Which SHO would you choose?

[G03svt]

I need some advice, as I have narrowed down my search to two SHO's;

 

1.) 2011, Black, 10,499 miles, $29,900, 402A + PP

2.) 2010, Black, 33,614 miles, $27,000, 402A + Adapt Cruise/Colli Warning + Navigation + Multi-Contoured Seat + 20" WHL

 

I really wanted one with PP and low miles, but I'm having a hard time saying no to the second one as it is fully loaded and the PP package doesn't seem all that great on the '10-12s. Is the second one the obvious choice here for the price difference?

 

Thanks in advance.

[RedCandySHO]

If you drive a lot of highway miles, I would get #2.

[ShoBoat]

So the 11 has no Nav? hmmm..... That's a tough one, damn I'm sitting here staring at the screen and I can't make up my mind. If it was a 13 then it would be a no brainier. It all depends on your need for the other options. If you don't then I would do option #1. On the other hand you could save your self a few bucks and go with #2. Tough choice for sure!

Jeff

[G03svt]

Yeah it is a tough choice. If the first dealer would do $29,000 I'd do it, but he won't budge. I can also get the 2nd one Ford Pre-Owned Certified for an extra $695. As far as traveling, I'll be flying more then driving long distances so 'd say 8,000 miles a year or so.

[mjhpadi]

The second one sounds like my car. It stickered for like $47,532.00. Gotta admit, I would like the gear ration of the PP but other then that, there is nothing that really stands out with the PP. Anyway, I love having the navigation, and I think the ACC is GREAT! Driving a car with a regular cruise control is almost a chore after having the ACC. I believe if you could get the '10 for around 25 you should go for it. Remember car salesman have no soul, so make them a ridiculously low offer on the 10...like 23K, they should be willing to move down on the price. I've always figured that for a basically 3 year old car, you should be paying less then 50% of sticker. Good luck, I vote for the 10, let us know what you end up with.

[G03svt]

Yeah the MSRP on the '10 is $45,930 and he told me $27,000 is their absolute lowest price. They have it listed for $29,995 right now.

[BombshellSteph]

Is this place your only options for picking up a SHO? I'm going to have to agree with the guys on this one. The pricing should be able to move a lot more than they are claiming it can. As far as the two cars, it's a toss-up really and all comes down to your personal preferences really. While the comparison between the '13 PP and and previous years is just not even a debate, I chose not to go with it for mine because it's not only my mom-mobile, but I frequently drive between Massachusetts and Maryland a few times a year so the Adaptive CC was a must on it because honestly, with a kid in the car pissed at something and feeling the need to scream about it while I'm driving, fiddling around with non-adaptive CC is just as frustrating. Plus, I know that I can easily upgrade my car to get what a PP has minus the track mode option which honestly I could care less about but would rather put that care into researching mods and making the changes to get the max potential from my SHO as I can.

[mjhpadi]

Yeah the MSRP on the '10 is $45' date='930 and he told me $27,000 is their absolute lowest price. They have it listed for $29,995 right now.[/quote']

 

Just because he says 27 is their lowest price doesn't mean they won't move if you make a lower offer and then start to walk away. After many, many years of dealing with dealers, if they know you are a real buyer, it's amazing how much they will do to get a sale. My wife recently helped my son's best friend buy a new Focus, and they moved down 700 dollars after their "best" offer and she even got them to throw in an additional key...a value they claimed was about worth $200.00. Don't be afraid to be unreasonable....it's not like you are insulting their family.

[mjhpadi]

One more thought on the PP, it seems that most that got the PP package, were not overly happy with the tires. So if you go with the car that has the PP, you should plan on replacing the tires in about 10K miles, since it seems most are seeing the Goodyears wear out at about 20K miles. So it will probably be around an additional $1000.00 to replace the F1 tires. Not that the Michelin's on the non-PP are much better. Look them over very carefully, we have seen a lot of sidewall cracking occur with the Michelins (it's happening on my car and it only has 21K) so if the '10 has sidewall cracking occurring, it's another thing you can use, if they won't move off the price and the tires are cracking, make them replace the tires as part of the deal. Again, good luck.

[Night Hawk]

Non pp save yourself some cake, just imho. If the gear ratio is needed get a set of 18" rims. The oil and tranny coolers will bolt up if you really want them. Great color choice btw lol.

[Paulford8]

The 2nd one is like mine. That said the low miles on that first one are so attractive. I would get the 1st one if you can, cant go wrong either way. The PP has better springs in it if that makes a difference. If your into modding you may change them anyway.

