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Everything posted by SHO Rod

  1. About 3 years ago I sold my 2011 SHO since in the 5 years I owned it I only put 15k miles on it. In the time I owned it I think I put more miles on my polishing cloth than I did on the car, and it was tying up valuable garage space. Well, I've somewhat regretted selling it ever since and just found an excuse to get a daily driver. I'm considering a 2013 MKS EcoBoost at a local dealer that is asking a good price for a 57k mile car. The car has a drop-in K&N filter and slotted and drilled brake rotors so I'm wondering if there's a chance the previous owner was an enthusiast and might be on this forum. The CarFax shows that the car was most recently in Schaumburg, IL. It's black with brown leather and seems to be pretty well loaded. If the previous owner happens to see this post, I'd love to touch base with them to find out if there is anything known to be wrong with the car. -Rod
  2. The auto-dimming mirrors are relatively fragile, so if your mirror has been smacked, even with the break-away feature, the seal between the LCD layer and the mirror may have been compromised, leading to darkening. When I've seen this happen on my wife's car, it's been mostly a darkening with a bit of yellowing mixed in, but when she smacks here mirror, she smacks it good. You don't mention what year your SHO is, and I'm not sure it makes a difference, but if I recall my 2011 correctly, turning off the dimming feature of the rearview mirror also turns off the dimming feature of the side mirror. You might try turning off your dimming feature to see if that causes the yellowing to go away as well. If not, there's a good chance the seal of your mirror glass has failed. I should also add that, through the process of replacing side mirrors on my wife's car, I found that even snapping the mirror back on the motor can cause enough of an impact to break the seal. -Rod
  3. Center console

    I'm not sure that is matters, but what year is your SHO? Is it the cover for the cup holder that broke? -Rod
  4. I'm completely guessing here as to if this will apply to the SHO, but a lot of other makes and models of vehicles suggest removing the wheel well liner to access their HID bulbs. You might explore that option. Typically if you have a jack and jack stand, getting the liner out is not too bad of a job. Wear safety glasses as there could be a lot of dust and sand on the back side of the liner. -Rod
  5. FOB Battery Dead

    The slot is for the fob (or fob with key), not for the mechanical key blade. The mechanical key blade can be used to unlock the driver's door but is not required for starting the car. -Rod
  6. The owner's manual for my 2011 SHO specifies 5.5 qts. -Rod
  7. How long did you wait to check level after pouring the oil in and letting the engine run for a few seconds? -Rod
  8. Are you sure it's the remote start solenoid that is clicking when braking and not the shift interlock solenoid that is clicking when braking? Is the starter motor engaging? I'm guessing not since you also stated that the system is working fine. -Rod
  9. I had the same thing happen last fall on my 2011 with the PP. I discovered it because one time started to loose air and it was at a fast enough rate I could hear it. I pulled the tire and found multiple cracks just like you found. I checked an all four tires had the same issue, only on the inside sidewall. My tires had less than 13k miles on them (original to the car). I do not drive the SHO in the winter and my heated garage never gets below 45 degrees F all winter. I replaced the F1s with a set of General G-Max tires and they grip fine on the dry pavement and are tons better than the Supercar tires on wet. -Rod
  10. Now that it's getting colder here, I noticed while riding in my wife's 2010 MKT that there is no heat on the passenger side coming from the vents. The driver's side works fine. I connected my scan tool and there's code B1082, Right Temp Damper Door stored and also active. I then went in to the datastream for the HVAC and compared the left and right hands. The position data changed for the left side while adjusting the temp setting knob, but the RH remained at 0 regardless of the setting of the knob. I decided I'd compare the operation against my 2011 SHO only to learn that my SHO does not provide heat on the passenger side either, has the same diagnostic code, and same readings in datastream. My SHO is out of warranty so I pulled out the service manual and noticed that I just need to open the glove box door fully (like changing the cabin filter), remove two screws and a couple of electrical connectors, then install the new $25 part. I thought for $25 it's not worth making an appointment with the dealer for my wife's MKT (hers is still under warranty) but then checked the procedure for the MKT. The manual for the MKT says the instrument panel upper section needs to be removed, and to remove that, the center trim panels need to be removed, the steering wheel needs to come off, etc. It seems odd to me that that much work needs to happen on the MKT when it's so easy on the relatively similar SHO. All that background just for me to get to my question. Has anyone changed the blend door actuator on an MKT that knows if there's a shortcut to taking the instrument panel upper section out? -Rod
  11. I ended up replacing the actuator by myself. The part cost at the dealer was $22 versus the $25 for a Dorman part from the chain auto parts store. Replacing the actuator in the MKT is not easy (even more difficult than in my 2011 SHO) but it can be done without removing the instrument cluster. The trick for me was having a low profile right angle 1/4" screwdriver head. A thumbwheel socket wrench is useful too. I replaced the actuator last year just before Thanksgiving and the heat has not been a problem since. -Rod
  12. I suspect at a minimum the rear window motor assemblies would need to be switched out and dedicated power run to the motors. The rear switches would need to be switched out to allow the rear doors to activate the auto feature. The logic for the auto down is done in the motor assembly. -Rod
  13. You guys are lucky! Me, not so much. My wife broke the driver's side mirror on her MKT today (for the 4th time!) so I had a need to pull the door panel off. Yeah, this has become such a trend that I keep a spare mirror on hand. Anyway, part of pulling the door panel off means removing the power window switch. Guess what! The MKT also has auto windows for all four doors (like the MKS). So I decided to see if it would fit my SHO. I pulled the window switch assembly from my SHO and the MKT switch assembly plugged right in, no problem! However, when trying the windows, the front two work perfectly fine, as expected. The rear door windows will only roll down or up when the switch is pressed to the first detent. Pressing the switch fully causes the rear windows to clunk (like a stalled electric motor) and just wiggle. So, to answer the curiosity above, getting an MKS window switch assembly by itself will not enable auto windows for all four doors of the SHO. There's more to it. -Rod
  14. When I printed the section to PDFs just now I noticed an extra sheet for the Taurus diagrams. The passenger side window wiring seems to be different for the SHO and Limited versus the SL and SEL. Apparently the SL and SEL get passenger auto down, but not Global Open for the passenger side. There's only one diagram for the driver's door which shows the Global Open and Auto feature for both front windows, but the switch and motor assembly for the passenger door on the SL and SEL look just like the switch and motor for the rear doors. I don't quite see how that would possibly work, but if that's accurate, then you might be able to get by with just replacing the driver's door switch. If I get some free time tonight I'll need to print these out and review them again, or if anyone else wants to study them, let me know with a Private Message as mentioned in the prior post. -Rod
  15. Sorry for not following up last night. I ended up trying (and failing) to get a broken bolt drilled out on my Escalade last night so no computer time for me. I looked at the wiring diagrams for the 2011 SHO versus the 2011 MKS for the power windows. The logic for the window auto feature is controlled within the power window motor assembly. There would be no changes required to the Smart Junction Box (SJB - not a Driver's Door Module like I suspected) unless you wanted to include the rear windows in the Global Open feature, which apparently the MKS does. You would need to change both rear window motor assemblies and both rear door window switches. I didn't go so far as to see if the connectors for the Taurus rear window switch is the same as the MKS connector. Additionally, you'd need to run another power and ground to each of the rear window motor assemblies. The auto feature for the windows works by sending power to the Up or Down wire to the motor assembly on the first detent of the switch. The second detent then also sends power to the opposite direction wire. The window motor assembly then uses internal logic and the dedicated power and ground to roll the window all the way up or all the way down. In the Taurus, the rear window switch has a relay internal to it to reverse the polarity to the 2 wire motor assembly. That would be bad news if you had the MKS motor assemblies which is why you would need to swap out those switches as well. If anyone is interested in the PDFs of these two systems, send me a Private Message and include the specific request AND an e-mail address. The above is my interpretation of the wiring diagram and not guaranteed to be 100% accurate (although my confidence is high). -Rod
  16. I'll check the service manual tonight. I don't believe the logic for the auto feature is in the switch assembly but rather in the Driver Door Module. The switch has the second detent for the auto feature, but that doesn't, by itself, implement the feature. -Rod
  17. The "chrome" trim appears to have been installed by either a vapor deposition or hydrographics process and is VERY thin. The chrome flakes off, or in the case of my car, slides off when drying my car following a wash. -Rod
  18. The driver's outer taillight started to flake last night when I washed the car. My car is a 2011 with 12k miles on it, washed religiously. I hope this will give me the motivation I need to get the LED taillights wired up and installed.... -Rod
  19. Torque PIDs for Taurus

