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Led turn signal issues


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I completed my exterior LED conversion today. Everything went smoothly, however my right turn signal hyper flashes. Left seems to work fine and the right also works fine "when it feels like it" (sometimes as long as the first 15 minutes of a journey).

I am usually pretty good with the Google-fu, but I am coming up short on this problem. No info out there about flasher unit location (is there one?) or if I should have bought CAN-bus bulbs.

Gladly accepting all guidance and criticism, thanks.

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I pretty sure you have to install a device that corrects this, I'm sorry I don't have a lot of info or knowledge of this. But I do recall reading this before, which is logical understanding that LED's current draw is much less then a conventional bulb. I will try and find info again and post here.

 

this is what you need to correct.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Load-Resistor-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Flash-Turn-Signal-Blink-OBC-Error-Free-su017-/300867115458?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D350596514224%26ps%3D54

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Well, possibly, but the '13 already has LED rear turn signals, strange that converting the single front bulb to LED would throw it off. Also, the left (which uses exactly the same bulb) has yet to hyper-flash/malfunction. Really perplexing me why this would be one sided.

I pretty much found out today that there isn't a flasher, the turn signal flashing is controlled by the SJB under the e-brake pedal. Different bulbs may sort the issue, but again, why only one side. May just have to chalk it up to "never will find out".

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I finally found a bulb that resolved my issues. The only one I have trouble with is the front turn signal and it definitely is a load issue. Every bulb I have tried works fine as a turn signal, until you turn the headlights on.

Because there is already a load on the circuit, the only additional load is the LED's getting brighter to flash. This load isn't enough for the SJB to sense there is a bulb there, so it hyper flashes. I switched to what they call "switchback" bulbs and so far, things are looking good. It also adds to the light of the headlights because they are white in parking/running light mode and then flash amber when you activate the turn signals. Since the white lights go completely out and then you turn on the Amber LED's, there seems to be enough load for the SJB to not hyper flash. Time will tell I guess, I hope it continues.

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What LEDs did you get both times? I have the first gen switchbacks from vleds.com with their lightbulb load corrector and they would hyper flash most the time just testing in my garage.

 

Did you have any problems with your hazards? They go from nothing to full on and rarely worked with my switch backs.

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My first bulbs were the 45 LED 3157 from SuperBrightLEDs. Then I tried the CAN 27 LED from SuperBright, after that it was the high power 27 watt from Autolumination. All worked just fine as turn signals IF the headlights (running lights) were not on. Once you did that, the change in brightness just wasn't enough load.

I just received the 120 LED switchbacks from Autolumination and right now they seem to be working.

 

Hazards are working fine now, to be honest I never tested them with the others.

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  • 1 month later...

whenever you replace a standard bulb with and LED (even though our cars have rear LED turn sigs) you have to put a load resister across the leads to provide additional load. This has nothing to do with current draw, but has to do with the resistance in the bulb itself. If you run a ohm meter across the bulb it will read between 3 and 6 ohms depending on the wattage, most are 3 ohms LEDs are darn near zero ohms. The blinker circuitry detects the lower load and assumes you have a bulb out and does a quick flash to inform you as such, most auto parts stores these days carry the proper resistors. To fix most issues you'll want a 6 ohm with a min of 25 watt, 50 is better, most LED sites will carry 50watt units with a built in heat sink as they will get quite warm with a prolonged on time, like sitting at a long light. I've converted a great many cars and motorcycles to full LED and have always been able to resolve this issue with 6ohm 50watt resistors.

 

hope this helps

 

Desoter

 

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ahh didn't know he had, new to the forums and haven't had a chance to troll them all :)

 

Glad you guys got them figured out, I remember being stumped by this 2 years ago when I made my own LED clusters for my motorcycle and couldn't get them to blink correctly, took me a few days to get the info and then get the correct ohm value and wattage.

 

cheers!

 

Desoter

 

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