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Torque app impressions


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I'm seeing like 12.5psi with stage 4+ with my tq app maybe I need to screw with the same thing you are. I def notice a difference from stock though the Dyno part is about 50-60hp difference than stock lol

 

Yes 12.5 is where I was also. When all is set up right with the default value of 0 in the boost offset part of the vehicle profile, that is what the basic formula gives us. Try adding a negative 3.0 instead of 0 and see if you don't like the look of that boost result better!

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Which boost gauge are you guys using that's giving you trouble? The one about half way down the list that says "manifold pressure"' date=' or the one near the bottom of the list that says "Turbo boost & vacuum gauge"?[/quote']

 

Vacuum/Turbo at the bottom of the list for me.

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I don't understand why you would need to put in a correction on that gauge. It's reading data right from the computer's data stream. It merely reports what the computer is seeing. I've never seen mine "out of whack". If yours is whacked out, then so is the computer's reading, correcting the gauge in torque isn't going to fix a faulty comuter data stream. The readings seem to be totally realistic to me. One thing you might try as a temporary check is to setup a couple gauges on a spare screen. Make one of them monitor car's barometric pressure, and the other one monitor torque's barometric pressure, then key on and see how they compare.

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Mine doesn't seem whacky. Seems very credible actually. Just the results don't end up where I think they should. Should my max boost running 4+ be 11.5 lbs. or should the max boost be 14.5 lbs. From the advice I've gotten from several believable sources leads me to believe 14.5 lbs. Maybe that's not right and 11.5 lbs is the correct answer. I know that there is not a boost value per se coming from the data stream and that the boost value for both the MYCAL and the Torque are derived from a formula using the data stream values such as absolute manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure and, maybe it's a stretch, but it seems possible to me that the generic formula might need to have a calibration value for a particular make and model. That's my rationale at least.

I'm in over my head here and would love it if someone with more experience and knowledge would weigh in and put what seems like it really should be an simple question to rest.

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Boost readings at WOT full load on a 2013 through Ford racing gauge:

stock - 10psi with spikes to 12 at shifts

LMS 91 tune - 15 psi solid

LMS 93 tune - 15 psi solid

 

I had a quick chance to play with Torque yesterday in my 2013 and this is what I was seeing as well on stock tune, mostly 10-11 psi with a few spikes up to 11.9 psi. I set it to MAP for boost and did not have any correction in. I didn't have much time though, want to get some runs graphed out.

 

On a side note, if the 2 bar sensors are only good to 14.3 psi, should we be concerned with upgrading to a 3 bar sensor or is that something that was upgraded on the 2013 as well? I haven't checked mine with the tune on it yet.

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Maybe another place to tweak output on the torque is a value again in the vehicle profile. The developer says that volumetric efficiency varies from car to car and that in general the newer cars should be around 80% to 85%. That's where he puts the default. He says older cars can be as low as 70%. I wonder what value

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Maybe something worth looking at is the vehicle profile value for volumetric efficiency. The developer of the Torque app says that this value varies from car to car but in newer cars it usually is around 80% to 85%. Older cars can be as low as 70%. The default value is set at 85%. I wonder ..... Maybe I'll play with that and see what what happens.

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I had a quick chance to play with Torque yesterday in my 2013 and this is what I was seeing as well on stock tune, mostly 10-11 psi with a few spikes up to 11.9 psi. I set it to MAP for boost and did not have any correction in. I didn't have much time though, want to get some runs graphed out.

 

On a side note, if the 2 bar sensors are only good to 14.3 psi, should we be concerned with upgrading to a 3 bar sensor or is that something that was upgraded on the 2013 as well? I haven't checked mine with the tune on it yet.

 

Negatory on the bar 3 MAP.

 

Been so long since running +4 tune but from what I remember, peak boost was never solid. Under WOT hit upon 2nd or 3rd gear it would peak at 15psi but quickly drop down to about 12psi.

I wish I could temporally go back but my when upgrading the MyCal all I have is stage 5 and stock. But stage 5 behaves much the same way where I'll peak at 18psi but quick drop down 15psi.

 

Ideally someone needs to post a data log showing there boost on a run. Been playing around with data logging on MyCal but it shows me a nice graph but no number to go along with, I think I know what to do to correct just have test yet.

