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mjhpadi

Swirls And Scratches

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Hopefully I am posting this in the correct section. But recently I noticed some swirl marks on the hood of my car. These swirl marks are very light and most people would not even notice them. I have not had a chance to work on the car for a few weeks but this brings up a detailing question. I do have Adam's Polish Haze and Swirl Remover that I use with my PC but I would love to hear from others what products they use or recommend to reduce light swirl marks and/or light scratches.

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Adams swirl and haze remover will fill in small swirl marks. Yes fill in it will not remove them. If you want to remove them than you need a paint correction kit. http://www.chemicalguys.com/Paint_Correction_Polishes_Scratch_removers_s/144.htm has what you need. Grotts garage has a kit I think Use it with the PC buffer. I use a micro fiber mitt to wash mine then I blow dry the car Use a leaf blower works great. The less rubbing you do on the car the less scratches you will have. I gig this to my GT500 took about 35 hours to do the whole car. Tioy need to watch the videos to do this right. Tape off the edges of hood doors and most of all any chrome and plastic parts. Dont get this on the glass ether it will scratch them to.

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I use Wolfgang products from Autogeek.net. First I would use a clay bar to remove all the contaminants. This will not only clean your finish, but it will also remove any existing wax to allow you to start from scratch (no pun intended). Do the plastic bag test where you clay bar a small section, then rub your fingers over the surface with a plastic bag over your hand (the plastic bag keeps oils from your hand from transferring onto the surface). You will really feel the difference. Using the clay bar will help water bead on the surface of your finish and make it easier to remove dirt when you wash it.

 

Then I would apply the swirl remover, and then the glaze. I use a light cutting foam pads for both. It is finished with a paint sealant. You might prefer a carnauba wax, which is cheaper, but the sealant will last longer. The Wolfgang products are not cheap, but they are worth it. All four stages of solvents will run you about $120 total.

 

Your finish is probably getting scratched when you wash your car. The two bucket wash process with a grit guard will minimize scratches when you wash your car causing the spider webbing which you are talking about. The two bucket process basically keeps you soapy water clean by rinsing your washing mitt in a separate bucket of clean water. The grit guard allows you to rub your mitt loosening dirt from the mitt and prohibits the existing dirt to be transferred back onto the mitt.

 

Picking the correct polisher is also key to a perfect finish. Definitely select a dual action polisher to start with. This will minimize the chances of damaging your finish. They not only will spin, but they oscillate back and forth reducing the chances of adding swirl marks to your finish. I purchased a Cyclo Orbital Polisher, which has two 4” pads instead of one single large pad. It is a little pricey. It will run you a little over $300 for the polisher and pads, but you can’t damage your finish with the Cyclo, no matter how bad you screw up. I also have a 3” Griot’s Garage polisher that I use on the A, B, and C pillars along with other tight places where the Cyclo won’t go.

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I'm generally not a fan of Meguier's products, but I've been impressed by the results from using their #9 Swirl Remover. The first time I used that was on my former solid black G35. After buffing out a door ding with 3M foam pad polishing compound I was left with an area that almost looked grey in direct, bright sunlight. I used a foam pad (I don't recall which color) with the #9 and it removed all evidence of swirls.

 

I recently acquired a solid black 2004 Lincoln Aviator as my winter and tow vehicle and noticed it had a bunch of swirls as well. Again, out came the foam pad, DW849 buffer, and the #9. I first tried some Wolfgang swirl remover and didn't see really any improvement, but the #9 did the trick. I next stepped up in foam pad (softer) and used some Meguier's polish that I wanted to get rid of, and topped with some Collinite 845 applied by hand. All buffing of the haze after application of products was done by hand with microfiber cloths.

 

After the hail damage was repaired on my Tuxedo SHO I used the #9 by hand on a foam applicator and it took the fine swirls out where the repairs had been "buffed".

 

-Rod

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Just ordered a Wolfgang Duo kit from Autogeek. It consists of Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, a CCS light cutting pad 5.5", and a microfiber towel. I will give this a try and let you know the results. I haven't used any Wolfgang products before, but look forward to trying them.

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Just ordered a Wolfgang Duo kit from Autogeek. It consists of Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0' date=' Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, a CCS light cutting pad 5.5", and a microfiber towel. I will give this a try and let you know the results. I haven't used any Wolfgang products before, but look forward to trying them.[/quote']

 

Autogeek has a lot of good information on their site on how to use the products successfully. I strongly recommend reading the article and viewing the video on the washing process. You'd be surprised to learn that you might be applying more damage to your finish if you wash your car incorrectly. I haven't gone to the length to buy a foamer to presoak my car, but I do know that a couple of buckets, the appropriate soap, and a good mitt or sponge will make a difference.

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Just received my order from Autogeek. First impression is not very good. Checked out the microfiber towel that came with the order, and when I compared to others, it looks like a fairly inexpensive low quality "Made In China" piece! It is certainly not the quality I expected and it looks ever lower quality then the cheap "throw away" microfiber towels I have purchased at Wal-Mart. Hopefully their Wolfgang products will impress me more then they towels....

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The towels that come with the kits are traditionally a lower quality than the premium towels you purchase separately. They try to package the kit to ensure you have all the gear to apply their product properly. The value of the kit is certainly the solvents, not the towels. If you compare the the cost of a bottle sold by itself, it is obvious there is a minor cost savings. The towel is just a "throw in" item in the kit to make it complete.

 

I usually regulate these towels to activities that do not include polishing my finish. Usually they can be used on windows or tires.

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