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Imminent Rueage

Performance with Stage 3 and question about MyCal

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Alright, so I've been running Stage 3 for a while now and all is well. I have not been able to run Stage 4, as 93 octane fuel is not available in South Dakota.(although i have been told if i turn the Global Spark down i can probably get by with Stage 4, but I have yet to try it.) I also have the Airaid CAI. Now I'm just curious what kind of 0-60 times i should be seeing. It is a non-PP SHO. I am getting low 5's right now.(5.1, 5.2). Maybe I am too hopeful but i was thinking I'd be looking at closer to mid 4's or so.

 

I have done some data logging with the MyCal (in .csv format) of the following Parameters (Engine RPM, Vehicle Speed, Fuel Rail Pressure, Ignition Timing Advance (#1), Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, Intake Air Temperature, Engine Coolant Temperature, Fuel Trim Bank 1 - Long Term, and Fuel Trim Bank 2 - Long Term. I am not sure what sensors i should be monitoring to gauge any possible issues causing performance loss. If anyone wants me to upload a file to view or do a new log with different sensors, I'll gladly do so.

 

Also, concerning the MyCal device. I cannot seem to find a sensor for the Transmission Temperature. I also am uncertain how you monitor boost. Anybody else have experience with this programmer? I know a lot of you are running the SCT device.

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I can't help you on any of your questions, but thought I'd give the thread a bump in case someone can help.

 

As far as data logging, I would think if you emailed Rick he would be able to answer those.

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I've thought about this one myself but have yet to do it. As I remember the instructions say to subtract atmospheric pressure from manifold pressure. I think both of those values are available and the Mycal offers a programming capability which should let us do this. I have not explored the programing capability yet. If you succeed, please share your experience.

 

 

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Well I have figured out how to display boost, per the Owner's Manual after I took the time to read through it. It is really quite easy to do.

 

As many of you probably know, boost is calculated from the subtraction of MAP(Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure) and Barometric Pressure. Now, after knowing this, creating a calculator with the DashDaq should be easy, correct? Yes!!!

 

First you will need to add a calculator to the device list. To do this open up the Main Menu and Navigate to [setup] --> [Devices] --> [Manager]. Select the first "UNUSED" row and tap [Add Device]. Tap on the appropriate driver(In this case choose the "Rescale Signal Calculator" and click [install]. When asked which port to use, assign it to the GenericOBD2.

 

Now that the Calculator has been added to the Device list, we need to assign values to some of the parameters. To do this open up the Main Menu and Navigate to [setup] --> [Devices] --> [Parameters]. From here you can use the [<] or [>] to find the newly created calculator. Once you locate the correct Calculator you will need to change the following parameters as listed below:

 

Input Signal: Manifold Absolute Pressure (From GenericOBD2)

 

Multiplier Signal: Constant Multiplier (From Rescale Signal Calculator) Note: This parameter is actually found by using the [<] and [>] to find the "Rescale from Signal Calculator". I wanted to clear this up as I was a bit confused where to find this right away after scrolling through the list of "GenericOBD2" PID's a few times with no luck.

 

Multiplier Sign: 1 (Positive)

 

Constant Multiplier: 1.0

 

Offset Signal: Barometric Pressure (From GenericOBD2)

 

Offset Sign: -1 (Negative)

 

I also assigned "Boost" to the "Name" Parameter for ease of location when adding it to a gauge.

 

Now you can also change other Parameters of the calculator to possibly enhance the accuracy of the calculator but none of this is discussed in the Manual and I have not read into it on the Drew Tech. Forum's so i cannot comment on whether or not we would benefit from any of these changes or not.

 

Well there you go. An easy way to display Boost with the MyCalibr8or(DashDaq XL) Device.

 

You can also do MANY other things with these calculators. Instant on/Average Fuel economy, Calculated HP/Torque, Adjusting Vehicle Speed for Tire Size changes, etc.

 

I have also looked into Transmission Fluid Temp PID's and a few others and it looks like you can purchase "Enhanced PID's" that are vehicle specific direct from Drew Technologies, but I am uncertain how to go about this, since these are purchased from Livernois and essentially rebranded as their own device. I don't know if they have custom firmware/software on these or if a simple update with the DashDaq Update Tool after purchasing the "Enhanced PID's" is all that is required to get these added PID's.

