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bpd1151's Meth Injection Install.....


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1st, I apologize for not having gotten around to creating this thread sooner. Between my 3 kid's schedules, my shoulder surgery and resulting recovery, things have been hectic to say the least.

 

I have thoroughly enjoyed my Alky Control's Full Methanol Injection kit which I purchased through Livernois Motorsports since it's install.

 

There is a distinct, noticeable difference when the pump is spraying in relation to throttle response and acceleration.

 

To start, I must thank the following four people for providing technical and install assistance while this project was commencing:

 

EB Forums Supporting Vendor Mr. Rick LeBlanc from Livernois Motorsports

EB Forums Premium Members Darrell (a.k.a. Darreli) & Chris (a.k.a. crash712us)

Mr. Matt Hencinski, Owner of 'Auto Wizard' dba Manhattan Auto Works located in Manhattan, IL.

 

Without their assistance, I probably would've had a more difficult time installing this kit.

 

2nd, I highly recommend that this kit be installed either with the help of a professional mechanic, or exclusively by a professional.

 

Now that's not to imply that this can't be done individually, because it can, but in the event of "hiccups" sure is good to have a professionally trained mechanic nearby to help out with any encountered issues.

 

That being said, I don't plan on doing one of my traditional "How-To's" which normally encompasses a parts list, necessary tools needed, etc.

 

My intent on creating this thread is more or less for it to be used a mere "guideline / template" rather than an actual step by step tutorial.

 

Total install time was approximately 15 hours. My mechanic pal and I each worked on this project for about 3 hours, per day, for 5 days straight.

 

I never once pressured him to complete this with any deadline in mind and understanding that this was one of his "fun" projects that distracted him from the mundane routine of his normal repair business, I worked at his pace and was at his mercy.

 

I will tell you that I ended up spending almost an additional $200 in hoses, convoluted cloth tubing, extra connectors/fittings, extra wiring to complete looms from control boxes through the fire wall and to the pump, low tank sensor, etc. a pack of large, 14" zip ties, heat shrink tubing for electrical connections and finally industrial grade double sided velcro.

 

The kit from LMS did not include these items. The kit as I received included the following:

 

The Pump Itself

The Progressive Control Box

A Smaller, Control Box That Has a Test Button & Manual Knob For Activating The System

The Nozzle Itself

A 3 bar MapV Sensor

A Low Tank Sensor

An Inline Brass Filter

Brass Fitting For OEM Reservoir

Two (2) Plastic Reservoirs.... One Small One & One Medium Sized One

Two (2) LED lights..... (One Is Solid Red & Used As A Low Tank Warning Light, The Other a 2-stage LED That Illimuniates Red When The Meth Pump Is 1st Priming & Then Green When The Meth Pump Is Actually Spraying)

All Necessary Electrical Wiring Harnesses & Relays To Perform Required Connections

 

 

Top notch kit and my mechanic pal was really impressed with the relays and wiring harnesses that were provided. He was very complimentary routinely commenting on the fact that "you don't see this type of quality with most kits, very nice, good stuff here".

 

So it goes w/o saying that the entire front bumper clip will need to be removed, as will the airbox (whether stock, or aftermarket) as well as removing the decorative plastic engine shroud / cover.

 

Once that was done, we installed the pump on the driver's side, as seen in this pic below. **note, we did relocate the horns**

 

001.jpg

 

 

Next up, installed the brass fitting into the bottom of the OEM Reservoir which is now acting as the on board Methanol Tank (located on psgr side)

 

002.jpg

 

 

Then we ran all of the hoses.

 

1st, we used black, reinforced rubber tubing leading from the Methanol Reservoir to the Inlet side of the Meth Pump (as there's no pressure)

 

From the tank:

 

002-2.jpg

 

 

Around & towards the backside of the front frame rail:

 

003-3.jpg

 

 

Zip tied it to the back side of the front frame rail and ran it towards the pump on the driver's side:

 

002-3.jpg

 

 

Then connected it to the Meth Pump:

 

001-3.jpg

 

 

Next we chose to use stainless steel braided hose (expensive) to run from the Outlet Side of the Meth Pump, to the Nozzle. Rick stated that the Meth Pump operates at about, or near, 200psi thus the reason why we chose to go with this type of hose in this application:

 

009.jpg

 

 

Ran it up towards the top of the motor, but under the plastic covering so it was partially hidden, and installed the in-line filter:

 

011.jpg

 

 

We then completely removed the plastic intake as we chose to mount the spray nozzle on the UNDERSIDE of same:

 

003-2.jpg

 

 

Completed final hose connections here:

 

013.jpg

 

001-2.jpg

 

 

Next up, mounting of the Progressive Control Box, and Smaller Control Box.

