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New / Replacement / Updated Spark Plug # ???


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I asked Torrie about colder plugs... He said that they would be fine, as long as they don't load up... He prefers Ford Motorcraft plugs personally. Did say that a colder plug is more important when going from NA to Forced Induction, vs FI to FI with more boost. This means that Ford has already considered the heat range for their EB - FI engines. I would guess that I would likely benefit more than most since most of my miles are in above 60 degree temps. But... looking at how my plugs looked when I changed them, I'm not too worried about needing colder range plugs, at least in normal driving situations. Might be worth switching them out for the Strip,:RpS_sneaky::bounce::bounce: or when I plan on several nights of stripping:RpS_w00t::RpS_thumbsup:!!!

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  • 2 months later...

I got scared guys!!!

After going to the strip this Saturday, on my way back home I had a little check engine that flashed... Then at idle, the car was «coughing», kind of a hickup, from stable 600rpm then pof pof at 450, then back up to normal... But then when driving, it was driving nice... I didn't want to WOT it, but I did a bit and meth was still working fine and acceleration seemed fine... but at idle, pof pof... Then yesterday, I took the car (added another gallon of meth... my third time in 5 days!!!, watch out Mike lol) and drove to my wife's belly dance show (great btw). When I left the place, the check engine was on and even if I turned off the engine and starting it up after wouldn't make the check engine light disappear... Worries!!! I drove back ome while the car was running very well but with the check engine and then, I ran a check code with the SCT device. It popped up the code P305 with a description of Cyclinder #5 misfiring... Worries x 10!!! I got home and my wife wanted to talk about her show that she just had performed, but quite honestly, my head was elsewhere... I looked in the internet and saw that it could be anything from a spark plug, coil, head gasket or worse broken cylinder... ouch!

This morning, first thing, I brought my car to the dealer and had them run a computer verification and it confirmed the P305 code. By chance, the cylinder #5 is right in front and very accessible, so he looked at the coil : perfect, then the spark plug : melted! The ceramic had slid and disconnected and then the tip just melted causing the misfire. While the spark plug was removed, he inserted a camera inside the cylinder and we could see that everything was perfect, but we could see that a bit of knocking had occured due to the broken spark plug... The mechanic reassured me that with the methanol, nothing to be concerned that it would all be removed and cleaned shortly ; )

So, we put a normal Ford spark plug in and the car runs perfectly! So happy! Now, I will have to order a set of 6 higher performance plugs to make sure it won't happen. That said, they never had been changed and the car now has 46K miles on it. They recommend to change them at 50K mile with normal use... I guess, mine were due and the mechanic guy told me he was really impressed that they made it so long lol

So, I will contact Rick at LMS tomorrow to see what plugs they recommend with my type of use and given that I go to the drag but also face a winter with cold temperature etc.

Darell, Mike and FirstSHO, can you tell me what plugs you are using now and your experience and I will go from there to order?

 

Thanks! I was so happy to pay the dealer this morning, you can't imagine... 7.75$ for the plug, 12$ for the guy that needed to drive to go get the plug at another dealer and 50$ for the time (exam plus install)...

 

Cheers!

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Steve' date=' I run Denso ITV22's which is 1 heat range colder than stock. My plugs looked fine though with the stock heat range. If you go the Denso route you would be fine with ITV 20 or 22[/quote']

 

Thanks! I remember that in my previous car, Fusion V6, I had changed the plugs as well when I tuned it with the SCT device... I had put NGK's like BPD Mike, the iridium ones and they were running great. So, I'll see the availability of the Denso, if not, I'll see the experience of Mike with his NGK. Maybe tomorrow LMS will advice what they'd recommend according to their tune and my setup.

 

Thanks and see you in about a month if you can show up when I'll go visit Livernois. As mentioned, previously, I think we would have a great time if we go to the Milan drag one night a few Ecoboost owners... I'd love to meet with you guys and share that good experience... and the beers and wings that would come with it after ! ; )

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I wanted to be just like Darrell, so try as I may, I was unable to procure the Denso's.

 

I've run with NGK's on previous builds, and the NGK's in the SHO have performed just as well.

 

Steve, I wouldn't think you can go wrong using either mfg'er quite honestly, but you really should upgrade either way. Especiialy given the mileage you state that you are currently at.

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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I just checked... Rock Auto sells the Denzo #5339 which is thee TV20 (same heat range as stock plug 2011 on) for $7.69 ea

 

The original 2010 plug from Ford (Motorcraft) is SP 512A,(less than $3.00 ea) but has been replaced for 2211 up with Ford-Motorcraft SP 528, ($3.61 ea) and for 2010 if replaced as a set of 6. These new plugs are mfg. in Japan.

 

The issue you had with the broken ceramic is common, and happened to me back in March. My tip was fine, so until I turned the plug upside down, it looked OK, and it actually fired at most RPM's except at idle.

 

Unless the SHO is different than the Flex, the way Ford labels the Cylinders is 1,3,5 on windshield side of engine, 1 being on passenger side, and 5 on drivers side. The 2,4,6 are on the grille side 6 being the closest to the air box. Have found the plugs easy to replace. Also, while it is always a good idea to check the clearance, the Motorcraft SP 528's are set at .035 and supposedly cannot be adjusted without possible damage, due to the small electrode.

 

While there may be cheaper places to get oil filters, plugs and other parts, Rock Auto always seems to have everything in stock, and ships quickly.

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Here is a photo of my burned spark plug compared to a new factory one. You can see that the ceramic «disconnected» itself and then the tip burned... I will be replacing with one degree colder (Denso or NGK) depending on availability considering my driving habits. That said, LMS told me that they were running their SHO with the factory spark plugs... I guess the 46K miles on mine plus the way I drove the car is just normal that they would need to be changed a this point...

photo-3.jpg

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