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On day 3, I said let there be beats!


Kolk1
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I at least went 2 days without doing anything to it. lol

 

First off, this is just a temp setup, Im content with the mids and highs for now, but just felt it needed a little help in the low end. I dont do this to be loud, I do this for Sound quality. At the same time, I didnt know how much sound would get through the trunk due to how quiet the car is. And I get audio stuff at cost, so I figured Id go with 2. All said and done (even tried with one unhooked) a single 10 would of been enough for what I was looking for, but for now I have 2, and the amp gain on like 20%. lol

 

I will say, I did 0 research about what other people have done before I started the install. I do it for a living so I normally find my own path. That being said. Couple things ive found out, and going to change up later:

 

When finding a signal for my new amp I found that the factory sub signal, doesnt go high enough for my liking, and then the rear doors, have almost no bass and dont go low enough. So it seems the front doors are the closest to a full signal 20-100 that im looking for. So im using that signal for the time being.

 

What im going to do to fix or change this, when I have time, is find either a better full signal before the rears are separated at the amp, or use a different Line output converter, and actually tap off the factory subs, AND the doors at the same time, and use both signals as the input for my amp. Either one would basically be a temporary fix until I get a Audison Bit one signal processor, but that wont happen until I do my main build.

 

So for now, I just have 2 10inch Alpine Type Es, running off a Kicker IX amp, doing 300rms x 2 at 4 ohms.

 

Box has legs on it, so its not touching the black little box marked trunk antenna. And this pic was before I made brackets so the box wont move.

 

7F2ECB17-52F9-4777-A61B-7E5569151FF5-5407-0000044EEF6002E2.jpg

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God no, I have a little bit of morals. Im at best buy. lol, but normally only work weekends.

 

I will say, Audio Express was the first shop to ever hire me, when I had 0 professional experience. And they still got mad at me that a basic radio install took longer than 10 minutes.... That was over 10 years ago.

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I might have to come down some weekend and hang out for a day and have you do some stuff. I have the sub and amp and install kit+ Line out converter( was for my stang ) My best friend worked at BB for years he was the head installer and he did all the complicated stuff for me. Sadly he got killed last summer on his bike. :( Haven't found anyone i trust to do it around here yet.

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That sucks about your buddy. Sadly I normally work all weekend, and usually off Monday-Friday, winter is a little more busy due to remote start season. But im always looking for people to hang out with during the week.

 

That being said, I normally dont have an issue doing anything for people, the one place I draw the line, is remote starts at home. With newer vehicles, theres more modules that need to be programmed, and too many small issues can pop up, and I dont have the proper software or tech support at home if anything happens. Also, Viper products that I deal with only have a warranty if installed by a authorized dealer.

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Also' date=' Viper products that I deal with only have a warranty if installed by a authorized dealer.[/quote']

 

We were a DEI (viper) dealer in the late 80's when remote technology was just comming onto market. When the first remote start kits came on scene, they were huge black boxes. And you had to wire mutliple bosch SPDT relays everywhere. you have it easy, :P everything is onboard now.

 

It was real fun when people wanted remote start on GM cars with the VATS system. I loved bursting people buble when i showed them how that system is defeated with a simple resister. i think there were only like 16 different values possible.

 

there are times when i miss it. But being on my back upside down in the drivers foot well of a C3 or C4 corvette would not be fun at age 41. i got out beofe the C5's and C6's came out.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Drop in speakers will sound clearer, but probably not any more bass, or louder, due to they need more power. Pick up a 2 channel, buy a good set of components, and just amp the front doors, with them properly blended to the rest of the car, thats what im doing right now.

 

Im using this right now:

8014659_sa.jpg;canvasHeight=500;canvasWidth=500

 

I plan to move on to a better one when I do my "real" system this summer. Probably go with Audison Bit10 processor, and either Audison amps or Zapco amps.

 

Since I made this thread, ive dynomatted the doors. Did Hertz HSK 165XL comps up front, and they are running off a RE Audio 4 channel amp, thats bridged to a 2 channel.

 

E38E2898-13AD-4394-8375-01691B4C2C64-1354-0000011E49C98819.jpg

 

In this pic you can see the RE amp mounted in place, and up above the wheel well, you can see the 2 crossovers mounted in place. Like I said, temp setup for about 3-4 months.

 

9ADB7E5C-6B3C-4FD2-856F-7A57F72DF123-2426-000002070B037169.jpg

 

Test fitting the adapter plates I had to make for the oversized 6.5s to fit into the 6x8 openings. This is also obviously before I did the dynomat.

 

67F78C81-9AC7-4FB6-9A86-8C2BCD359046-1335-0000011DE26CA892.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I didn't read the entire thread, but did you run power from the battery all the way back for the Amp? Or were you able to tap into a power line somewhere in the trunk?

 

I am going to be throwing in my extra 12w3v3's here pretty soon. I might have to tap into the front signal as well to make sure the subs have a better range, like you stated.

 

Also any tricks to taking apart the front doors?

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Yes, new power needs ran from the battery. Depending on the size of the amp will determine gauge of wire and under hood fuse size. I normally just run 4 gauge wire in all my cars unless I'm planning a huge build.

 

Doors weren't bad, the black 1 inch plastic piece that runs front to back and wraps around, Where you grab to shut the door, the long piece of that needs to pop off first to expose some screws, then where it drops down for the handle comes off to. Panel with the window buttons pops out, and the small black panel behind the lever to open the door pops out too.

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Yes, new power needs ran from the battery. Depending on the size of the amp will determine gauge of wire and under hood fuse size. I normally just run 4 gauge wire in all my cars unless I'm planning a huge build.

 

Doors weren't bad, the black 1 inch plastic piece that runs front to back and wraps around, Where you grab to shut the door, the long piece of that needs to pop off first to expose some screws, then where it drops down for the handle comes off to. Panel with the window buttons pops out, and the small black panel behind the lever to open the door pops out too.

 

Thanks for the response and details about the door.

 

I am going to be running 1/0 because in about another 3-4 months I will be installing 2 Sundown 100.4D and 1 Audioque 1200. Was just curious if there was anything to tap into in the trunk so I didn't need to run the big wire yet. Looks like I will though.

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I had to drill a new hole, and install a grommet. Id probably have to take a picture of where I went through the firewall. Not sure I could explain it.

 

I love me some Sundowns. I was running their subs about 2 years ago. 2 SA-12s in a Nissan Versa.

 

If you would spend the time to do that, it would be greatly appreciated. Also did you run it down the floor underneath the door sil or down the center?

 

I am going to be installing 8" and 4" in the doors. The tweets will go in the panels. Going to fiberglass them in and then wrap it all in Carbon Fiber. Then I am going to take all of the trim we have that is the black/white and turn that into Carbon Fiber as well. It's going to look pretty bad ass once I am all done.

 

I've always enjoyed Sundown. Great company/product.

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