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shobiz last won the day on March 1 2017

shobiz had the most liked content!

About shobiz

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    guitar, music writing, programming, cool rides
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  1. They claim it's fine, but I'm wondering myself. I didn't realize the 2011 had an electric rack though...?
  2. So during an ice storm last week, I went into a round-about that was pure ice. I almost made it through but on the far side I slid into the curb and it damaged my SHO . I got her back last night, $1500 later: Bent rim replaced Both tie rod ends replaced Front lower control arm w/bushing Suspension stabilizer bar 4 wheel alignment Wheel bearing replaced They showed me the components that they removed, and I have to say that those pieces are pretty stout! Especially the lower control arm, it looks to be made of cast iron or solid steel. They were surprised because it was a meatier piece than comes even on a lot of trucks! I have done suspension work myself before, and most vehicles have arms made of sandwiched layers of thin steel and are hollow, and the rods and arms are pretty thin. On this car, it looks like the parts are pretty large. In any case, they look like high quality parts. The one thing is that they couldn't tell from their parts manual the difference between the rims, and they ordered a non-SHO 19" rim for $400 whereas there was another model rim (that looks identical to me too) for $800. Not sure if the difference can be seen or not. I'll have to run it through a good wash and compare. I'm glad to have her back.
  3. Shobiz Gallery

