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I Love my new K&N Typhoon..


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Yes, the K&N Kit draws cooler air from the fender..filter was cool to the touch even with the hood shut for 25 min on that 61 degree day wee had lastweek.And yea..check or get a big funnel and change your atf..lol! My hand fit in there no problem.Plus I belive your filter will stay cleaner too.This kit is Awsome!!

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Yup, it dumps the air from the factory right into the filter in addition to the cool air from the fenderwell.

 

I'm very impressed with this kit. Even more so that I paid $213 shipped.

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Silencer??? Not sure if I follow you' date=' are you sure you don't me sound amplifier? To my knowledge we don't have one, could you post a pic of?[/quote']

 

Middle left side of the pic right before the throttle body. The little elbow that sticks out(i think Bpd posted some pics of people that replaced it with BOV)[ATTACH=CONFIG]1655[/ATTACH]

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That almost 90 degree elbow, flaring off from the intake tube, just before the throttle body is NOT a factory BOV.

 

It is what is referred as a 'Sound Generator'. Basically it's only function from what I understand is to direct, or shuttle noise towards the passenger compartment.

 

The images I previously posted were simply what other owners have done and that's to install what amounts to a 3rd BOV in that location, to merely replace the OEM 'Sound Generator'.

 

Our factory BOV's Are electronically controlled, and are both located more towards the back side of the engine, closer to the firewall.

 

Hope that clears up any confusion.

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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I'm not sure I'm seeing the benefit of the intake in it's entirety because it still connects to much smaller factory tubing that in turn eventually arrives at the turbos...I understand the ability to get colder air, but with that smaller restrictive tubing still in the way, I'm not sure we can suck in the volume of air that we would potentially need if there were a viable turbo replacement option in the future...I'm wondering if LMS or the like has looked into a more direct intake tubing path to the turbos for more air volume?

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I'm not sure I'm seeing the benefit of the intake in it's entirety because it still connects to much smaller factory tubing that in turn eventually arrives at the turbos...I understand the ability to get colder air' date=' but with that smaller restrictive tubing still in the way, I'm not sure we can suck in the volume of air that we would potentially need if there were a viable turbo replacement option in the future...I'm wondering if LMS or the like has looked into a more direct intake tubing path to the turbos for more air volume?[/quote']

 

I'm with you there. I don't believe the stock airbox is a restrction with those pieces in place and cool air doesnt mean diddly do to any intercooled turbo vehicle I have ever tuned other than if you sit in traffic a heat soak the crap out of it.

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Are we sure the sound generator thingy is not a BOV? With a tune I can really hear a whistle pfff in Drive giving it some gas and letting off. Much much more pronounced now with a tune. I never heard this before the tune.

 

No, the sound generator is just that. The blow off valves (there are two) "recirc valves", are over on the other end of the motor, on the turbo inlet pipes.

 

Here they are.

 

This one for the front turbo

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1703[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

This one for the rear turbo

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1704[/ATTACH]

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With the higer boost pressures, the blowoff sound should be more pronounced...it's never going to be as loud as a bov that vents to the atmosphere though...when I had my procharged 99 cobra I replaced the bypass valve with a type R greddy BOV and the sound was ridiculous...it sounded like air brakes on a semi between shifts on hard pulls...lol

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  • 3 weeks later...

How are some of you getting up to 18 psi of boost?? I'm tuned, down pipes, exhaust, CAI and can't break past 8 psi. Maybe it's in the tune I guess. I'm running stage 3 with 91 octane...Oh, and I have several S&B filters that I believe would fit the K&N piping. I'll post some pics soon. (if I can get it post pics right, had issues before).

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Just talked to Rick by email on that very question. I'm running 4+ and I told him I was setting up a new boost gauge (Torque) and wanted to confirm readings to make sure I had it set up right. Told him I was reading between 11 and 12 lbs. at WOT and he said that was exactly what I should be reading. Earlier when I was reading between 6 and 8 lbs. turns out I was not set up right. I had the wrong default signal (should have been MAP) and the offset should have been 0. Now with correct set up I'm at 11 to 12 lbs. Maybe LMS sets up the canned boost more conservatively and if you have them tweak on the dyno they might crank up the boost a bit higher.... just guessing.

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How are some of you getting up to 18 psi of boost?? I'm tuned' date=' down pipes, exhaust, CAI and can't break past 8 psi. Maybe it's in the tune I guess. I'm running stage 3 with 91 octane.[/quote']

 

You should be in the 12-14 psi range.

Most boost gauges auto calibrate when power is applied, so the circuit should not be fluctuating with the starter or you will get incorrect readings. You can check the power circuit with a test light or volt meter to make sure that the voltage is a steady 12V. Another member with a 2010 used fuse location 46 (occupant classification sensor OCS and passenger airbag deactivation) for power.

Also vacuum line pickup may be an issue. On the 2013 there is a hard plastic line that runs from the intake manifold to a rubber hose for the brake booster, I tied into the rubber hose before the check valves.

With a 93 tune I get a solid 15psi on full load acceleration.

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This boost discussion is interesting. I wonder if there is a wide variation in boost levels from car to car when stock. Before purchasing my tunes, I specifically asked about the boost on the various tune stages (on 2010-2012 models). Here is the answer that I was given:

 

They make 12 lbs. stock and 13.5-14 lbs. with the stage 2 and stage 3 tunes and 14.5-15 lbs. with the stage 4.

 

I was also told that the changes for 91 vs 93 octane was only in timing - not boost - that there is a 2 degree further advance with 93. Again, I am speaking ONLY of the 2010-2012 models.

 

I do not have a boost gauge but the maximum of 12 PSI stock is what Ford has indicated in their data and what mags like Motor Trend or C & D show in their specs.

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Makes it tough to figure things out doesn't it. I wonder why Rick would tell me that 11 to 12 lbs. running Stage 4+ was right where I should be. From every thing I'm reading, I'm now thinking I need to dial in the Torque app. I think I'm going to add a positive value of 3 to my boost setback to bring me from 11/12 to a corrected boost of from 14/15 lbs.

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I know Rick is swamped with travel but maybe he can clear some of this up for us when he returns. Many reliable sources will confirm the maximum 12 PSI stock. I have no way to confirm what the boost was on mine when stock or what it is now. The italics in my post above is a cut & paste from an email that I saved. The numbers make sense based on the performance improvement that all of us with the tunes can feel and what many have documented at the track.

 

Question: When we load a tune file, are we adding boost and advancing timing from what we already have? Or, are we basically erasing what is already there and replacing it with the new parameters? In other words, if Larry and I both have 2010 models with LMS 4+ and we both run the required 93 octane fuel, is it a safe bet that we both have the same maximum boost and timing advance?

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If an ECU works like numerous other devices with "firmware", then there are 2 things that can be going on.

 

1. The Mycal/SCT/tuner is flashing new firmware (with the changed code/parameters) and replacing the old firmware (after saving out the old).

2. The ECU operates like a PC motherboard, where you can pull up the "CMOS" and edit parameters and then save the changes back to that volatile memory. I suspect that this is not the case though, because even if you lose battery power, you still don't lose your tune, so #1 is more likely. Then again, it could be a combination of both.

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I'll have to check the car out tomorrow. I've watched it and had my wife watch the gauge. Even going up the mountains and floored it never goes past 8 psi on the gauge. And to tell you guys the truth, it doesn't have the ass I was expecting it to have. The shifting has gotten better and feels great, but power wise I'm disappointed in it. I'm gonna look into what Leadfoot suggested and go from there.

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  • 1 month later...

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