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EcoBoostSHO

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EcoBoostSHO last won the day on June 9 2016

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About EcoBoostSHO

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core_pfieldgroups_99

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    Minneapolis
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    Cars and Computers
  1. Thoughts on the latest 4+ update

    Cool. I am fine with it then. Just worried something was wrong with my car. I did find a disconnected vacuum hose from my trip to the dealer...Nice. Not the source of the noise though.
  2. Thoughts on the latest 4+ update

    I'm really loving the tune as well! Definitely a huge improvement (and I was happy before!). I do have what sounds like a bit of a whistle/loud blow off valve sound that seems to have coincided with the tune install. It only happens if I just start to generate a couple of pounds of boost in 2nd or 3rd and then let off the throttle 'sharply'...I get what sounds exactly like the BOV venting to atmosphere with a bit of a whistle...except I don't have my BOV's vented to atmosphere. I can totally live with it and I'm guessing it probably isn't related to the tune itself but something else going on that that tune may be bringing to the surface? That said I thought I would ask if anyone else has experienced this? You have to have your radio off and AC Fan down to even hear it and letting off the throttle gradually will not produce it... I may have a BOV issue?
  3. Very interested in seeing how this goes. I'm on my second set of taillights as well and they look horrible. Oh and the Ford dealer says no go on a replacement again. I even asked for regular tail lights but as others have found out they won't even consider it. Ridiculous.
  4. FedEx Arrived This Morning

    I have to completely agree...just loaded up the 3 Bar and 4X tune this morning and wow what an improvement (not that I didn't like the 4+ tune to begin with)!!
  5. Torque PIDs for Taurus

    Thanks! I updated the original post with some new information...
  6. Haven't posted here in a long time but no time like the present. Hope this is helpful. It is my research reposted here to help: I finally spent some time this weekend trying out an idea I had and I believe it is working so far. I am reverse engineering a few of the PIDs with a serial protocol analyzer and a scan tool that requests the information. I basically request a parameter one PID at a time and capture the response from the car which includes the original PID and the value. As such I am fairly confident in the PID however the "math" part of the equation is more challenging. Here is what I have confirmed so far... *Disclaimer - these are for a 2011...I believe them to be the same for other cars but you should verify they work before you go driving around. As always do not tweak these while moving. 2011 Taurus pids Gear Ratio PID 221E19 Torque equation: ((A*256)+ / 4096 1st 4.484 2nd 2.872 3rd 1.842 4th 1.414 5th 1.000 6th 0.742 Reverse -2.882 (not sure Reverse really works yet but it shows "0") Fuel Pump pressure "desired" (This probably isn't terribly interesting until you compare it against measured fuel pressure (which is already available in Torque). Most of us won't have an issue with this unless you are running Ethanol blends and are worried about running out of pump capacity. I'm venturing a large discrepancy between Desired and Measured would be "bad". 2203dc torque Equation ((256*A)+*10*.145 readout in PSI. Cylinder Head Temp - I am convinced this just replicates Engine Coolant Temperature. I don't believe this is actually Cylinder Head temperature...I will leave it here for reference. PID 22F405 Torque Equation (A-40)*1.8+32 for deg. F Intercooler (CAC) - I believe this equation is fairly accurate at this point but it was "Interpreted" so it may be off a tiny bit. This sensor is right before the throttle body and after the intercooler. It is also a stock 3 BAR pressure sensor. Charge Air Cooler PID 220461 Torque Equation ((((256*A)+*.011404134)+9.26087)*1.8+32 IAT2 This sensor is on top of the intake manifold and is also a pressure sensor. This is the sensor that many people are swapping out for a "3 Bar". PID 2203CA Torque Equation (A-40)*1.8+32 in Deg. F Trans Gear PID 221e23 70 indicates "Park" 60 Indicates "R" 50 Indicates "N" 46 Indicates "D" 10 Indicates "M" Waste Gate % PID 220462 Equation A/128*100 AWD module PWM Modulation of rear clutch % Returns a number that indicates how much the rear clutch is being directed to lock up and thus send power rearward. PID 22D128 Formula A/256*100 Still investigating the following PIDS. The PIDS are correct but the Formulas need work. Knock - Note that I am convinced this will get you knock measured in 1/2 degree increments. I haven't totally figured it out but am comfortable at this point that it will get the "big" number right...i.e. 1,2,3,4 degrees of knock...and that's the important part. PID 2203EC Torque Equation Signed (A)/2 Torque Control Requested (Used during shifting to reduce torque...aka torque management.) 2203AF returns 0 with car off...Seems to return % Torque reduction number or maybe timing # being pulled? Misfire Monitor PID 220700 Tire pressures: The PIDs are 224140 and 224141. They return a decimal value that gets divided by 3 and that gives you the pressure in KPA. At least I think...I am trying to verify all this. The challenge is two fold. First my scan tool pretends it knows which tire is the "front left" etc...well that is great until you rotate them a few dozen times...then they don't match up so it's made correlating the values challenging. The next issue is that I have to figure out which variable in the formula to use for individual tires. Assuming Torque can read the MSCAN bus and you are using an adapter such as the MX that can physically access that bus this may work. I am trying different formulas however currently I am using (((256*A)+b)/3)*.145 and (((256*C)+D)/3)*.145 . That results in values in PSI. Adding a single PID: Add a custom PID in Torque by going to the "Settings" section off the main screen. Enter the following for the fields it prompts you for: "OBD2 Mode and PID" = 221E1C "Long Name" = Trans Temp "Short Name" = Trans T "Minimum Value" = -40 "Maximum Value" = 260 "Scale Factor" = 1 "Unit Type" = deg "Equation" = (((signed(A)*256)+*(9/8)+320)/10 Leave the OBD Header blank Adding gauges to your Torque Screen: Go to the Realtime Information display from the main menu and then find a place on the screen you’d like to put your new gauge. Long press and then “Add Display”. Pick a gauge type and then scroll to find your new PIDs. Position it on the screen and then repeat the whole process until your gauges are all populated on the screen.
  7. Thermostat install?

