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Gauge Pod


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We are making very slow, but steady progress this week on my installs.....

 

Today we got my gauges hooked up (well at least all the power to them).

 

All the sensors are in place, but we called it a night after having gotten a very late start today.

 

Here's a pic of at least my gauges illuminated only...... I was quite pleased with their overall appearance.

 

Not only because of Chris's absolutely out-of-this world gauge pod, but also with how well the officially licensed set Ford Racing Series gauges coincides with the OEM instrument cluster.

 

This pic is horse poop in comparison to seeing them in person, but yea, both the gauges and Chris's pod are kick @ss for sure :thumb:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys I just got my MyCal for LMS today I just had to set in there to see how it looks. [ATTACH=CONFIG]311[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]312[/ATTACH] and I like the decal they send [ATTACH=CONFIG]313[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]314[/ATTACH]can't wait until tomorrow when I get the custom tune for my car.:D

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That's a real nice install. Love the faceplate...

 

 

Looking good Mike! LED placement is perfect IMO....

 

 

Seeing those Ford gauges illuminated may have just made up my mind on which ones I am going to order. They look great!

 

D'oH! I almost forgot to post up the view of my gauges (and pod) from both the Driver's seat, as well as from the Rear seat, sorry about that. Here 'ya go....

 

 

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Mike if you don't stop with the pictures of the gauge pod installed, you will tempt me to order the gauges now, instead of waiting until I have a bit more cash saved...then I will be in trouble with the Mrs....and since she doesn't know you, I will have a tough time convincing her that you made me do it!!:behindsofa:

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Mike if you don't stop with the pictures of the gauge pod installed' date=' you will tempt me to order the gauges now, instead of waiting until I have a bit more cash saved...then I will be in trouble with the Mrs....and since she doesn't know you, I will have a tough time convincing her that you made me do it!!:behindsofa:[/quote']

 

That why I got the MyCal so I can unplug the electironic gauges and head uint (it does not remind her)every time she get in the car. Plus it only $200 more that LMS SCT TUNE.[ATTACH=CONFIG]361[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]362[/ATTACH] and you get all kind of extra goodies see LMS MyCal list of things.

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Hey guys just want to point out that I opened up a classified on this site for my gauge pod. With new prices, to be honest the interest hasn't been what I had expected with the 2nd run of these. And the only thing I could figure that has been putting people off is the price. So I hope that those that have inquired recently find pricing more appealing. This whole project was a 1st for me from start to finish and I am trying to figure it all out to where I fit into the market and pricing.

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Ok here is some info hopefully it will be usefully.8e4f6381.jpg

this is plastic pry tool, great for removing trim and such. This what its called and model number there various place on the web that it can be ordered. #CRL216 CRL Tapered Plastic End Stick Tool.

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slide in along edge and lift on each corner.

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holes and my wiring7f47d032.jpg

the tab in the center will need to be snipped off, for clearance of the center gauge.

removal of knee covera71e002f.jpg11009625.jpg

remove 2 7mm bolts

then carefully pull cover.

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this where I mounted map sensor for boost gauge, can not be mounted under the hood.877665fa.jpg

holes for wiring and vac line in fire wall. Ok her I add more photos illustrating how routed wiring threw engine compartment. Hole where drill thru firewall near steering shafts then come up near master cylinder then across strut tower brace. The vacuum line can be T'd closer to the brake booster. Mine I originally T'd when I mounted MAP sensor on passenger strut tower and quickly found that is wasn't supposed to be mounted under hood after ist malfunctioned . The wiring continues across brace past strut tower to water temp sensor mount on upper radiator hose and the last sensor wire continues down to the under side to oil pressure sensor. I really should have photo documented when I originally did but it was done in some of the hottest days of summer late at night over the course of a few nights. But for you guys that opted for the same gauges as I you will want make yourself a wiring harness. note the pig tails that come with your gauges don't mix them up, they look the same but there not. Label them Your powered wires will all go to the same place as well the ground so you can tie all your power wires together along with whatever lighting option wire you want. I believe if memory serves me correctly they can be lit blue, white,and red. Also they can be lit one color during the day a different color at night. I didn't opt to do that so have no info on.To make my harness I bought from harbor freight 4 different spools of wire wire loom, shrink tub a assortment of electric connectors, some self taping sheet metal screws. The harness I made was about 5-6 feet long to reach the fuse panel and fire wall once thru firewall I added to with wire splices, I recommend the ones with the heat shrink tub around them. And ran out wire to there destinations, make sure you give yourself extra. Then organize into the wire loom and zip tie into place.

 

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mini fuse tap to power it all.5a2b8ae5.jpg

 

coolant sensor adaptor 32mm for prosport.com. disregard color when ordering, I order the wrong size. For the coolants sensor adaptor you will need to remover upper radiator hose. 1st you will need to drain some coolant out of the system this can be done by open the drain plug on drivers side radiator. Catch and reuse. Once hose off I cut and splice in adaptor in the longest straight sect of the hose, measure length of body of the adaptor and remove from hose. Install and replace hose and coolant. And then connect wiring to sensor.

 

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oil pressure sender and adaptor plate size M22 x 1.5 from prosport.com

M22 x 1.5 Also I should mention as I looked over what I have written so far the plug next to the A/C compress on the adapter plate will need grind down for clearance or go to the hardware to get one with a allen key head. This pretty simple install. Much like changing the oil filter. 1st install plugs and sensor in adaptor plate. Note the clearance issue as mentioned previously. install seal and mount adaptor plate, and remount oil filter. The connect electrical connections.

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I will continue to add more to as time goes on. All of you have my email feel free to contact me. I am usually very quick to respond. I will be very happy to help.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry for the year old thread revival. I'm installing sensors one at a time and ran into a snag.

 

I don't know if things have changed for 2013, but 32mm is not the right size for the upper radiator hose. Everything else was spot on.

 

I'll post back up once I figure out what size is needed.

 

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Sorry for the year old thread revival. I'm installing sensors one at a time and ran into a snag.

 

I don't know if things have changed for 2013, but 32mm is not the right size for the upper radiator hose. Everything else was spot on.

 

I'll post back up once I figure out what size is needed.

 

Was it to small? Or big? When posting originally I used there spec to determine what size I needed by measuring outside hose diameter and subtracting 5 or 6mm to get the inner ID of the hose. This formula gave me a size of 38mm which is to large, but was able to shoe horn hoses on and use. But when posting this thread I actually measured the inside ID of hose which is 32mm on my 2011. Sorry for the inaccuracies but please post your findings what is the ID of your hose? What size adapter are you using?

 

Also did you splice in the same area as I did mine? I know when I measured the outside ID of hose it was large at the ends then it was in the middle.

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Here's my dilema.

 

I test fit the adapter by just holding it in the end of the hose before I cut it. The hose was so large on the adapter that you could hold it in the mouth of the hose without it touching the sides at all.

 

Didn't think that the end of the hose was molded larger than the area where the cut will be made.

 

If I go ahead and cut the hose, and the adapter is indeed too small, I've got an immobile car until the mess is sorted out. That's not an option for me. (especially since it took Prosport about 6 weeks to get the adapter to me.)

 

I guess what I need to do is go ahead and order a larger adapter just in case, keep the one that fits the best, and return the other.

 

I'll let you know exactly which adapter I end up going with.

 

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