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Ordered from Jegs, no discounts. There are other suppliers out there that are a few bucks cheaper, but I decide to go with Jegs 1. the where in stock and 2. they have long reputation. At a tune of $663 delivered. There other suppliers out there that you can save $20-$30 with but I figured with that type a of cake. It wasn't worth any risk.

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Ordered from Jegs' date=' no discounts. There are other suppliers out there that are a few bucks cheaper, but I decide to go with Jegs 1. the where in stock and 2. they have long reputation. At a tune of $663 delivered. There other suppliers out there that you can save $20-$30 with but I figured with that type a of cake. It wasn't worth any risk.[/quote']

 

Those look great Chris!!! I just ordered a set for someone else on the forum ;)

 

Rick

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Just had gauge pod installed and windows tinted. Everything looks great....Kudos to Chris for manufacturing the gauge pod. Total cost for both was $350.00. Speed shop did a great job, took 4 hous to complete everything. I will post photos as soon as I can wash car and open windows..tint need 3 days to cure.

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Wow Mike! That is a great price! I know I paid at least $50 more, there where others that where a few bucks cheaper then what paid but they where eBay stores. And all 3 gauges I wouldn't have saved even that much. I wish I had talked to you if you had any leads before I bought mine. Could saved me a lot of $$$

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So I finally have ordered up all of my gauges these past couple of days.

 

Thanks to Chris who pointed out to me the necessity of needing a pyrometer, versus my original thought of using a "simple" EGT gauge.

 

Anyhow, my mechanic pal suggested I purchase a boost gauge, an air/fuel ratio gauge, and an EGT/Pyrometer.

 

Now unfortunately, the FRS series (Ford Racing Series) of gauges from Autometer does not offer the EGT, or the Air/Fuel gauges in that series.

 

As such, I was forced to look outside of that specific series and choose something close to it.

 

Which I think, given my overall selections, I think will be fine, as they are all from Autometer and will each compliment eachother appropriately.

 

Here are the three gauges I chose:

 

The Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Autometer Product # 3675 (which I'll place all the way to the left).....

 

AirFuelGauge3675.jpg

 

 

 

The FRS Boost Gauge, Autometer Product # 880074 (which I'll place in the center position).....

 

BoostGauge880074.jpg

 

 

 

The 2K degree EGT / Pyrometer Gauge, Autometer Product # 3647 (which I'll place in the far right slot).....

 

EGTPyrometerGauge3647.jpg

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So I finally have ordered up all of my gauges these past couple of days.

 

Thanks to Chris who pointed out to me the necessity of needing a pyrometer, versus my original thought of using a "simple" EGT gauge.

 

Anyhow, my mechanic pal suggested I purchase a boost gauge, an air/fuel ratio gauge, and an EGT/Pyrometer.

 

Now unfortunately, the FRS series (Ford Racing Series) of gauges from Autometer does not offer the EGT, or the Air/Fuel gauges in that series.

 

As such, I was forced to look outside of that specific series and choose something close to it.

 

Which I think, given my overall selections, I think will be fine, as they are all from Autometer and will each compliment eachother appropriately.

 

Here are the three gauges I chose:

 

The Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Autometer Product # 3675 (which I'll place all the way to the left).....

 

AirFuelGauge3675.jpg

 

 

 

The FRS Boost Gauge, Autometer Product # 880074 (which I'll place in the center position).....

 

BoostGauge880074.jpg

 

 

 

The 2K degree EGT / Pyrometer Gauge, Autometer Product # 3647 (which I'll place in the far right slot).....

 

EGTPyrometerGauge3647.jpg

 

That AFR gauge is a narrow band... you really want a wideband! Now your stock O2 Sensors are WB, but I don't know if there are any wideband guages that can just tap into the stock WB sensors... ???

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Mark, I'm interested in hearing that as well.....

 

I am by no means a mechanic, but yet a mere enthusiast who possesses a semi-better working knowledge of mechanics versus the average person/car owner out there.

 

I do rely pretty heavily on those who know a lot more about this stuff than I.

 

That being said, and hoping not to have to modify my gauge order a 2nd time, I did take into account Scrming's post, and reached out and consulted with my mechanic pal yet again (after shop hours to, but he didn't seem to mind).

 

Anyhow, he acknowledged that the narrow band AFR may not be AS accurate as a wideband, but he added that the narrow band will suffice.

 

Mostly because I won't be playing around with my tunes at all. I rely on the wonderful staff at LMS to hammer down the parameters on those.

 

My pal also said that a wideband is slightly more complicated in that I guess there's a need for some type of 3rd sensor installed somewhere within the exhaust (stream?) :noidea:

 

He did say that for my purposes, the narrow band would be fine as it would provide just enough information to clue me in as to whether or not something hanky is goin on under the hood.

 

I didn't ask him to go into details mind you, as like I said, it's his day off and what not, but I will try to obtain some type of "crash course" in this stuff when we go to install them.

 

In the interim Mark, like you, I'm all open to further discussion and explanations on the subject matter. I like learning new things about car stuff, whether that be aesthetics, or performance based :thumb:

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Mark, I'm interested in hearing that as well.....

 

I am by no means a mechanic, but yet a mere enthusiast who possesses a semi-better working knowledge of mechanics versus the average person/car owner out there.

 

I do rely pretty heavily on those who know a lot more about this stuff than I.

