Paulford8 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 First-SHO big props to you for trying to pioneer some new stuff. Cant wait to see your results! Really cant wait for spring to see my results, really cant wait for spring period... Such is the midwest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nameneeded Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 First-SHO big props to you for trying to pioneer some new stuff. Cant wait to see your results! Really cant wait for spring to see my results' date=' really cant wait for spring period... Such is the midwest![/quote'] Not only did I get my SHO in winter (Dec/12) I ride bikes as well..... REALLY want winter to end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulford8 Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Not only did I get my SHO in winter (Dec/12) I ride bikes as well..... REALLY want winter to end... I bet in Canada! You probably have to stop several weeks earlier, and start later then we do in the midwest. March will be OK and weather is pretty nice by April. Some tracks open up again late March, all open by mid April. Some nut job here rides his bike almost year round as well.... He has two all out race cars and a suburbon to pull them. The suburbon gets single digits so he rides the bike on any clear day as long as it is at least double digits, and above freezing he will ride on not so clear days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fa-SHO Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Our tracks are still open. :RpS_biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulford8 Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Our tracks are still open. :RpS_biggrin: jerk! You know I could have had a job at a Texas plant at work. Racing year around was listed on the pluses That said the plant they needed me at isnt in the greatest area, schools arent great, etc. I had to pass and now I am training somebody to go do what I do there (Denison). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my94lightning Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Just food for thought. (its winter after all) Has anyone put a go-pro in the engine bay and watched whats going on when spinning and shifting gears. Just wondering if the engine and trans mounts are letting the motor bounce like a ping pong ball in there. might want to record suspension movement also on launches. next up,(way out there) have you fast guys looked into tire warmers, like open wheel race cars use, my guess is prolly way to much money and not good for racing. but, might help keep heat in tires for , "personal best" or ET record runs atleast where not staging between rounds etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRocks Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 . I know it assisted me returning in the day. But if they've been tried and didn't perform bummer. Since we're mainly fwd I question it would have a large impact on the returning. Bring on excellent sir, can't hang on to see how it performs out . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulford8 Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Just food for thought. (its winter after all)Has anyone put a go-pro in the engine bay and watched whats going on when spinning and shifting gears. Just wondering if the engine and trans mounts are letting the motor bounce like a ping pong ball in there. might want to record suspension movement also on launches. next up,(way out there) have you fast guys looked into tire warmers, like open wheel race cars use, my guess is prolly way to much money and not good for racing. but, might help keep heat in tires for , "personal best" or ET record runs atleast where not staging between rounds etc. I havent seen an engine bay vid, dont think anybody has tried it. I have watched my launch vids in slow mo and my front end rises/tires spin through 3rd gear. Now in my case I am still running the stock all seasons (summer tires & PP rims ready to go on). I am interested to see what the suspension experiments do. Looks like you have done what I want to do future state to the 94 L. SO the goal is to eventually make the L the fastest car in the drive. 393 b/c you can use a regular length skirted 302 piston, and boost is my plan. Looks like you have a solid combo, I would be interested in the details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baggedsvt Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Any updates on these traction bars? And I have noticed a lot of Lightning owners are SHO owners lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-SHO Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Any updates on these traction bars? And I have noticed a lot of Lightning owners are SHO owners lol. Yes, they are complete and finishing the limit straps. I will have a complete write up on everything maybe this weekend with links and photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baggedsvt Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Yes' date=' they are complete and finishing the limit straps. I will have a complete write up on everything maybe this weekend with links and photos.[/quote'] Very nice. Are the mounts going to be weld on or bolt on? I am lucky to have a certified welder as a good friend but I am sure many are hoping for a full bolt on setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-SHO Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Very nice. Are the mounts going to be weld on or bolt on? I am lucky to have a certified welder as a good friend but I am sure many are hoping for a full bolt on setup. The mounts will have to be welded. There is no way around it and believe me I would have rather had a bolt on mod, but just won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 The mounts will have to be welded. There is no way around it. Believe me, I would have rather had a bolt on mod, but it just won't work. Glad to know I have me a welder on stand by..... :thumb: Look'n forward to end results and hoping your efforts prove to be fruitful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-SHO Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Glad to know I have me a welder on stand by..... :thumb: Look'n forward to end results and hoping your efforts prove to be fruitful. You and me both. I really would like to get it out and take a couple of hard launches just to make sure the strength is there before posting all the info, but the stuff is stout. I have spent about $500 in additional cost, just buying things to try, but have it all together now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArthurJGuy Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I was involved with helping eliminate wheel hop in the LS1/2 GTO community and we found alot of it was driveline harmonics, much like