our 12 sho was totaled a few years ago.. got a family suv. But miss my sho... What kind of things should I look for on this 15 sho?
  14. SHO parts for sale!

    Is the tuner unlocked? You might also want to post on shoforum.com and ecoboostperformance.com, as well as the https://www.taurusclub.com/ website for greater visibility if you do not get results.
  15. SHO parts for sale!

    SCT X4 7015, 3 bar map sensor, plugs and K&N drop in filter all for sale. Great condition pulled off car before sold. Looking for $350 for the whole package. As most of you know it will wake up your car instantly. Let me know if you have any questions.
  16. SHO water pumps

    Looks like you have things well under control now. The only change I would advise would be to go to full synthetic oil, ecoboost engines really do thrive on it. Something like Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum, RP HPS, Redline would be top choices. Pennzoil is relatively inexpensive for the protection it provides.
  17. Hi SHOdded! Just to be on the safe side I had the water pump and all the associated parts for the cams replaced as well as the water pump by my regular mechanic. He also replaced the engine coolant and oil and filter with new also. Mine takes a one or two year specific ($$$) green coolant that he got directly from the local Ford dealer. The engine has 106,000 miles on it and I'm on an oil change plan so the oil gets changed every 3 months with a synthetic blend oil regardless of the mileage. We bought the car new with 35 miles on it and it's been pretty darn reliable for us. I know what you are talking about with regard to the specific cam chains, gears, sprockets, VVT solenoids, guides, etc. as Rock auto sent me the wrong set up and then would not take them back because by the time that my mech got the timing cover off the block and found out that I had the wrong parts over 100 days had elapsed, and they said "Sorry Charlie" 30 days for a return and not one second more even if we screw up. I'm just plain out $350.00 but at least I'm not worried that I'll be along the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Thanks for your two cents worth. Hopefully, somebody will read this thread and see that there is more than one set of timing chains and not have the trouble that I went through. C-YA ! AV8R
  18. Sometimes it is the strut mount/bearing and or the bolts that hold it in place are not properly tightened down. I would rotate the tires, see if the noise moves with it. Maybe the wheel is cracked/unbalanced. Did you use OEM /Motorcraft bearings, or SKF, Timken ...? Other aftermarket brands are often cheaply designed and fail quickly. Did you replace the right bearing or the left bearing?
  19. I believe this is the sunshade motor required https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-adjust-motor-bg1z15790a/
  20. Code p0457

    The EVAP purge valve is generally the goto faulty devices with the P045X codes, tho is SOMEtimes turns out to be the canister/vent solenoid. Not sure what year your ride is, but you will want to search using your VIN to make sure you get the right purge valve off a dealer site.
  21. Looking for advice

    If you want a stable, no headaches tune, go with Livernois. There are always some minor tweaks that will come up, but nothing that requires extensive testing/dangerous situations on/for your SHO. If you go with SCT, there are a few recommended tuners you can work with, choice really being how involved you want to get with the tuning.
  22. New to Forum, New to EcoBoost