 

That being said, and hoping not to have to modify my gauge order a 2nd time, I did take into account Scrming's post, and reached out and consulted with my mechanic pal yet again (after shop hours to, but he didn't seem to mind).

 

Anyhow, he acknowledged that the narrow band AFR may not be AS accurate as a wideband, but he added that the narrow band will suffice.

 

Mostly because I won't be playing around with my tunes at all. I rely on the wonderful staff at LMS to hammer down the parameters on those.

 

My pal also said that a wideband is slightly more complicated in that I guess there's a need for some type of 3rd sensor installed somewhere within the exhaust (stream?) :noidea:

 

He did say that for my purposes, the narrow band would be fine as it would provide just enough information to clue me in as to whether or not some hanky is goin on under the hood.

 

I didn't ask him to go into details mind you, as like I said, it's his day off and what not, but I will try to obtain some type of "crash course" in this stuff when we go to install them.

 

In the interim Mark, like you, I'm all open to further discussion and explanations on the subject matter. I like learning new things about car stuff, whether that be aesthetics, or performance based :thumb:

 

The thing is a lot of mechanics don't realize that Ford is now using wideband O2s right from the factory... But it does sound like a narrow band gauge will serve you well.... What I don't know is if you can tie a narrow band gauge into a wideband sensor... ???

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The thing is a lot of mechanics don't realize that Ford is now using wideband O2s right from the factory...

 

Ok? Could you lend anymore light on the subject than that?

 

Mark and I are obviously interested in your expertise in this area, so please, do divulge.

 

I mean I'm not gonna just presume that your opinion of "a lot of mechanics" don't realize what Ford may or may not be using as being associated with my pal. He's pretty smart and hasn't steered me wrong in any of my performance mods in over 8 years worth of history together.

 

Whether it pertains to the SHO, or any other previous car builds I've rock'd over the years.

 

Again, just looking for sound, factual based info on the subject matter. I'm all ears...... errrr, well maybe "eyes" since I'll actually be reading your replies *wink *wink

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Ok? Could you lend anymore light on the subject than that?

 

Mark and I are obviously interested in your expertise in this area, so please, do divulge.

 

I mean I'm not gonna just presume that your opinion of "a lot of mechanics" don't realize what Ford may or may not be using as being associated with my pal. He's pretty smart and hasn't steered me wrong in any of my performance mods in over 8 years worth of history together.

 

Whether it pertains to the SHO, or any other previous car builds I've rock'd over the years.

 

Again, just looking for sound, factual based info on the subject matter. I'm all ears...... errrr, well maybe "eyes" since I'll actually be reading your replies *wink *wink

 

Sorry, no offense to any mechanics out there! Basically cars have been coming with only narrow band O2 sensors for years and years. They are cheaper and they get the job done. So a lot of people just simply assume their new Fords just had the plain old standard narrow bands... But then Ford start putting in widebands! So now instead of having to install a 3rd sensor like you mentioned, I can simply plug in my DashHawk (odb reader) and I can monitor my AFR.

 

 

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I agree with you Mike, unfortunately with the new vehicle electronics and such, I know enough to get in trouble (lol). I too would like an explanation of narrow vs wideband since I am unfamiliar with this. Also, it's one of the reasons I have not ordered gauges yet, I am undecided on what I want to put in my gauge pod, besides a boost gauge. But I am at a lost after that, I think I would like a real oil pressure gauge, but still trying to decide on a 3rd gauge. Back to subject...any explanation on the difference between narrow and wideband gauges, that would enlightened us (and others I suspect) would certainly be appreciated.

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I agree with you Mike' date=' unfortunately with the new vehicle electronics and such, I know enough to get in trouble (lol). I too would like an explanation of narrow vs wideband since I am unfamiliar with this. Also, it's one of the reasons I have not ordered gauges yet, I am undecided on what I want to put in my gauge pod, besides a boost gauge. But I am at a lost after that, I think I would like a real oil pressure gauge, but still trying to decide on a 3rd gauge. Back to subject...any explanation on the difference between narrow and wideband gauges, that would enlightened us (and others I suspect) would certainly be appreciated.[/quote']

 

A narrow band will basically only tell you rich, lean or stoic (14.7:1). A wideband has as the name implies a wider range and can tell you the actual AFR from like 9.6:1 to 20:1..... This is just a quick overview....

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A narrow band will basically only tell you rich' date=' lean or stoic (14.7:1). A wideband has as the name implies a wider range and can tell you the actual AFR from like 9.6:1 to 20:1..... This is just a quick overview....[/b']

 

Enjoying the "overview"..... I may go fire up a bag of popcorn and prepare for the full lesson hopefully forthcoming.

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Enjoying the "overview"..... I may go fire up a bag of popcorn and prepare for the full lesson hopefully forthcoming.

 

Sitting in my recliner with the iPad so no long novels from me... LOL

 

But you may want to check these:

 

http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20Tuning/AF%20Ratio%20Basics.html

 

http://www.wmswideband.com/tech.htm

 

http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_answer.aspx?sid=1&qid=48

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Hhmmm....just finished reading the first page of the first article and it raises a few questions. It states that stoic or 1.0 may mean 14.7 lbs of air. I would if that is really what it means, because it seems strange that 14.7 is the theoretic air pressure at sea level. I wonder if the article means that for idea mixture it needs 14.7 lbs of air pressure or really 14.7 lbs. of air? I will read on. I do find this very interesting...thanks for posting the links. I actually understand this...has something to do with diving, mixed gas, partial pressures of gas, etc!

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