when you hear two notes and one is just a hair off from the other you can hear the interference. Switching to a larger diameter axle on just one side would offset the harmonics enough to eliminate wheel hop on 95% of the cars that did this, one of the things we used for testing was lead tape from a local sporting good store. OP, you may consider wrapping just one axle with lead tape a few times to see if that makes a difference also, If it does I have a guy that I am all but convinced I can get to build axles for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 So Mike, if I recall correctly, initial investment was around $600, then you've added another $500 or so along the way, correct? So for those potentially looking at doing this, probably should be budgeting for $1K to like $1,250 perhaps? ......and to Arthur, thanks for the added info, and your involvement here on EBOF! Welcome :welcome: and please be sure to post up an intro thread when time permits, so that others can welcome you aboard as well. Sure would hate to have you lost in obscurity when we appreciate each members input here in our wonderful EcoBoost community :thumb: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArthurJGuy Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 ......and to Arthur, thanks for the added info, and your involvement here on EBOF! Welcome :welcome: and please be sure to post up an intro thread when time permits, so that others can welcome you aboard as well. Sure would hate to have you lost in obscurity when we appreciate each members input here in our wonderful EcoBoost community :thumb: Thanks, will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulford8 Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 I was involved with helping eliminate wheel hop in the LS1/2 GTO community and we found alot of it was driveline harmonics' date=' much like when you hear two notes and one is just a hair off from the other you can hear the interference. Switching to a larger diameter axle on just one side would offset the harmonics enough to eliminate wheel hop on 95% of the cars that did this, one of the things we used for testing was lead tape from a local sporting good store. OP, you may consider wrapping just one axle with lead tape a few times to see if that makes a difference also, If it does I have a guy that I am all but convinced I can get to build axles for us.[/quote'] Thats in interesting idea. I doubt anybody has given much thought to the axle shafts because they are supposedly extremely strong. Any thoughts on which to try and offset? Passenger side because there is less weight? I will watch my vids again. I dont remember much hop, just spinning. I ran crap high mile tires last year so I will be starting this year some better shoes on her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-SHO Posted February 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 So Mike, if I recall correctly, initial investment was around $600, then you've added another $500 or so along the way, correct? So for those potentially looking at doing this, probably should be budgeting for $1K to like $1,250 perhaps? ......and to Arthur, thanks for the added info, and your involvement here on EBOF! Welcome :welcome: and please be sure to post up an intro thread when time permits, so that others can welcome you aboard as well. Sure would hate to have you lost in obscurity when we appreciate each members input here in our wonderful EcoBoost community :thumb: No, I spent an additional $500 in parts I did not use. They were trial and error parts. I would say the setup will be around $750 or so when completed. I have spoke with Dan at LMS and will be taking the car to see him next week. They may put a complete kit together that may offer an easier installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Any update on this? I've been on the look out for poly bushings, which would do about 75% of what these would do, but this would be the icing on the cake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-SHO Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 OK, so here is my writeup. Traction Bars http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=77&idcategory=21 Must replace control arm bolt with ½-13 x 4” bolt. I used stainless. Mount front helm joint with bushings to control arm first. Align traction bar attached to bracket for proper weld point and then weld bracket to frame. Adjust traction bar with suspension in the ride position. Do not over tighten. Front End Links http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=81&idcategory=21 Must replace bolts with http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6774 I also had to make some bushings for the strut mount and the sway-bar mount. I have extras, for those who take on the project. Rear End Links – No Modification, just mount, adjust and tighten http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=85&idcategory=21 Limit Straps – For use ONLY at the track and must be attached at the track. http://www.pacificcustoms.com/RA18114.html Straps http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC510050&Store_Code=PC&search=clevis&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high= Clevis The clevis is the only thing you will use, as room will not allow the use of a pin with retainer. I made two new pins to be tack welded within the clevis. Purchase kit below and cut two pieces 3” long and heat wrap clevis to strap. Be sure to cover entire clevis. This will protect springs from rub damage. http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202204318?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cpgi-hs-splice-kit-1%2F0&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202204318#.USjW0qX_Sao Drill out the upper hole to allow some play, about 5/8” as you want the strap to give when turning. Apply dip coat to the hole to minimize clevis thread damage. Replace the factory lower strut bolt with a modified 10.9 M14 x 2.0 120 long https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=11113742 The threads need to be ¾ longer, so you will need to take a thread die and do that yourself. Use the same stock lock nut to secure bolt. Add a M14 x 2.0 nut for space, washer then limit strap, washer and new lock nut. Bolt the lower limit strap into position, then feed the clevis through the new hole. Add harden washer and nut. At this time mount wheels and let rest on tires. Tighten nut until desired squat is achieved, then add second lock nut. Note, the clevis will have to be cut in order to shut the hood. You have 5/8” clearance from the top of the strut mount to the hood shock support. If you remove the hood shock support you have 1 5/8” clearance, so cut for your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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