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bpd1151

Open Element PCV Mod.....

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I had a Pcv on my '68 bug. It was one of two smog devices needed. The other was an oil filled air filter. I know the '67 bug did not have one. This was just for reference.

I think you are right on with the time frame, I don't think my '67 Mustang had one, since I don't remember installing it when I got Cobra valve covers for it, but I think there was one on my '69 442.

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Just to chime in on the concept of the PCV, it's primary function is emissions.

 

From a performance standpoint, you can look at a dry sump system: the scavenging elements of the pump create a vacuum on the crankcase which aids in evacuation of water vapor, oil vapor, increases the sealing of piston rings, and since it creates a vacuum you have less turbulent effect of air fighting the rotation of the crankshaft (aka windage). A PCV doesn't do it to the same magnitude as a dry sump system, but it does help.

 

The problem with a PCV is the fact that it just goes right into the intake of your car, so all of the nasty carbon that will dirty up your oil is getting re-ingested. You may not see a big drop in HP doing back to back runs, but take all that crap over thousands of miles and you will see a difference.

 

The best thing (besides a dry sump system) would be to use a oil separator can, but you have to make sure you get one that has nice large hoses and openings to ensure proper flow out of the crankcase. You can make one, just make sure to stuff with steel wool or some sort of filtering element.

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The EB engine already has a "catch can" system for most of the PCV output. It's on the back valve cover, and the oil overflows back into the engine. I suppose one could come up with a catch can on the front, like I have on both my G8's. In those, I get an ounce of oil in the can every couple thousand miles. And... all that sticky oil would be going into the intake manifold.

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Yup, I never claimed any performance gain(s) with this mod for the record.

 

Nor am I aware of any performance losses either. Quite honestly, car feels the same under WOT when using the 'butt dyno' method.

 

My primary purpose for performing this mod was to simply eliminate any chance of any amount of oil working it's way back into the intake system.

 

I'd personally rather clean the K&N filter periodically, rather than concern myself with w/e potential damage could be being caused (on a longer term basis) by having even incremental amount(s) of oil in the intake stream.

 

Thanks for all of the comments posted thus far, it's been an interesting read needless to say.

 

Mike :yo:

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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a vacuum pump will add HP pcv will not. but it does help keep moisture out of your oil. i've run motors both with and without pcv. all out race motors use a vacuum pump to help the engine rings seal better to the block. with out a pcv i've noticed major moisture contamination in my motor. it does go away with the pcv. it also help keep your rear main seal from blowing out, very expensive by the way over a $1.98 pcv going bad...

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So I was measuring for some custom piping/air filter box and looked at the hose that you replaced with an open breather, that fitting there is not the PCV, it's the vent. I looked down the hose and it's just a baffle, no valve. The PCV hose will be attached somewhere after the throttle body. So running an open element will be fine, just watch for oil buildup on the valve cover. I may do this same thing and use a catch can on the PCV hose...if I can find it.

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Here is the provision for the PCV. It's computer controlled and goes through some filter canister that is bolted right to the valve cover. My pinky is pointed to what looks like an electronic valve that will open to the intake (the part the computer controls). It will probably not help much to put a canister inline as it already has a filter.

 

100_0159.jpg

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To stir up a dead topic... This is definitely something everyone should do. On my 5.0 I put JLT oil separators on it as soon as I purchased it. In the 25k miles that I owned it - I drained ALOT of oil of of those things. On my 99 Mustang I have been running open element breathers on both valve covers for years now.

 

I meant to do it to the SHO when it was new but I thought I would wait and see exactly how bad it got. When I changed my plugs a month ago and had the crossover pipe from the front turbo off there was a generous amount of oil already at 15k miles. Needless to say, it has a breather on it now.

 

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This thread kept popping up in my searches, so I wanted to point out that the PCV (brown connector attached to the factory vapor separator) is just an old school PCV valve and is not computer controlled. There is a rattle inside (just like an old school PCV) that moves up/down depending on vacuum, but it isn't 100% airtight. This means that during vacuum, it will flow a certain amount of air/vapor one way. During boost, it is supposed to close in theory, but it will still allow quite a bit of airflow. This would result in the vapors going from the crankcase to the fresh air intake tract in the front tube.

 

Ford Racing has oil separators for both the PCV and cleanside on the Shelby GT350 and the oil separator for the PCV on the S550 GT, so the engineers probably know of this issue. The FRPP vapor separators are just a box with a metal screen in-between the halves.

 

Here is the provision for the PCV. It's computer controlled and goes through some filter canister that is bolted right to the valve cover. My pinky is pointed to what looks like an electronic valve that will open to the intake (the part the computer controls). It will probably not help much to put a canister inline as it already has a filter.

100_0159.jpg

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