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NEW End Links and Traction Bars!!!!


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First of, these are in the experimental stage and before I offer up all details, I need to make sure these will work without failure as I had to change a few things from the units I purchased.

 

There were some bolt changes, spacers that I made and welding will need to be done for the installation. I am just showing the parts and temporary install as the welding will be done later this week.

 

I have not worked on the rear end links yet until the front is complete, so there may be modifications that need to be made from the photos shown.

 

I hope this works out good for us and will give more details later.

 

Front End Link

IMG_1506_zpsad338fba.jpg

 

Traction Bar

IMG_1507_zps7c0c0f07.jpg

 

Rear End Link

IMG_1508_zps5d5ec1ae.jpg

 

Front End Link Comparo

IMG_1509_zpsc71a1e0a.jpg

 

The front hole on the lower control arm is the location of the traction bar mount.

IMG_1510_zpsa06ffa94.jpg

 

Front End Link Installed

IMG_1511_zpsf7c07252.jpg

 

Traction Bar Temp Install

IMG_1512_zpsf8e45e19.jpg

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What's the theory behind the traction bar? Kind of hard to tell what it's doing from the picture?

 

I researched front wheel drive drag racers and by installing traction bars from the frame to the control arm, they were able to keep the wheel hop and front suspension from moving thus increasing traction.

 

As most know, Darrell and I are running the same setup and programming. My quicker time I believe was only do to the wider wheel/tire setup I have compared to his. We are spinning into 3rd gear, so we are looking at any advantage possible. If this gets me into the 11's, this will be an excellent addition to our cars.

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Ok, so you'd put these on once at the track and you're basically trying to prevent/reduce weight transfer to the rear. As another option you can install an airbag to your rear coil springs that you can pump up at the track to basically increase your spring rates and reduce weight transfer to the rear thus keep weight on the front and increasing traction. I used to use it on my fox body to prevent body roll. I was running street renegade so we were limited to a 10.5 tire and was pulling 1.29 60'

http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/performance_suspension/performance_springs/drag-launch

This is little different scenario but if you put them in both rear springs then it'd work for what you're looking for.

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Ok, so you'd put these on once at the track and you're basically trying to prevent/reduce weight transfer to the rear. As another option you can install an airbag to your rear coil springs that you can pump up at the track to basically increase your spring rates and reduce weight transfer to the rear thus keep weight on the front and increasing traction. I used to use it on my fox body to prevent body roll. I was running street renegade so we were limited to a 10.5 tire and was pulling 1.29 60'

http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/performance_suspension/performance_springs/drag-launch

This is little different scenario but if you put them in both rear springs then it'd work for what you're looking for.

 

Air bags did not improve 60' times as Darrell had them on his car. The traction bars will hopefully eliminate any slight wheel hop and suspension movement.

 

Oh, and also we need some weight to the rear due to our AWD system.

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Thanks a bunch there Mike, on behalf of the ENTIRE SHO Ecoboost community for pioneering this effort :hail:

 

Very interesting concept, and the pictures help reinforce what steps your taking to achieve your goals of breaking into the 11's :thumb:

 

I do have a question though.

 

Since I am doing my best to put money aside for the upgraded turbo's this year (Darrell knows as I've been speaking to him directly about this).....

 

I will most likely be in need of this traction bar set up as well.

 

I would hope that you are keeping track of part #'s (if applicable since it's all experimental at this point), as well as any related cost(s) / price point(s) too.

 

I would be curious if, whoever it is you're working with, as far as mfg'ers or vendors, will they potentially present this as a "kit" in which others (like me) can purchase it?

 

Once again, thank you, thank you, thank you.......

 

Sending more rep points your way, and definitely a well deserved couple of cold ones when our paths cross again during 2013.

 

Your fellow........

 

Mike :yo:

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Nice work. Hopefully it will do what it is expected to do and bring you deep in the 11's... Meanwhile, go back with OEM wheels and Hankook tires and you should get the traction needed...