    Welcome!
  23. Hello

    Welcome!
  24. SHO water pumps

    What is the maintenance history on your SHO? Have you been waiting till the Ford recommended initial service interval for the coolant? How much longer do you anticipate keeping the SHO? Due to the internal WP design, it is important to change out coolant frequently as a precautionary measure, as well as use a quality full synthetic low volatility engine oil to help prevent issues with the timing system (chain slack/rattle, VCT solenoid sticking, etc). The engine in the SHO is a VCT system, not a Ti-VCT system, so it has only one set of teeth driving the WP. I believe that also contributes to the wobble that then leads to bearing failure. Seal failure is more of a "tired" coolant issue, as additives do wear down with time. If you would like to keep the SHO for some time, as I certainly would, consider it preventive maintenance to replace the water pump, chains, tensioners, guides, maybe even the phasers, and definitely the solenoids. Don't just have the WP done. New belts of course, and belt tensioner too. The oil pump rarely fails on these engines, but your mechanic can take a look. The oil pump part is pretty cheap, as the WP, in the scheme of things. At the very least, completely flush out the coolant, use OEM/motorcraft coolant (I think orange?) to replace. Send old coolant out for testing at a lab like blackstone to confirm that the engine has no issues at this point. You could choose to use the Heavy Duty coolants that are meant to be in place for up to a million miles, but I know of only 1 person doing this and it is on a naturally aspirated 3.5, not the GTDI version. That's my 2 cents HTH.
  25. I figured I would give you guys a write up on how I did it. So here is all that I did. For record, all bolts are the same length and are all 7mm. First go here. I labeled each folder to each section of this write up so you can better understand what is going on. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lchahidegeMrtEnfT-twRVQdfeXLBsHA First of all I took the dash apart to check and see what I was dealing with behind the controls. There is the CD/FM/Serious module and below that is the climate control module. On each side of the CD module are brackets and there are four bolts holding it in. So now that I knew what I was dealing with I started the project. Section 1: I went to ebay and got a sony controls replacement dash. I found one from a 2012 taurus for 60 bucks. Once I got it I took the sony controls apart I cut that bottom section out. I then took a piece of 1/4in black plexi I had and traced the controls onto that sheet then cut out the shape. I then cut a double din slot inside of that. After all of that I took some body filler(first time ever using it) and filled in the void between the bottom and top pieces. I then painted it black. Section 2: Now lets work on the stuff in the dash. You will see the FM module in there held in by 4 bolts. Once you get them undone the module will come straight out. There is enough slack in the harness to maneuver it around. Now go ahead and temporarily disconnect it and set it aside. Right below the FM module, you will see a smaller black box. That is the climate control module. I can not remember if there was a bolt holding it down but on the right is a metal tab it sits on that I had to bend down out of the way. Now take that module and set it down into the dash. I was having issues with the sync module complaining to me about the 911 feature being not available when I would unplug the FM module so I kept it connected took the side brackets off and positioned it slot facing up. I then did a dry fit of the dash kit I made to check fitment. My double din cage was hitting a small section of the sub dash So I went ahead and got the dremel out and cut that small section out. I did another dryfit with the headunit installed. Now it fits. Section 3: Next I went to the back where the factory amp is. I got a hold of the diagram that is in one of the sticky posts in this forum. At this point I need a acc wire for the headunit up front. I was going to use the factory amp enable wire, but it would kick on as soon as you open the door or do basically anything with the car. What I did was bought a PAC-TR4 and cut the Yellow right rear sub negative wire and used that as the sense wire for the PAC-TR4. I then ran my 12v switched wire from the PAC to the front to the headunit. As a safe measure, I also ran power and ground from my amp hookups to the front for the headunit while I was at it. At this point I already installed the amps, I just never hooked up the speaker wires yet as the factory amp was still hooked up. What you will need to do for the 6x9 subs is cut those wires off the connector as that connector will need to stay hooked up for the PAC to sense the amp is turning on from the sync module up front. Just make sure you leave enough wire on the connector side in case you need to go back to stock. The connector in the middle is all the speaker outputs except for the 2 6x9s in the rear deck. So what I did instead of cutting each wire, was just tapped into each wire wire wire taps. At this point you can hook up to the amps. Just don't put the connector back into the factory amp. So now to recap with the amp. It is still receiving a turn on signal from the front. The PAC-TR4 senses a speaker level output and turns on the after market headunit, thus turning on the amps as well. At this point the factory amp is only used to turn on the aftermarket stuff. Now before you install the dash kit and headunit, remember that little connector behind the sony controls? You will need that still. The climate control WILL NOT WORK if those controls are not at least connected somewhere. So I took the controls from the doner dash kit, reassembled them, and put them in the glove box just to the sync module does not complain. The harness can be unclipped from the sub dash and will reach into the glove box. Section 4: I ran my RCAs and remote turn on lead down the passenger side of the car while keeping the power wires on the driver side. I ran all the speaker wires to that harness that was in the factory amp and am using the cars factory wire. As you can see in the pictures, I still need to do a little clean up on the dash kit, but I think it looks good fore it being my first time using body filler. Once again, link to the pics: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lchahidegeMrtEnfT-twRVQdfeXLBsHA Additional things to cover and some things I ran into while doing this: Be careful when pulling panels up. I cant even tell you how many clips I broke due to being impatient. Take your time. I ended up getting an alternator whine once everything was installed. I ended up having to ground everything to the frame part behind the back bumper and not just the metal in the trunk. Not sure if it is because of how I have it installed or what, but it has never been an issue until this car. Did I lose any features? Depends, The back up sensors still work. I can hear the beep when I back up as that is a separate speaker. It does not turn the volume down like it used to but I am not usually blasting music when i am going backwards anyways. The beeping that comes from the side sensors actually comes out of the cluster itself so I did not lose that either. Depending on how you have your chimes set up, you might have to go into Forscan and set the chimes to cluster only. I had to do that as they used to go through the speakers. I obvously lost that when I unhooked the speakers from the factory amp. I don't know if you would consider this as losing functionality, but the heat controls are obviously a little more of a pain to deal with now as all you have is the screen to do everything with and maybe the cluster if you have climate control there too. I did not lose any climate control functionality, it is just in the climate section of sync instead. How do I get the name of the song to show up on sync AND the aftermarket unit? I have an LG V30 that allows me to connect to 2 devices at the same time. Feel free to post below with any questions.
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