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I've been using Torque for a long time and one thing you do have to remember is that it is just reading values off of the CAN bus and these messages are often given lower priority as the car needs to read those values first - so to speak. The other thing that could be factoring in is that the cheaper OBD hardware adapters that some may be running might not be able to process the datastream quick enough and they could be dropping information out of their buffers. If you have a LOT of things you are scanning at one time and they are updating quickly you could easily miss a boost spike to 14 PSI.

 

I have seen my gauge go that high with the 4+ tune but it does seem to drop off quickly to around 12 steady state but the majority of the time I seldom see anything above 12 or 13 PSI. Torque also has a hardware acceleration feature which helps if your adapter supports it (its in the menu on the app).

 

You could try deleting the rest of your gauges and just run a boost gauge to see if you get any different readings.

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I've been concentrating on keeping the device charged and auto on and off more than getting into the app potential. Now I'm thinking I will try keeping plugged into constant power and trying to use activity to wake it up and lack of activity to go to sleep. See how that works.

 

I always thought volumetric efficiency was something that affected a naturally aspirated engine. Somehow I never thought that it would affect a turbo but I guess now I can see how it could still be a factor.

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It would be awesome to have a SHO-themed theme' date=' to match our current gauges colors and appearance.[/quote']

 

I found that one of the canned themes matched up real well with my '10 gauges color and background. I really like it.

Report on the power usage of the Nexus is that while asleep the drain is very low. I found that I went from 100% charge to 97% charge asleep for 24 hours. So I'm guessing that the power usage awake and displaying gauges must be where it's all going. With a high output 2.1 amp USB converter charging while on the road I'm not keeping up. I have run for two or three days charging while running only and still not been lower than 40%. I think a good way to run this unit might be to leave it plugged in to the always on cigaret lighter power output. When the car is turned off and the unit is recharged back to full, while sleeping the power drain would drop to what I'm assuming would be a tiny amount. The downside of that charging scheme is that the auto on and off I love so much doesn't work. You would have to press a button to put to sleep or to wake up. I haven't found a way to have both yet.

 

I'm not an electronic wonk so if anyone sees something wrong in my assumptions please straighten me out.

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Torque and the Nexus continue to work as I hoped with the sole exceptions of low boost reading (12 lbs.) and not maintaining it's charge while running vehicle.

 

I have been trying to figure out what is going on with the charge issue and I've made a lot of progress. After of a lot of trial and error experimentation I believe the fault lies with the Nexus 7operating system. On researching it seems this is a well documented foible of the Nexus 7. Just my luck to pick one with a quirk. There is a fix I'm happy to say but it's not a real easy one. At least it's pretty cheap. I"m planning on loading a custom "kernel" which is like a tweak to the operating system. Seems a lot like loading a tune file to our cars to me. There is a kernel ready and waiting on the internet that fixes this issue, but it's a real tech project with a lot of land mines to avoid. Worst case would "brick" the tablet. First you have to "unlock" the device, then you have to "root" the device, then you can install the kernel. That's way past my comfort level so I tried to get some pro help. Seems like every computer repair or game player shop I tried did not want to mess with it so they exaggerated the scare factor to talk me out of it. I spoke with a friend who is a retired Electrical Engineer and he is using his long time computer hobby to occupy himself as a sideline. He thought my project sounded interesting so he will study the situation for a few days and we will tackle the job in a week or so. I will be looking over his shoulder so I hope I learn something. Here is a link to the kernel I believe is a magic bullet fix to the Nexus low charging issue.

 

http://mehrvarz.github.com/usb-host-mode-power-management-nexus7/

 

The 12 lbs of boost is still a mystery to me. Don't know what if anything is going on. The car seems to run great. Wish it was reading 15 lbs. but it just isn't. Not sure what to do about that.

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Larry, I have been using custom ROM's and Kernels on my Android phones for about 4 years now. For the Nexus 7, you really want to get this toolkit: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1809195

 

It will run within Windows, make rooting and unlocking your tablet easy as, well, running Windows.

 

After that, I suggest the custom ROM from AOKP for that model (code name is grouper): http://aokp.co/

 

Are you having the tablet go into "airplane" mode before it sleeps?

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