I know I have less power, but still I am not experiencing traction issues what so ever. Even in the snow, I tried a 0-60 and did it under 5 seconds... OEM is the cheapest solution.

But I am confident your setup should bring good results.

Good luck Mike!

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Air bags did not improve 60' times as Darrell had them on his car. The traction bars will hopefully eliminate any slight wheel hop and suspension movement.

 

Oh, and also we need some weight to the rear due to our AWD system.

 

 

 

Oh yea, almost forgot about this one.......

 

So you think I should be replacing the spare tire I took out of my trunk?

 

I mean I removed it for weight reduction purposes...... thoughts on that?

 

I suppose for those who have upgraded, or are considering upgrading, their audio set ups (which I think Darrell was looking into if I recall correctly) any opinions on the added weight let's say from a sub box being in the trunk helping as far as adding weight to the rear?

 

Just seems so odd to re-add weight. Almost like it flies smack in the face of traditional thought processes.

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Thanks guys and to answer the questions.

 

I have a complete parts list so far and have machined extra parts for additional kits. I purchased these units from one supplier and they were off the shelf. It was nice to see minimal work and parts were needed to make it work. So far all parts are about $600. I have not decided if I will offer the kits myself or just supply the machined parts to those who ask and let you know where to buy the off the shelf kits.

 

One thing we all need to remember is some have the Performance Package and some don't. What I am finding is the ones without seem to have better traction. I do not have a spare in the rear with the PP, so i do not know if it would help to add weight. Everything I have found out on our AWD system is it is programmable and can handle 595 lb tq, but Ford makes changes when they get it and no info is available. Maybe Dan at LMS can find out more.

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Thanks guys and to answer the questions.

 

I have a complete parts list so far and have machined extra parts for additional kits. I purchased these units from one supplier and they were off the shelf. It was nice to see minimal work and parts were needed to make it work. So far all parts are about $600. I have not decided if I will offer the kits myself or just supply the machined parts to those who ask and let you know where to buy the off the shelf kits.

 

One thing we all need to remember is some have the Performance Package and some don't. What I am finding is the ones without seem to have better traction. I do not have a spare in the rear with the PP, so i do not know if it would help to add weight. Everything I have found out on our AWD system is it is programmable and can handle 595 lb tq, but Ford makes changes when they get it and no info is available. Maybe Dan at LMS can find out more.

 

From what I read in Helms online,techs can send 90% of the torque to the rear wheels. It appears the torque split can be manipulated via IDS and the active torque coupler.

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From what I read in Helms online' date='techs can send 90% of the torque to the rear wheels. It appears the torque split can be manipulated via IDS and the active torque coupler.[/quote']

 

I spoke with the engineers at Jtech who make our system and they informed me Ford makes there own changes to how much torque goes to the rear wheels. Everything we have found out is Ford only allows 150 lb ft of tq to the rear wheels, but I am not sure if anyone really knows. Looking at some video the rear wheel don't spin anywhere near as fast as the fronts in slow motion.

 

Steve for a front wheel drive only car, more weight in front is the way to go, but with our cars I don't feel taking from the rear and moving from the front helps. My theory is that causes the rears to spin quicker thus keeping more power to the front and increasing loss of traction. I think that is why the airbags in Darrell's car when inflated ran slower.

 

I really wish we could get Ford to assist in giving us means to put more power to the rear wheels, but they want nothing to do with that.

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Well' date=' my car just happens to have an AWD binding issue. It goes in tomorrow so I will let you know what I find out. I'm hoping I get a glimpse at the IDS interface and I plan on interrogating, er, I mean, questioning the tech about it.[/quote']

 

Let me know as the techs I have talked to don't really have a lot of detail info on them and Ford is being hush-hush on helping provide any info.

