larrylu Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I know' date=' it sounds crazy, but I swear it is running smoother. Just doesn't make any logical sense, in light of the fact that I looked pretty close but could not see or feel any cracking or exposed wire. I am Ooosimply not going to question it. I'm just going to be thankful that it is repaired and thankful that I found this forum.[/quote'] Quick question Todd. How many sensor wire pairs am I looking for. Is it one per cyl. Or one per bank. Or only one on the front bank for the whole engine? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 There are great photos posted here, post #8 of this thread (thanks to bpd). It is not one per cyl. There were two white wires I insulated, as seen in post #8 photos. They are visible on the passenger side once the plastic engine cover is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 There are great photos posted here' date=' post #8 of this thread (thanks to bpd). It is not one per cyl. There were two white wires I insulated, as seen in post #8 photos. They are visible on the passenger side once the plastic engine cover is removed.[/b'] Point of clarification..... The sensor in question, is actually located on the DRIVER's side. Not the psgr side. What you'll want to be looking for is the t-stat housing, and the coolant hose that runs from the housing itself. Peer down a lil further, closer to the valve cover, and wallah, the sensor and the chaffed wires should be right there. Also, there are two, separate sets of wires that lead to the sensor. Both sets contain a black, and a white wire coupled together. The wires that are causing this problem, is the set that is closest to the valve cover / engine block itself. If I recall correctly, 98% were able to resolve this issue by simply pulling the wire away, and/or also covering any exposed wiring where the insulation wore off and exposed the wire. I think there have been collectively, 1, or even 2 late model SHO owners who've had to completely replace the knock sensor itself (in addition to relocating the wires). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrylu Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I would have never found it without the description. I know there were plenty of pictures but this engine to me looks so foreign ...like a plumbers nightmare. At any rate no obvious chaffing and not in direct contact so probably not causing any issues. I threw a zip tie around the wires and pulled them away from the block some just for insurance. Thanks to all for the heads up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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