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Torque app impressions


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I think I'm on to what is causing my low boost reading. If so as usual it's my fault. In early poking around in the app, I found a Boost calculation method place with 3 choices, MAP (def), MAF, and ALT. I had selected the ALT. I put it back to the default MAP and set the offset value to (0) and I can't wait to go out and give it a go. I did not find this on my own. I found the torque app forum and posted my question there. I also sent an email to the developer of the app. I got a reply from the forum and also got a reply from the developer (Ian Hawkins) both by email and on the forum very quickly overnight actually. I'm now running my most recent file update of 4+ (removing the grade assist) and yes it did remove my mystery icon. The SHO is running very strong and I love this torque app. Lots of things to tweak and play with. The gauges are beautiful. For general information the developer recommends the "OBD2 Link MX" adaptor that I bought for it's speed and dependability. I see no noticeable lag in the displays. I think the sampling rates are averaging around 30 per second.

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Let us know if that fixes it. I ordered my OBD2 Link MX last night, will be here on Wednesday. What kind of mount is that in your picture? I found one too that mounts to your seat bolt and snakes up to wherever you would like, not sure which way to go yet.

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I will post results on the boost issue later today. I'm pretty sure you will be happy with that adaptor. Did you pay $150 for the adaptor like I did or did you score a better deal? My mount is something I made. It actually was a lot harder than I originally thought. The one you see is my 5th design. I'm not just a little obsessive and I just couldn't quit. For instance design #3 used magnets to hold the tablet to the mount. Looked great and held the Nexus great too....but the magnets made the tablet a little squirrelly. This last one uses a channel to hold the bottom and the belt clip from a iPhone holster to snap down and hold the top. The mount to speaker grille connection is self adhesive velcro. I plan on leaving the mount in place most of the time, and just popping the tablet out of the mount as needed for whatever. Also I found the first angle I used gave to much reflection in daytime driving but OK at night so I had to steepen the angle a bit and now it's pretty good day or night. I'm finding that for my amount of driving the power on ignition only I had wanted looks like it may not be enough to keep the tablet charged. I may have to plug into lighter outlet once or twice a week or maybe bring it into the house and top it overnight on occasion I don't know yet. It is cool to have it turn on and off automatically though. I'm happy with that set up and loving the Torque app.

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My boost reading now is between 11 lbs.and 12 lbs. this is using the default MAP option. I know that the ALT option is not the one to use. It does leave one untried...MAF. I'm thinking that MAP is manifold absolute pressure and I used that in the formula for boost with the MYCAL. any body know what MAF stands for and is that a useful value for Ford owners?

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Those choices are in settings......Obd2 adapter settings......boost calculation method

 

Three choices 1. Prefer MAP (default). 2. Prefer MAF. 3. Prefer ALT

 

the ALT was not a winner for me but the MAP (with vehicle profile boost adjustment set to 0) might just be the one. So far I don't know anything about the MAF choice so I haven't tried it.

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Those choices are in settings......Obd2 adapter settings......boost calculation method

 

Three choices 1. Prefer MAP (default). 2. Prefer MAF. 3. Prefer ALT

 

the ALT was not a winner for me but the MAP (with vehicle profile boost adjustment set to 0) might just be the one. So far I don't know anything about the MAF choice so I haven't tried it.

We don't have a MAF (mass airflow sensor) so I'm thinking MAP will work for you.

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We don't have a MAF as stated and if we did you cannot calculate boost from a MAF. The MAP is the proper choice and I have seen a max of 11lbs with 4+ tune. You can make a graph of RPM vs Boost and see exactly where your boost comes in and for how long. The Torque app is the best android app by far. I have a 12 dollar obd bluetooth adapter from amazon and have been using it for 2 years no problem.

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We don't have a MAF as stated and if we did you cannot calculate boost from a MAF. The MAP is the proper choice and I have seen a max of 11lbs with 4+ tune. You can make a graph of RPM vs Boost and see exactly where your boost comes in and for how long. The Torque app is the best android app by far. I have a 12 dollar obd bluetooth adapter from amazon and have been using it for 2 years no problem.