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If you are serious about drag racing and want to go fast then remove as much weight as possible. You should be able to plant any amount of power you want with good tires and adjustable suspension setups along with a traction aid that is being developed. I have asked in the wheels section but no one is clear yet on if 18" wheels will clear our brakes as there are excellent DR's available in that size. Also adjustable suspension setups are a must to get the weight transfer where it needs to be. This means adjustable shocks and springs to get the most power planted to the ground.

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If you are serious about drag racing and want to go fast then remove as much weight as possible. You should be able to plant any amount of power you want with good tires and adjustable suspension setups along with a traction aid that is being developed. I have asked in the wheels section but no one is clear yet on if 18" wheels will clear our brakes as there are excellent DR's available in that size. Also adjustable suspension setups are a must to get the weight transfer where it needs to be. This means adjustable shocks and springs to get the most power planted to the ground.

 

baggedsvt, oh we know about weight, suspension, tires, struts/springs, but the problem is no one is making aftermarket suspension parts for our cars, except springs. I have taken the liberty of working on some mods to improve traction and from this post you see I have incorporated end links and traction bars on the car. I will be posting additional photos of the install and the new limit straps I am sure will be a big help in not allowing front end lift.

 

Also, I will be test fitting 18" wheels (keep in mind I run Wilwood big brake setup) with 305/45 Nitto NT05R drag radials at the track. I was running 275/40 Nitto NT555R drag radials last year, and was spinning into 3rd gear. It is tough to heat them up enough to get them sticky, especially on the cool day we were running, but still ran the 12.0909 run.

 

I am confident with what I am doing I will hit 11's this year.

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If you are serious about drag racing and want to go fast then remove as much weight as possible. You should be able to plant any amount of power you want with good tires and adjustable suspension setups along with a traction aid that is being developed. I have asked in the wheels section but no one is clear yet on if 18" wheels will clear our brakes as there are excellent DR's available in that size. Also adjustable suspension setups are a must to get the weight transfer where it needs to be. This means adjustable shocks and springs to get the most power planted to the ground.

 

18" Mustang wheels will clear the brakes, at least on the 10-12's.

They have the correct offset also.

I have test fit a set of 18x9 deep dish bullet rims and they were ok.

Even the 17 factory Bullet rims fit also, although with 235/55/17 they look tiny compared to

the 19 in SHO rims.

 

Brian S.

10 Cinnamon SHO

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Also, I will be test fitting 18" wheels (keep in mind I run Wilwood big brake setup) with 305/45 Nitto NT05R drag radials at the track.

 

 

Mikey Thompson sells a 305/45/18 in a ET Street Radial II. Im personally not a fan of Nittos, but if those nitto fit, id want to try out the MT's. My 300whp bike build should be done this month, so after thats squared away, I can start looking into the motor on the SHO, and finally have a reason to buy sticky tires. lol

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baggedsvt, oh we know about weight, suspension, tires, struts/springs, but the problem is no one is making aftermarket suspension parts for our cars, except springs. I have taken the liberty of working on some mods to improve traction and from this post you see I have incorporated end links and traction bars on the car. I will be posting additional photos of the install and the new limit straps I am sure will be a big help in not allowing front end lift.

 

Also, I will be test fitting 18" wheels (keep in mind I run Wilwood big brake setup) with 305/45 Nitto NT05R drag radials at the track. I was running 275/40 Nitto NT555R drag radials last year, and was spinning into 3rd gear. It is tough to heat them up enough to get them sticky, especially on the cool day we were running, but still ran the 12.0909 run.

 

I am confident with what I am doing I will hit 11's this year.

 

 

I think your traction aid should help with the wheel hop. We need to find a adjustable strut that will work for our application as that will greatly help with getting the weight transfer we want and planting the tires. I am very new to the platform so I am learning what is out there and what may have to be customized to achieve the goal we want.

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there are places where you can get a 4 wheel weight test done. Find one, take out everything you normally do for your track days, sit in the car and then based on the results add some ballasts. keep them removable and you can drop them in just for track days. Watched people do this for auto cross. I was never good enogh to warrant going that far. :(

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