    Shobiz pics
  4. Last summer I installed "R1 Concepts CEDS11352 Eline Series Cross-Drilled Slotted Rotors And Ceramic Pads Kit - Front and Rear" for $300. They look beautiful! When I first installed the kit, I was worried because they were stopping like crap, even after following the break in instructions. After a couple weeks of driving though, they've seated in nicely and my SHO stops like nobodys business now! The are a bit noisy under hard stopping, but they WILL bite hard. I've had to adjust my braking to compensate. It's been about eight months since I installed them, and they still look very nice. There's a tiny bit of rust starting to appear on the rotors, but I'm surprised they lasted this long. Overall I'm pretty happy with the purchase.
  5. Peeling chrome tail lights was a MAJOR issue from 2010-2012. AFAIK they were never fixed properly. I had all mine replaced once, but the second time they wouldn't cover it. I'll have to look at the SEL lights and see what those'll look like, or paint my own.
  6. yep, got the same thing when I switched out mine. No filter anymore, just the shield. Way overpriced pieces, too.
  7. Twice when I had my PTU worked on, the Ford mechanic didn't properly reconnect the connector to the drive train that signals the power to go to the back end, and I ended up just spinning the front wheels all the time--back end wasn't engaging at all. I had to get the mechanic to ride with me for them to accept that something was wrong. When it's working properly, I don't get any noticeable torque steer.
  8. My 2011 has about 85k miles now. Here's what's been fixed/replaced since I've had it (I bought it with about 26k miles). PTU repaired three times under warranty. Seems really good now. Glove compartment latch replaced. Rear sunshade motor replaced. Front seat heaters don't seem to get very warm any more. Otherwise, no issues. Runs great!
  9. So today I replaced my rear power sun shade motor. I couldn't find any resources on the internet that explained how to do it, so now that I've done it I decided to do a quick write up in case anybody else has the same problem. My symptoms were that any time the rear shade went down, it would bounce against the base of the shade unit for about ten seconds and make a loud banging noise. It would go up fine though. Ford mechanics said the sensor is inside the motor and not serviceable. Ford wanted $800+ for the shade assembly, plus labor to repair it. It is possible to buy the motor separately though. I bought a replacement online for about $80. I'll add pictures later, but here is the basic run down: Remove the rear seat by pushing a little release lever at the bottom front of the seat and pull up the front. There is one latch on each side. Next, push the seat backwards on each side until they come loose from the loop anchor, and then lift the back of the seat up. Disconnect any wires (there were two smaller ones, one per side, then one large one on the passenger side in my car, which has heated seats). Remove from car. Remove the seat backs by removing the four hinge-anchor nuts (15mm). Lift the driver side out first by pulling up the right side, then sliding out the door. It is held by only a pin on the left side and slides right out. Remove the passenger rear seat back next. When removing the larger seat back, pull the center seat belt around the right hand side to release it. Once the seats are out, there are two large plastic oval cover-inserts where the seat bottom was. Be careful putting weight on those, as they will pop through and you'll have to reinstall them. They do not need to be removed...just a warning. Remove the driver and passenger rear bolsters: Pull the bolster toward the center of the car about 2 inches, then pull down and forward. Remove the driver and passenger rear c-pillar trim pieces. There is one 7mm bolt that needs to be removed from each. Carefully pry the piece inward starting where the bolt was, then reach behind the piece and pop out each section carefully until all the way toward the rear window. Remove the three plastic trim holders/pins from the front of the rear deck carpet piece. These may break. Carefully pull the rear deck piece forward about one or two inches. The three seatbelt trim pieces are split at the bottoms, and the seat belts can be pulled through the split and downward through the splits in the deck piece. Reach under the deck to carefully support and lift the deck piece over the sun shade assembly and speakers. There are rubber supports that need to be carefully guided over the shade bars as you pull the piece out. Remove the deck from the car. Whether you purchased the whole shade assembly or just the motor, you will need to remove the whole assembly in both cases. Remove the four bolts holding the assembly front section (10mm). Next, remove the two 10mm bolts in the back. These will be more difficult as there is very little space between the deck and rear window. I used a 1/4" 10mm deep socket with a very flat ratchet. You may have some luck with a universal joint. Disconnect the electrical connector from the front of the assembly--it is easy to get to. Carefully lift the shade up and pull forward until it is out of the car. If replacing just the motor, you'll need to cut the cable ties that hold the wire to the motor. Next, use a very flat screw driver to remove the post-clips from the motor arm assembly. It's ok if you break them; the new motor comes with replacement clips and washers. Remove the four screws holding the motor to the assembly. Remove the old nuts and transfer them to the new motor. Remount the new motor to the assembly. Run the wire and connect to the coupler. Secure the wire with new cable ties. Connect the new motor arms to the arm posts. Put on the new washers, then put the new post clips on. Use a 10mm socket and tap the clips on to the posts until secure. REASSEMBLY: if the shade is up, leave it up and put the shade assembly back in the car. Loosely secure the four front bolts and reconnect the connector. Turn on the accessory power to the car, and press the button so that the shade goes down all the way. Install the two rear bolts, and then tighten all six bolts. Assembly is now the reverse of the removal process. When installing the rear deck, carefully guide the rubber supports over the speakers and shade-bars. There are two foam posts that are loosely attached in the back deck that may slide out; be sure to reinstall them if they do. When installing the large seat back, don't forget to wrap the center belt around the front before sitting the seat on the anchor bolts. I'd say the whole process will take you around two hours to complete. I was pleasantly surprised at how many anti-vibration cushions and supports there were on all the pieces. This is pretty much the same procedure you'd have to take if you wanted to work on the rear deck speakers or rear window defroster. I'm not sure what the two oval inserts beneath the seat supports are for, but they look to be access panels to something; maybe the fuel pump?
  10. At 35k miles I had Ford replace all the tail lights due to the chrome-peeling issue. My car now has just over 50k miles and the replacement lights have peeled also. I have the Ford extended warranty (bumper to bumper, full warranty) that I paid $2k for that's in effect until 75k miles, but Ford says peeling tail lights are cosmetic and are not covered by the extended b-to-b warranty. I've taken it to two dealers so far, and they both say the same thing. Since you have to replace the ENTIRE tail-light assemblies to fix this "cosmetic" issue, which is pretty expensive, is there some recourse I can take? I know this is a very common issue and is certainly a manufacturer material defect, so it seems as consumers we should have some recourse for this, right?
  11. Probably about 14 months after the PTU had been repaired, it was leaking again. I think it's been going on for a while because the last time I had the car in, I told them it smelled like burning oil but they said they couldn't find anything. It was discovered during an oil-change when the tech pulled the cover and could see that PTU fluid was leaking onto the exhaust pipes, so that's where the smell was coming from. Plus something happened that people may find interesting, and that is that when they fixed it and I picked the car up, I realized that when I punched it that the front end would start hopping, front tires spinning and I had to fight some massive torque steer. It happened every time I punched it, so I immediately took the car back and had the service manager ride with me. I punched it, and he said "Whoa, yeah, that's not right. It shouldn't be hopping and spinning like that." So they figured out that during the PTU seals repair, they did not seat a cable fully into a receptacle so no power was going to the rear end--so essentially I had an overpowered FWD car for a little bit. I have seen some forums where people were wondering how power is managed to the rear wheels, so this might be a clue--whatever cable didn't get plugged in is responsible for "activating" the rear-end so that it gets power. Another thing that concerns me is that this is twice now that the PTU seals have failed, and apparently this is a common problem. I drive the car spiritedly, but I don't race it. I've read that the fluid has a tendency to fail in the PTU (due to heat from what I understand), and somehow the PTU seals fail and start leaking then. I know the Police Intercepters have a cooler on the PTU and a sensor to detect if the fluid has been exposed to an over-temp condition. Ford says our PTUs are life-time sealed, but I've gathered that some people like to change the fluid at 15-30k intervals and even go as far as putting in a drain plug. I'm wondering if I should start changing the fluid and install a drain plug? Has anybody done this?
  12. Just as a record in case other people have the same issues: Just had to have my PTU repaired because it was leaking oil (I think they replaced a gasket on it). Also had a motor in the driver's side mirror replaced as the mirror would be pointing toward the ground two out of three times I would get back into the car. Both were covered under my extended Ford factory warranty ($100 deductible). I've been smelling burnt oil in the cabin, which I think is related to the PTU leaking. Also, the front alignment is out and both front tires have worn out just on the insides of the tires, whereas the outside looks ok. So I think that's the camber? Tomorrow I'll be getting a new set of four Eagle RS-As installed. I Believe the tires were new when I bought the car at 25k, so that means I got about 24k out of these tires. I'm kind of mad about it since Ford had re-aligned the car less than six months ago. I had the tail lights replaced under warranty for peeling chrome about five months ago. I think I posted here before when the front driver-side wheel bearing was replaced about 5k ago. Outside of the tires, everything has been covered under warranty. The car is running very well though (although sometimes is seems to shift weird under hard acceleration, like it suddenly revs like it was in neutral then catches). Still crazy fast.
  13. I did get the ESP to 100,000k miles, but I'm concerned that it doesn't cover as well as the original factory 36k warranty?