 

I will say though, the Ford specific list is, for lack of a better word, ridiculous. http://www.drewtech.com/enthusiast/introduction/datalist/ford.html

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Congrats on your success. I gave it a shot following your excellent instructions but I came up a bit short. I got the calculator up but ran into problems getting the parameters into the calculator. I'll try again and this time I'll wait for success before I crack open a cold one. The logic for this unit is as far away from Apple intuitive as any I've run into. Maybe it just takes an engineering mind. Thanks for the cheat sheet cause I would not have gotten as close as I did without it.

 

 

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Did you choose the correct value for the "Multiplier Signal"? I tried to make that clear in the instructions as it can be a bit confusing. That parameter is not located in the list of "GenericOBD2" PID's. You need to use the [<] and [>] arrows to the "Rescale Signal Calculator" that we created earlier and their will be 5 or 6 different parameters you can choose from in this list. You want to pick the "Constant Multiplier".

 

Again, I'm not sure if that is where you went wrong, but I hope you get it figured out. I understand where you're coming from in regards to the complex nature of this device, but after you get to using it, it all starts to make sense.(I'm a computer geek though, so I may get more enjoyment out of that kind of thing.)

 

I'm going to go out and take a look at it again just to make sure there isn't something I had done at an earlier date that might affect one of these steps you're getting confused on.

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Pretty sure I got to the constant multiplier but I do think that is where the wheels came off. I'm not sure at this point why. When I try again I'll pay more attention at that point. I can remember not being sure if after selecting a parameter, if I was supposed to hit the save button. My intuition wanted to input the two parameters with the plus and minus assigned before hitting the save.... but I think I didn't see another choice and reluctantly hit save. BTW I never saw the option to name the calculated value. If I try again I'm sure I'll go further. One of the reasons I have been slow to tackle this is that I never found a spot to mount the unit that I was crazy about. I carry it in the console in case I have to go back to stock while I'm out on the road. Happened once already. Thanks for sharing some computer geekness!!

 

 

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Ok. I did a lot better on the second try. I think it's starting to make sense. Thanks again for the excellent step by step. Not sure my boost gauge is really working till I test it out but at least I made it through all the steps and I have a BOOST gauge looking at me.

 

 

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Made a lot of progress. I added HP & TORQUE gauges and ambient temp and manifold air temp. All these work well. Boost is being stubborn. The more I mess with it the easier it gets to navigate the system... so I'm probably close on the boost. The dyno calculator is really quite cool!

Im a little surprised that I like the gauges. Before I messed with them I thought they would be gimicky. I should have tried it out sooner. I have to decide on a mounting now.

 

 

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Sorry about the delay in response. The auto-email reply on this forum has a mind of it's own when it comes to notifying me about someone responding to a subscribed thread. Just remember that your boost will be reading a negative (-) number when you are sitting in Park. I'm not sure what you are getting for a readout, but i could see where that would confuse someone if they weren't familiar with a vacuum/boost system. I really want to get Transmission Fluid Temp. readouts and also would like a Gear Position readout that tells what gear your in and if the torque converter is locked. Not only is it a handy reference, but it would really help me pinpoint the cause of these occasionally "hangs" I'm having when accelerating and decelerating at highway speeds.

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After my early enthusiasm, reality set in. Where I am right now after testing is that the only really fully successful gauge set ups I've done are ones that utilize a direct reading from OBD2 and I did two of those. The two I've tried that use a calculator .... Boost and HP/Torque from the included "dyno" calculator look like they will work but they both fail a street test. Dead gauges with no needle movement. Must be something I'm doing...or not doing but don't know what it is yet.

Have you set up and tested your Boost gauge yet??

 

I see what you mean about the ridiculous number of parameters available on that list. I'm surprised I didn't see a sensor signal for passenger weight.

Also agree that selected gear and tranny temp would be really nice things to be able to monitor.

 

 

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Yes I did that and I set the offset multiplier to -1. I'm thinking that since both calculators are not working (my custom boost and the canned dyno calculator) the mistake I made is probably not in the boost calculator. It must be somewhere else. Yet a value like manifold temp shows up and works fine so I must have a lot of it set up OK. Some good clues to help solve the puzzle.