 

Thanks for the many questions answered especially the boost amount. That means I am all set and working properly. I am blown away by this app and the gauges it provides. So many features I haven't explored yet. Do you leave your adapter plugged in or do you unplug after each use.

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Thanks for the many questions answered especially the boost amount. That means I am all set and working properly. I am blown away by this app and the gauges it provides. So many features I haven't explored yet. Do you leave your adapter plugged in or do you unplug after each use.

 

I unplug it as I use it on multiple vehicles. It really is the best bang for the buck as far as gauges go.

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I just pulled the trigger on the Oblink MX Bluetooth adapter. I was going to get the ELM 327 mini but after reading that there are some bad look-a-likes out there causing problems I decided to spend the money. They are on sale now for 145$ and the added features such as faster transmission speed, encryption, sleep mode when car is off to name a few I figured it was worth the extra money. I picked up a nexus 7 for a deal so now I just have to figure out where and how I am going to mount it while I wait for the adapter to arrive. Technology sure is cool.

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I just pulled the trigger on the Oblink MX Bluetooth adapter. I was going to get the ELM 327 mini but after reading that there are some bad look-a-likes out there causing problems I decided to spend the money. They are on sale now for 145$ and the added features such as faster transmission speed' date=' encryption, sleep mode when car is off to name a few I figured it was worth the extra money. I picked up a nexus 7 for a deal so now I just have to figure out where and how I am going to mount it while I wait for the adapter to arrive. Technology sure is cool.[/quote']

 

You will be using all the same stuff I picked and I gotta say this has been one of the most fun projects I've done in quite a while. I think I'm over the hump.....all problems solved and you are right it is just too cool!

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Also you mentioned tying in the nexus power from the panel. Did you butcher a wall fly adapter or use a USB? If you could shoot a pic I would appreciate it. Also has anyone used a USB port expander to plug in more than 2 devices. I can't believe how fast you can run out of those suckers. How did we ever get to the moon?

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Also you mentioned tying in the nexus power from the panel. Did you butcher a wall fly adapter or use a USB? If you could shoot a pic I would appreciate it. Also has anyone used a USB port expander to plug in more than 2 devices. I can't believe how fast you can run out of those suckers. How did we ever get to the moon?

 

To start when I first got my SHO long time ago probably over two years ago the first thing I added was an under dash cigarette lighter power source that did not show and was hot on ignition only (that is how Japanese cars are set up). I'm a Garmin junkie. I'm hooked on it and I wanted all cords hidden and auto on and off cause I run it all the time. Now I can't remember which fuse I tapped (I'll try to look tomorrow) but as I remember it was an unused extra fuse and hot on ignition only. So for this project I went to the same source and plugged a "Y" connector into my single existing custom lighter so I can hook up both the Garmin and the Nexus. For the Nexus I used a plug adaptor that lets you run two USB cables from one cigarette lighter. Only needed to use one of the USB holes all under the dash so nothing showing. I may just replace the Garmin and run Google navigation on the tablet someday, but then I'd miss the gauges. I popped off the speaker grille, and then unbolted the center speaker so I could snake a wire from under dash to the area where I put my mount. Bolted the speaker back and popped the grill back in with just the USB micro sticking out for the Nexus. I bought a replacement for the stock Nexus cable because the micro end of the stock one stuck out straight and I wanted a right angle one to look neater. Got to say that it is really tough getting under that dash for the fuse box and doing anything. Ain't a kid anymore for sure.

 

Only thing I'm not in love with so far is that with not too many miles and a lot of around town short haul ......so far I'm not keeping the Nexus topped up as well as I'm used to with the Garmin. I can maybe bring it in to the house to charge once or twice a week or plug into an always on source like in the console with one of those USB adapters and a removable cable overnight. Maybe it's because i have two devices on one cigarette lighter. They don't use a lot of current though. Don't know how that will end up. I could turn the tablet off completely and that would slow down Nexus battery drain overnight, but so far I like just letting it go to sleep automatically and it waking up with no button pushes or swipes when I fire up the car which was my plan.