 

Also the early 010 ones have seen some issues, namely leaking turbos. If they develop Ford has been good about replacing them though. Mine have never developed the leak BTW. Almost wish they would so I would have a good excuse to upgrade

[Leadfoot]

I'd probably go for the 10, offer them less and have them throw the CPO in for free. You get the extra warranty for peace of mind, so mileage wouldn't matter.

You're probably going to change the springs anyway. Plus you get the 20 inch wheels and other options.

Check out the build date and have them do all the TSBs.

[griggs95]

Some good advice here but this is what I think.

I'd get the one with low miles, if you can get that for 29k that's a nice deal right there! A difference of over 20k in miles is significant depending on who drove it plus you talking of only putting 8k miles a year I think you mentioned.

Navigation, who cares, every smart phone has that. And, you have much more room to drive it with the warranty protection and piece of mind. To me the first choice is the clear choice imo

2010's had more issues since they were the first years of sho's too so with that, good luck in your decision

[G03svt]

Both dealers claim they can't go any lower. I got both to come down quite a bit from their asking prices. I may end up with the '10 since the dealer is much closer and I can get it pre-owned certified since they are a Ford dealership. The other guy will not go any lower at all and it's at a Chevy dealership, maybe they gave too much in trade in.

[mjhpadi]

The CPO is a good value, and Ford has pretty much resolved all the issues with the 10. Actually I have only had few things that needed warranty service with my car and it was built 20 Nov. 2009. So it isn't an early 10 but still a Job 1 car. You can tell if the car you are considering is a Job 1 or 2 but the trunk. If the trunk lid has a pull down handle, it is a Job 2 car. If it does not have one it is a Job 1.

[casperl878]

i would def go with the fully loaded one(which i think was the 2010) but if they wont budge in price then ask for a low interest rate or a extended warranty or something, but having a fully loaded SHO is priceless !!

[tss]

Another vote for the less expensive loaded 2010.

[racerx78]

It depends on what you want out of the car. If it was me someone who drives alot and races i would go with #1. It has lower miles, its newer, and has the PP. And while the Pre-'13 PP is not as robust it still get the shorter gearing, and ability to fully shutoff the traction control, and you can retrofit the tranny cooler fairly easily. I don't need ACC(That is what my eyes and feet are for), Navi(Mobile phone has it for free) or MCS.

[mjhpadi]

Actually, if you talk "need", we really don't "need" 365hp or a lot of other stuff. All the stuff that you don't "need" sure is sweet to have and use. It really comes down to what you want in a vehicle. What's really a bummer is that you can't get the ACC with the PP...I would have opted for both.

[racerx78]

Actually' date=' if you talk "need", we really don't "need" 365hp or a lot of other stuff.[/quote']

 

Speak for yourself i need every last pony this car can put out, Lord knows i use it :dance:. What i was commenting is what decision i would make if i were in his shoes. Like i stated for my needs i'd choose low mileage performance over extra luxuries i wouldn't use. As far as the OP i don't know where their priorities lay.

[steve142857]

If you don't put a lot of mileage on it, I would chose the 2010 with more mileage and buy that extra warranty. I would keep a few bucks on the side to lower the car with H&R or Eibach and that would give you your kind of Performance package... The gear ratio is actually just an extra shift in the 0-60 mph so unless you drag race, you won't be faster with or without the PP. But it allows you to have a spare tire and the ACC. Plus it comes with Navi... for me that is a must and the interior of the car looks better too with it... At least, your color choice is easier to make. Good luck and kepp us posted!

[Slowsho]

Yea I would say the 2010 non-PP as well. I just got mine with 40k on it for 24999. Fully loaded non-PP. Love every min of driving this car so far.

[G03svt]

Thanks for all the input. I plan on getting the 2nd one this week or early the following week. In the end, I have a '03 Cobra with over 700rwhp so my plan is to not go to crazy with the SHO. With that said my first call will be to Rick for a tuner.

[The Bone]

I would also go with the first one. The pp doesn't add much to the game. Bigger wheels and stiffer springs but there is nothing you cant add yourself. The lower mileage car is a better buy unless it was put on a 1/4 mile at a time. I bet the oil hasn't been changed more than once or twice in it. For $2,900 price difference and the 23,000 mile difference its a no brainier for me.

[steve142857]

I would also go with the first one. The pp doesn't add much to the game. Bigger wheels and stiffer springs but there is nothing you cant add yourself. The lower mileage car is a better buy unless it was put on a 1/4 mile at a time. I bet the oil hasn't been changed more than once or twice in it. For $2' date='900 price difference and the 23,000 mile difference its a no brainier for me.[/quote']

The first one that you refer to is the 2011 with less mileage. That one has the PP. So the question is more if he needs Navi, ACC and spare VS PP but naked. Is 2,900$ + Navi + ACC + spare worth 23,000 miles, one year and PP... For me no, but it all depends!