 

 

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Alright, so I've been running Stage 3 for a while now and all is well. I have not been able to run Stage 4, as 93 octane fuel is not available in South Dakota.(although i have been told if i turn the Global Spark down i can probably get by with Stage 4, but I have yet to try it.) I also have the Airaid CAI. Now I'm just curious what kind of 0-60 times i should be seeing. It is a non-PP SHO. I am getting low 5's right now.(5.1, 5.2). Maybe I am too hopeful but i was thinking I'd be looking at closer to mid 4's or so.

 

 

 

Just getting back to this particular inquiry, I have done some testing lately. My 2010 Stock MKS (K&N drop-in filter, 93 Octane) would run 0-60 in 5.2 with pre takeoff boost (2500 RPM) consistently. Best run ever was 5.18. I feel it it was slightly faster than other MKS' I have driven, out of the box. I had that coming from the car gods, as I felt my last 2 cars were on the slow end out of the box. In any event, with LMS 4+ I got last week, same 93 Octane, I do it in 4.9-5.0 with no take off pre boost. I have not try pre-spooling yet with the 4+ tune, but guessing I might shave .1-.2 off the time at best - so maybe 4.7-4.8 with pre-spooling??? With stage 3, 93 Octane, AND prespooling, I was at 5.0 consistently. So, since your SHO should be faster than my MKS, all else being equal, I would expect you to be doing alittle better than you are (5.1-5.2). Hopefully something in all this helps.....

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A question for anyone who has gotten the boost reading working....what is your boost reading while idle? I've got mine setup but am unsure if it is working properly cause I'm reading between 17 and 20 sitting at idle.

 

Also, I did the update for the Dash DAQ from Drew Technologies and also loaded up the extra Ford specific trial which does give you some extra PID's and Tranny Temp is one of the ones it allows you to view.

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A question for anyone who has gotten the boost reading working....what is your boost reading while idle? I've got mine setup but am unsure if it is working properly cause I'm reading between 17 and 20 sitting at idle.

 

Also, I did the update for the Dash DAQ from Drew Technologies and also loaded up the extra Ford specific trial which does give you some extra PID's and Tranny Temp is one of the ones it allows you to view.

 

You should be reading 0 or a negative number depending on what your limits and gauge you chose. My guess is you don't have the bero pressure in the formula. Also, I find the needle gauge works the best for boost measurement.

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A question for anyone who has gotten the boost reading working....what is your boost reading while idle? I've got mine setup but am unsure if it is working properly cause I'm reading between 17 and 20 sitting at idle.

 

Also, I did the update for the Dash DAQ from Drew Technologies and also loaded up the extra Ford specific trial which does give you some extra PID's and Tranny Temp is one of the ones it allows you to view.

 

Something is definitely not right if you are reading any boost at idle. At idle the number will actually be negative (vacuum).

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Made a lot of progress. I added HP & TORQUE gauges and ambient temp and manifold air temp. All these work well. Boost is being stubborn. The more I mess with it the easier it gets to navigate the system... so I'm probably close on the boost. The dyno calculator is really quite cool!

Im a little surprised that I like the gauges. Before I messed with them I thought they would be gimicky. I should have tried it out sooner. I have to decide on a mounting now.

 

 

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I just the got MyCal today, how you you create the HP and TQ calculators?!?!?!

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I just the got MyCal today' date=' how you you create the HP and TQ calculators?!?!?![/quote']

 

The torque & HP readings are available from the provided "DYNO" calculator. Before it will work you must tell the calculator where to get at least one value. I think it was either the RPM or the speed on the OBD. Search for excellent instructions written up by earlier posters.

 

 

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The torque & HP readings are available from the provided "DYNO" calculator. Before it will work you must tell the calculator where to get at least one value. I think it was either the RPM or the speed on the OBD. Search for excellent instructions written up by earlier posters.

 

 

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OK, Cool.. I will take a look at that.. OK one LAST question.. Do you have to pay the 95 bucks extra and buy the Extended Features to be able to read the Transmission temp??? or is it available VIA firmware update?!!?!?

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I never paid for extra choices. Though if I had, tranny temp is one I would love to get as we'll as numbers of what gear tranny is currently in. Don't think it's worth a hundred bucks though.

 

 

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man...I can not get the boost gauge to work on this thing. I tried it when I first got it and was unsucessful. I just tried it again and nothing. I followed these steps to a tee and nothing. odd...

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