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SHOdded

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SHOdded last won the day on September 5

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About SHOdded

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core_pfieldgroups_99

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    Maryland
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    Cars, Stamps, Gardening, Photography
  1. Same as with any other car really, service records, particularly fluid changes - oil, trans, ptu/rdu, coolant, etc. Then turbo-related stuff - is there pooling oil anywhere in the piping, are pipes cracked at the clamp areas, etc. Pull the pipes off the turbos to inspect the turbos closely for pooling oil, damage to the impellers, etc. Check struts and shocks for leaking fluid, tie rod ends, control arms and hubs for wear. If tires are worn, they will need to be replaced soon. Any codes stored in the PCM. If a P1000 is present, you should check again once the P1000 resolves. Hard to tell if the car is tuned or stock/ever been tuned. Check battery for CCAs. Suggest getting an AGM battery with high CCAs, toughmax 850 for example. Sunroof drains should flow freely. Sunshade should work properly. Do not buy without having a warranty in hand, whether it is CPO, powertrain, etc. Electronics are expensive, and won't be covered by powertrain, so something to keep in mind.
  2. The F150 ecoboost engine is specific to the longitudinal layout, with some differences in internal componentry including crankshaft and connecting rods. Turbos are different/bigger. The water pump is also mounted externally. This causes fitment issues in the transverse layout, in addition to programming required to work in the transverse layout. Transmissions are different, tho you might be able to get it to work as is, or need adapter plates, IDK.
  3. SHO parts for sale!

    Is the tuner unlocked? You might also want to post on shoforum.com and ecoboostperformance.com, as well as the https://www.taurusclub.com/ website for greater visibility if you do not get results.
  4. SHO water pumps

    Looks like you have things well under control now. The only change I would advise would be to go to full synthetic oil, ecoboost engines really do thrive on it. Something like Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum, RP HPS, Redline would be top choices. Pennzoil is relatively inexpensive for the protection it provides.
  5. Sometimes it is the strut mount/bearing and or the bolts that hold it in place are not properly tightened down. I would rotate the tires, see if the noise moves with it. Maybe the wheel is cracked/unbalanced. Did you use OEM /Motorcraft bearings, or SKF, Timken ...? Other aftermarket brands are often cheaply designed and fail quickly. Did you replace the right bearing or the left bearing?
  6. I believe this is the sunshade motor required https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-adjust-motor-bg1z15790a/
  7. Code p0457

    The EVAP purge valve is generally the goto faulty devices with the P045X codes, tho is SOMEtimes turns out to be the canister/vent solenoid. Not sure what year your ride is, but you will want to search using your VIN to make sure you get the right purge valve off a dealer site.
  8. Looking for advice

    If you want a stable, no headaches tune, go with Livernois. There are always some minor tweaks that will come up, but nothing that requires extensive testing/dangerous situations on/for your SHO. If you go with SCT, there are a few recommended tuners you can work with, choice really being how involved you want to get with the tuning.
  9. New to Forum, New to EcoBoost

    Welcome!
  10. Hello

    Welcome!
  11. SHO water pumps

    What is the maintenance history on your SHO? Have you been waiting till the Ford recommended initial service interval for the coolant? How much longer do you anticipate keeping the SHO? Due to the internal WP design, it is important to change out coolant frequently as a precautionary measure, as well as use a quality full synthetic low volatility engine oil to help prevent issues with the timing system (chain slack/rattle, VCT solenoid sticking, etc). The engine in the SHO is a VCT system, not a Ti-VCT system, so it has only one set of teeth driving the WP. I believe that also contributes to the wobble that then leads to bearing failure. Seal failure is more of a "tired" coolant issue, as additives do wear down with time. If you would like to keep the SHO for some time, as I certainly would, consider it preventive maintenance to replace the water pump, chains, tensioners, guides, maybe even the phasers, and definitely the solenoids. Don't just have the WP done. New belts of course, and belt tensioner too. The oil pump rarely fails on these engines, but your mechanic can take a look. The oil pump part is pretty cheap, as the WP, in the scheme of things. At the very least, completely flush out the coolant, use OEM/motorcraft coolant (I think orange?) to replace. Send old coolant out for testing at a lab like blackstone to confirm that the engine has no issues at this point. You could choose to use the Heavy Duty coolants that are meant to be in place for up to a million miles, but I know of only 1 person doing this and it is on a naturally aspirated 3.5, not the GTDI version. That's my 2 cents HTH.
  12. Newbie

    Welcome, larshep, congrats on the new ride!
  13. hesitation issue

    Possibly the PTU http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=172664 or the TSS/OSS sensors, among other options.
  14. The only transmission "mod" currently commercially available is the Sonnax ZIP kit for the 6F50/6F55 transmissions.
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