    You don't necessarily need another program. It will help keep the car cooler though if they change the fan settings. I believe some 4+ tunes had it already but some people didn't like the fans running all the time since they are so loud. So you may actually already have it. You can email Livernois and ask them to send you one if you aren't sure...
  8. Thermostat install?

    I believe you just rev the motor in neutral to about 2000-2500 rpm for a couple of minutes...then let it idle...check level then repeat. That said I don't remember needing to actually top mine off.
  9. Intake air temps?

    I did some testing with my airaid this weekend. I first insulated the box with sticky foam sheets backed with a reflective aluminum layer. I had a 3" hole that I plugged for this test. Drove the car and then parked and started timing every 60 seconds. Ambient was 66 degrees and after a minute the reading was 76...after two minutes 86 degrees. Went shopping and when I came out the car was heat soaked at 100+ degrees. I started driving and noted that temps seemed to drop off quickly back to ambient once I was moving at highway speeds. Next up was cutting out the 3" hole and repeating the test. I basically saw IAT's about 10 degrees higher at lower speeds and idle then I had with the completely closed box. Getting back up to speed cooled it back down to ambient but it took longer to get back down to that level. After that I added a 3" snorkel (unfortunately non-insulated aluminum flex tube) to the 3" hole and pointed it down to the fenderwell. It still ran a little warmer but it did cool back down much quicker when accelerating. I agree that the problem may very well be the IAT sensor location itself. It can't be good to have that thing sitting in tube (even the plastic airaid one). May try insulating that and see if it helps...
  10. Intake air temps?

    I am testing my Airaid right now. I insulated the box and temporarily plugged my 3" fender hole for a start. Will remove hole cover and test again...then will add a hose/snorkel and try tat. I did also cut 3" of the hood rubber gasket up front of the factory cold air inlet. Seems dumb it blocks that. Will report ack in a few days .
  11. Intake air temps?

    I did something similar with my Airaid thinking it would help flow although I just cut a 3.5" hole in the side and used a PVC collar...I don't yet have a "tube" on it to below the fender. The way it is right now does seem to promote high IAT's at idle...my IAT's will spike to 40-50 degrees above ambient (so it's 100 on the gauge when it's like 60 outside) It cools down very quickly after that. I've actually thought about insulating the Airaid box to see if that helps and will be adding a tube on the thing to bring in cooler air. Just a heads up for anyone thinking about hackgin up their box. It will definitely flow better but idle temps are affected.
  12. EGT gauges

    Pid is what OBDII uses as an identifier for a parameter to lookup in the computer. It is usually a number in Hex. Torque hides all that from you unless you want to create a custom gauge. If you know the PID and the scaling equation you can add a custom gauge in Torque. Assuming the computer supports it. Unfortunately they aren't readily available from the car manufacturers.
  13. EGT gauges

    Assuming Ford had a sensor for it you would need the PID for Torque to read it properly. You can get Catalyst temperature which isn't a direct readout of exhaust gas but gives you a general idea of what is going on. At least we have widebands in these cars...
  14. Catback exhaust drone

    I have just the Dynomax exhaust with everything else stock and in my opinion it does "drone" a little. Maybe our definitions our a little different but I count drone as a constant hum/resonation at certain speed ranges while cruising. My car definitely does that. Now I'm actually not knocking it as I really like the sound of the exhaust and it has quieted down some (probably due to carbon build up). But it isn't quiet by any means cruising 70-80 MPH. Unfortunately the sounds of different exhausts are subjective to the tastes of the owners and I strongly recommend you try and find a way to hear one in person (difficult I realize) as clips on the Internet are almost impossible to reproduce the real sound of the exhaust. One person may love a certain sound and to someone else it sounds horrible...there are a lot of 4 cylinders out there with giant 4" cannons on them that sound like angry bees...I hate it but clearly there is a segment of the population that thinks its just "awesome".
  15. Track day prep....

    Video camera!
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