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  2. OP, Which part number for the front rotors did you buy? And was it just the rotor or did the rotor come with the unit bearing and reluctor? EBC wants four hundred bucks just for the front rotors. I did the EBC redstuff and slotted rear brakes and love them. But sticker shock is killing me on the fronts. Thanks, Bruce
  3. About 3 years ago I sold my 2011 SHO since in the 5 years I owned it I only put 15k miles on it. In the time I owned it I think I put more miles on my polishing cloth than I did on the car, and it was tying up valuable garage space. Well, I've somewhat regretted selling it ever since and just found an excuse to get a daily driver. I'm considering a 2013 MKS EcoBoost at a local dealer that is asking a good price for a 57k mile car. The car has a drop-in K&N filter and slotted and drilled brake rotors so I'm wondering if there's a chance the previous owner was an enthusiast and might be on this forum. The CarFax shows that the car was most recently in Schaumburg, IL. It's black with brown leather and seems to be pretty well loaded. If the previous owner happens to see this post, I'd love to touch base with them to find out if there is anything known to be wrong with the car. -Rod
  4. Hit the BIG 6'OH

    I agree with SHOdded…….. still a long ways yet to go! Congratz on the milestone! Now be sure to treat her accordingly. Good bath/detail. Change of fluids, etc. and she'll continue running like a top!
  5. Hit the BIG 6'OH

    Only 60K! Long ways to go yet
  6. Toyo Proxes 4 plus

    Okay, I got the Michelin Pilot Super Sport about a month ago. Very smooth riding. They grip the pavement like Velcro. Now I have to wait for winter to see how they do there. B.
  7. Well, my old girl hit 60k miles today. Still runs like a top. She could use a good detail though. B.
  8. Same as with any other car really, service records, particularly fluid changes - oil, trans, ptu/rdu, coolant, etc. Then turbo-related stuff - is there pooling oil anywhere in the piping, are pipes cracked at the clamp areas, etc. Pull the pipes off the turbos to inspect the turbos closely for pooling oil, damage to the impellers, etc. Check struts and shocks for leaking fluid, tie rod ends, control arms and hubs for wear. If tires are worn, they will need to be replaced soon. Any codes stored in the PCM. If a P1000 is present, you should check again once the P1000 resolves. Hard to tell if the car is tuned or stock/ever been tuned. Check battery for CCAs. Suggest getting an AGM battery with high CCAs, toughmax 850 for example. Sunroof drains should flow freely. Sunshade should work properly. Do not buy without having a warranty in hand, whether it is CPO, powertrain, etc. Electronics are expensive, and won't be covered by powertrain, so something to keep in mind.
  9. The F150 ecoboost engine is specific to the longitudinal layout, with some differences in internal componentry including crankshaft and connecting rods. Turbos are different/bigger. The water pump is also mounted externally. This causes fitment issues in the transverse layout, in addition to programming required to work in the transverse layout. Transmissions are different, tho you might be able to get it to work as is, or need adapter plates, IDK.
  10. The link to your pics does not work. B.
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