Crash712us Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 What exactly do you mean you swapped maps? MAP sensor? If so you have to a tune calibrated to the bar 3 MAP and it has to installed prior to installed tune. And vice versa with bar 2 MAP, they have to installed prior to installing tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 What exactly do you mean you swapped maps? MAP sensor? If so you have to a tune calibrated to the bar 3 MAP and it has to installed prior to installed tune. And vice versa with bar 2 MAP' date=' they have to installed prior to installing tune.[/quote'] Well I bought a LMS tunes with a SCT X3 tuner. I went through all the steps in putting the tunes(call them maps used to the cobb access port and thats what we called them) on the device to put one in the car. Downloaded a stage 4 tune(stock except for a delete res/muffler) and the car is slower than stock. Tried 3-4 different tests to confirm it. Spoke to Rick(response is very quick) told me it could be the spark plugs not gap'd correctly. I'm Hoping that's all it is. Flashed back to the stock tune and the car is fine and running strong again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Are you logging any knock' date=' fuel issues, or air issues? That is all you need to do to figure it out.[/quote'] I didn't. As of right now I switched back to the stock map and was going to wait until I swap the plugs and then do some datalogs. Only weird thing I noticed that the fuel trims were higher than normal and the vac was in the 19s instead with the stock tune its like 20.7-21.3. I tried to see if anyone else have had these issues but no one really seems they have. I'm used to this stuff with the mazdaspeeds lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash712us Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Well I bought a LMS tunes with a SCT X3 tuner. I went through all the steps in putting the tunes(call them maps used to the cobb access port and thats what we called them) on the device to put one in the car. Downloaded a stage 4 tune(stock except for a delete res/muffler) and the car is slower than stock. Tried 3-4 different tests to confirm it. Spoke to Rick(response is very quick) told me it could be the spark plugs not gap'd correctly. I'm Hoping that's all it is. Flashed back to the stock tune and the car is fine and running strong again. Ok, I see. Odd I must say, I see your car is a 2010 so maybe some new plugs are in order if they already haven't been changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Ok' date=' I see. Odd I must say, I see your car is a 2010 so maybe some new plugs are in order if they already haven't been changed.[/quote'] Yea im at 49k. So im hoping that its just the plugs. I will change them out and gap them correctly tomorrow. Then put in stage 4 again and see what happens haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucelinc Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Wow, this is odd. Is it possible that the stage 4 file could somehow have been contaminated? Have you tried reloading the file on your tuner or has Rick suggested sending you a new file? I really cannot imagine installing the tune and having the car be slower - regardless of your plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Wow' date=' this is odd. Is it possible that the stage 4 file could somehow have been contaminated? Have you tried reloading the file on your tuner or has Rick suggested sending you a new file? I really cannot imagine installing the tune and having the car be slower - regardless of your plugs.[/quote'] Yea Im actually thinking something like that couldof happened. Im used to doing E-tunes(used to send datalogs to my tuner and he would send over tunes through emails) so im not new to taking files and putting them onto devices. The only thing i can think of is that I did something wrong or possible something wrong with the files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucelinc Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I think I would ask Rick to resend the file. Strange things happen sometimes and it isn't necessarily anything that was done incorrectly. I can't recall if it was somewhere in this forum or possibly some other site, but I remember reading of someone else who installed the tune and they had a drivability issue. Rick re-sent them the file, they reloaded and it was perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrylu Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I think I would ask Rick to resend the file. Strange things happen sometimes and it isn't necessarily anything that was done incorrectly. I can't recall if it was somewhere in this forum or possibly some other site' date=' but I remember reading of someone else who installed the tune and they had a drivability issue. Rick re-sent them the file, they reloaded and it was perfect.[/quote'] Might have been me. I dropped 3 to 4 mpg across the board with 4+. Mileage was great with stock and with stage 3. Rick very nicely resent me stage 4+ and my mileage went back to almost as good as stock. Great that LMS does not leave us hanging when we are working out problems. Definitely worth a try. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cobra99 Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Update: today I found 16 NGK plugs that happened to be in inventory where I work and my boss just gave me a set. I gapped them to .026. Took the car out with the stock tune and car drove great. Got in touch with Rick regarding my stage4 tranny shift firmness. I like to feel the shifts really crisp. He sent me a couple of files and boy what a difference. The shifts aren't so aggressive that my wife would complain but the are firmer. For you old school guys, it feels like a TH350 with a street/strip shift kit, not the race one lol. I love the way it shifts now. The engine pulls so linear with the plugs gapped down. I sometimes felt a very minimal stumble and now it's completely gone. Even with the stock tune I always felt that minor kind of like a short blip only under wot, if you could say that. I can't wait to get the exhaust done now, gonna fab up a custom 3" true duals first and see if I like the sound. If not ill add the x pipe section to it later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cobra99 Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Sorry, thanks a million Rick!!! Will you be my Valentine! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucelinc Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Might have been me. I dropped 3 to 4 mpg across the board with 4+. Mileage was great with stock and with stage 3. Rick very nicely resent me stage 4+ and my mileage went back to almost as good as stock. Great that LMS does not leave us hanging when we are working out problems. Definitely worth a try. Good luck. Yep, Larry, you were the one I was talking about but I had forgotten the details. When I was on the fence about getting a tune, I was mostly concerned about bad side effects and nothing I could do about it. When I read your original post about Rick sending you a new file to replace a possibly corrupted one, it helped me see that the LMS service was really good. Since installing 4+, the weather here in Minneapolis has not been helpful to get good mileage. However, I think I am getting as good as stock and maybe a bit better. It sure seems to cruise easily at 75-80 with super light throttle application. Like others have said, the power is so addictive, it is really hard to stay out of the boost. If I don't get at least one WOT run per day, I start getting the shakes - bad withdrawal symptoms! :RpS_biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve142857 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hahaha! Glad to see I am not alone with the wot addiction! Hi, my name is Steve, I am an addict! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cobra99 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi my name is Albert and I am an addict:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacoflyer Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 I left the denso itv 22 at 0.35 gap or whatever it is from the Factory Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Most plug gaps out of the box are not consistent and need to be checked. I picked up a set of NGK LTR71X-11 yesterday and the gaps were close to 40 out of the box. I moved them to .030 and installed them last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve142857 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 When you purchase them at 0.40 gap, what are you basing your decision on to put a 0.30? I know nothing... Only thing I know is that when I went with the meth kit with the 2010, I had bought one degree colder plugs and the mechanic told me they were all gapped properly. They were Denso ITV22 and the car was running like a charm... I wanted to buy new ones for the 2013, but they were hard to find, so I bought one degree cooler NGKs. My understanding is that the gap is supposed to be optimal out of the box (I understand it is good to double check them), but why would we want to change the gap? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Gapping typically is good out the box, but that is for the engines stock settings. once your modified you may have to modify the plug gapping so that you can run the widest gap possible without getting spark blowout. Depending how aggressively your tuned the gap you need can vary. Something else is you always should check the gap before you install any plug. They typically could be gapped the same, but that is not always true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bnoon Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 and just FYI you will need to be VERY careful trying to gap iridium plugs because the electrodes are soooo tiny they can easy be bent or broken. Typically on boosted engines you will run .028-.032 gap to avoid spark blowout at higher boost. As for the colder plugs (I haven't read through the entire post word for word) but you typically only need colder plugs if you're running into knock under load at the boost and horsepower levels you're wanting to run. If you run colder plugs and don't need them, it won't gain you anything except hard starting on cold days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 and just FYI you will need to be VERY careful trying to gap iridium plugs because the electrodes are soooo tiny they can easy be bent or broken. Typically on boosted engines you will run .028-.032 gap to avoid spark blowout at higher boost. As for the colder plugs (I haven't read through the entire post word for word) but you typically only need colder plugs if you're running into knock under load at the boost and horsepower levels you're wanting to run. If you run colder plugs and don't need them' date=' it won't gain you anything except hard starting on cold days.[/quote'] Yes when gapping IR plugs you don't use the typical gaping coin tool to change the gap. You should use the wire loom adjuster tool to adjust it properly. As far as the having issues starting on cold mornings, i've never heard that before. Step colder plugs function in the same way as stock plugs they just are insulated better to deal with more heat. that way they don't melt like the stock heat range would if you really have an aggressive tune. If you use colder plugs when you don't need them the plugs will not get hot enough to self clean so they will foul sooner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Yea im at 49k. So im hoping that its just the plugs. I will change them out and gap them correctly tomorrow. Then put in stage 4 again and see what happens haha. FWIW bud, I ended up swapping my original circa 2010 CYFS 12 plugs for the new rev SP*528* because of sluggishness last March, it made a noticeable difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bnoon Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Yes when gapping IR plugs you don't use the typical gaping coin tool to change the gap. You should use the wire loom adjuster tool to adjust it properly. As far as the having issues starting on cold mornings' date=' i've never heard that before. Step colder plugs function in the same way as stock plugs they just are insulated better to deal with more heat. that way they don't melt like the stock heat range would if you really have an aggressive tune. If you use colder plugs when you don't need them the plugs will not get hot enough to self clean so they will foul sooner.[/quote'] I only heard about it after it happened to me on my Mazdaspeed 3, pulled a multiple misfire code when cold, warmed up it was fine. Searched the net and found that it was pretty common. That was two heat ranges colder in -15 to -20 temps. Swapped back to stock for winter, then back to the same 2 step colder set for summer and never had an issue after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 When i had my Gen2 MS3 modded i ran 1 step colder year round here in Ohio and never had a problem. I always went with the rule that you run 1 step colder for ever 100HP over stock the car is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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