 

I'll take a few pics tomorrow to show what I mean.

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I found this high output charger that might help you.

 

http://www.scosche.com/chargers/car/revolt-c2-dual-10-watt-2-1a-usb-car-charger-low-profile

 

Looking forward to the pics. Thanks or the help.

 

That's exactly what I'm using in my under dash lighter power source to power the charge cable to the Nexus. I bought a Ray O Vac from Staples for around $16. High output (2.1 I believe). Problem is the Nexus is discharging slowly while asleep for long periods and charging for very short periods and while charging, I increase the discharge rate by waking it up and displaying screen. Got to figure out how best to balance the power budget.

Here are some pics. I won't get wordy with each as it's prob not needed. Any questions let me know.

 

This is the USB adapter

 

[ATTACH]2017[/ATTACH]

 

This is the OBD2 Link adapter on the end of my short right angle extension

 

[ATTACH]2018[/ATTACH]

 

This is the right angle extension plugged in

 

[ATTACH]2019[/ATTACH]

 

The two adapters I've used

 

[ATTACH]2020[/ATTACH]

 

The right angle Nexus charging cable USB micro

[ATTACH]2023[/ATTACH]]

My spring clip latch on mount

[ATTACH]2024[/ATTACH]

 

Terrible pic but so hard to get to I just stuck the phone up under the dash and crossed my fingers

[ATTACH]2025[/ATTACH]

 

I used a fuse tap on an unused fuse that was hot on ign only. Multi tester and the list of fuses on the fuse box lid are helpful. Being a contortionist is almost mandatory. If you are old enough to need reading glasses .... Two strikes against you already.

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Solid 8 lbs. might bump a bit at the top of the rpm between shifts but not much. I had a harder time reading the MYCAL boost gauge but the torque gauge leaves no doubt. I'd love to have someone else running 4+ use the same torque gauge to compare. That would tell me a lot. Now I'm ready to test out a new flash of a new 4+ file. That's going to tell me something too. One way or another I'll know more in a few days. Hope it's not low output from the turbos.

 

Boost readings at WOT full load on a 2013 through Ford racing gauge:

stock - 10psi with spikes to 12 at shifts

LMS 91 tune - 15 psi solid

LMS 93 tune - 15 psi solid

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I have to assume that since my SHO is running and feeling great that my boost figures with 4+ should be similar. I also assume that both the MYCAL and the Torque app have been giving me low readings perhaps because they are formula driven and perhaps generic. Through trial and error I have come up finally with an offset to calibrate the Torque app so I get the readings I should be getting. In the vehicle profile section, under "Boost offset" a value of -3.0 seems to bring the output numbers to the right spot for LMS Stage 4+. So now I'm reading a nice steady 14.5 @ WOT.

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to keep the Nexus charged when I use it in the way that I want. With my first set up I needed to top it up every couple of days. I made several changes and now I have to drive it and see if I improved things. A really fun project for sure!

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I have to assume that since my SHO is running and feeling great that my boost figures with 4+ should be similar. I also assume that both the MYCAL and the Torque app have been giving me low readings perhaps because they are formula driven and perhaps generic. Through trial and error I have come up finally with an offset to calibrate the Torque app so I get the readings I should be getting. In the vehicle profile section, under "Boost offset" a value of -3.0 seems to bring the output numbers to the right spot for LMS Stage 4+. So now I'm reading a nice steady 14.5 @ WOT.

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to keep the Nexus charged when I use it in the way that I want. With my first set up I needed to top it up every couple of days. I made several changes and now I have to drive it and see if I improved things. A really fun project for sure!

 

I'm seeing like 12.5psi with stage 4+ with my tq app maybe I need to screw with the same thing you are. I def notice a difference from stock though the Dyno part is about 50-60hp difference than stock lol

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