    That's good information, thank you for your time on this! -Rod
  20. The earlier thread on this subject was getting a bit long. Now that I'm actually making some progress, I thought I'd start a new thread as sort of a "How To" on the subject. The first step is to acquire the LED kit from exLEDShop. I ordered a second complete set of tail lights from a popular auction site so that I didn't need to decommission my SHO while figuring out how to make these work. These tail lights appear to be resistance welded together rather than glued, baking them will not allow you to separate the lens from the housing. I found that an oscillating multi-tool with a cutter bit worked very well. I cut around the outer perimeter of the black foam weather stripping. You may need to use a couple of flat blade screw drivers to separate the lens from the housing. Don't force the lens, it will crack. If a bit of prying doesn't work, then you need to do more cutting. Be careful not to cut so deep though that you hit the lens. You will not need to cut out the are that fit's behind the chrome trip for the trunk lid lights, that will pop apart when the rest of the lens is loose. Now you'll want to start laying out the pieces to make sure you know what goes where. Also, lay out the white diffuser on the inside of the lens. This may require some trimming to make it fit nicely. For the trunk lid lights, there are two assemblies that fit in the recessed portions of the housing and two "J" strips that get sandwiched between the lens and the housing. The lower recessed portion, that does not normally have a bulb, does have a little vent hole covered by a sticker. Remove the sticker and route the wires for this LED board through that hole. I used Automotive GOOP to attach the board to the reflector. For the upper recessed portion, I positioned the board such that it was aimed to the rear of the assembly, not necessarily square with the recessed area's walls. This left enough space behind the board to mount the relay. The relay is what switches between amber (for turn signals) and white, so if you have the car in reverse and you have a turn signal or hazard lights on, the white and amber LEDs will alternate. For this approach, there was WAY too much wire between the board and the relay, so I shortened the wires to only a few inches. With the relay attached to the side of reflector with Automotive GOOP, I positioned LED board and attached it with GOOP. -----End of Part 1-----
  21. Removing Seat Cover?

    I may be able to pull this info from the factory service manual. What year is your SHO? Send me a Private Message with the request and an e-mail address for you and I'll send you a PDF of the the relevant section in the service manual. -Rod
  22. I've seen a couple of times now from the contents page that it appears there are follow-up posts to this thread from other posters but every time I check, the latest post I can see is post #15. So if there are newer posts, I'm not ignoring them intentionally. -Rod
  23. Not done, per se. I have all the lights modified and plastic welded back together, and I have connectors installed for each of the assemblies. That's as far as I've gotten though. Work has been keeping me crazy busy and when I'm not working, it seems I'm doing stuff with the family. Before I install these lights I want to paint the chrome with black (haven't decided on Plasti-Dip or black and clear automotive paint) since the chrome is flaking in a few places. I now wish I had just bought standard assemblies rather than holding out and paying extra for flaking chrome ones on the popular auction site. -Rod