 

1st, here's a pic of the Progressive Control Box:

 

Front:

 

007.jpg

 

 

Back/Reverse: **Note velcro and the battery cover looking thing on the far right in this pic**

 

008.jpg

 

 

Prior to mounting, remove the battery cover and look inside. Make sure your rheostats are set to, or look like this image below:

 

IMG957495.jpg

 

 

We chose to mount this Progressive Control Box inside the glove box, to the far right (psgr side of car) in an open cavity / well, very sneaky, but this provides ease of access in the event it should ever need to be checked or w/e in the future.... in these images below, I was contorted in some odd manner in the psgr side foot well, looking upwards at the mounting location so y'all have a point of reference in where I'm aiming the camera from:

 

004-2.jpg

 

006-1.jpg

 

 

Next, we drilled a hole in the back of the glove box itself, and then used velcro again to mount the Smaller Control Box here:

 

003.jpg

 

 

After that, we then had to drill a hole in the fire wall. The best location to do so (as provided by crash712us) is/was just slightly to the left of the steering column shaft. There's a blue piece of plastic that's at the base of the steering shaft as noted in this pic here:

 

002-1.jpg

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Then we pulled all the wiring through: **Note, there's extra wires pictured here due to us installing my gauges at the same time as this Meth Kit**

 

005-1.jpg

 

004-1.jpg

 

 

Mounted the power relay / junction: **Driver's side of engine compartment, near the fuse panel / box**

 

001-1.jpg

 

An important note when tying in this power relay..... we had a bitch of a time trying to find a true "hot" source. You will want to tie into fuse #46 inside the fuse box found on the Driver's side of the car. This will provide power when the car is in start and run modes only, but NOT when in accessory mode.

 

See/Refer to this wiring schematic below:

 

Untitled-1.jpg

 

 

Next up, was swapping out the OEM 2 bar Map sensor with the new 3 bar MapV sensor.

 

I initially made the dumb mistake of swapping out the incorrect sensor. There are 2 Map sensors, one "pre" which is located within the plastic throttle body / intake pipe. You DO NOT want to switch out this one.

 

The CORRECT sensor to swap out is the "post" sensor which is located directly a top the intake itself. See/Refer pic below:

 

008-1.jpg

 

 

Also, you will need to run one of the power wires from the relay / junction box to this new 3 bar MapV sensor. You will want to tap into Pin #1.

See/Refer pic below:

 

3barMapVSensorElectricalTieIn.jpg

 

 

We then moved onto mounting the two (2) included plastic reservoirs.

 

1st, we pulled the pump unit off of the OEM tank and then had to drill a hole in the bottom of the included MEDIUM sized reservoir and mount the pump onto this reservoir. This will be used as the new / replacement windshield washer fluid tank.

 

We also had to drill a hole into the top of this exact same tank in order to mount the included low tank sensor.

 

It should be noted here that the bottom edges of the black cap located at the top of this MEDIUM sized tank needed to shaved down in order to be able to screw the cap down/shut, but it also needed to be able to "clear" the diameter of the low tank sensor installed next to it.

 

If you look closely, you'll see the jagged edges towards the bottom of the black cap.

 

One last hole had to be drilled opposite of the low tank sensor hole, where we installed a plastic, 90 degree elbow fitting in order to run the tubing from this point, to the smaller, included reservoir which me and Darrell have termed the "Remote Fill Tank".

 

Once the three holes were drilled, and all the fittings, pumps, sensors were mounted into the tank, it looked like this:

 

004.jpg

 

 

Next, we mounted this MEDIUM sized tank, above, and next to, what used to be the OEM washer fluid tank, but is now the on board Methanol Reservoir:

 

016.jpg

 

 

We also re-wired each low tank sensor, and essentially swapped them around. This way, the OEM "Low Washer Fluid" idiot light that is found within the factory instrument panel lights up when this new / replacement tank is low on washer fluid, and then alternatively, the low tank sensor on what is now the Meth Tank will illuminate the single stage, red LED that was supplied with the kit itself.

 

Sleek I must say.

 

Next up, we had to drill a single hole into the bottom of the included SMALLER "Remote Fill Tank".

 

Installed a straight, plastic fitting into this hole and then ran clear plastic tubing from the bottom of this SMALLER tank, to the 90 degree elbow located at the top of the MEDIUM sized tank:

 

006.jpg

 

005.jpg

 

 

Then we mounted the smaller tank behind the coolant overflow tank, and attached it to the outside metal part of the psgr side strut tower:

 

015.jpg

 

 

One of the last things we did was to drill two small holes into the bottom portions of the gauge pod, between each of the three gauges.

 

I chose this location quite honestly because I didn't really like the location where Darrell had his installed.

 

I installed the 2 stage LED on the left, between the Trans Temp Gauge (to the far left) and the Boost Gauge (middle). This is the LED light that illuminates RED when the Meth Pump is priming, and then GREEN when it's actually spraying.

 

The 2nd LED, which is a single stage light that only illuminates RED, I chose to install to the right, in between the Boost Gauge (middle) and the Pyrometer Gauge (to the far right). This LED only illuminates if the Meth Tank is running low:

 

ModifiedGaugePodWithLED.jpg

 

001-4.jpg

 

 

That pretty much completes your install.

 

Alky Controls DOES include a full set of instructions with the kit, however we did end up having to call Julio over there to inquire about the power relay / junction box as even though that piece was included in the kit, there was nothing about installing it found anywhere within the instructions.

 

I chose to err on the side of safety and installed a fire extinguisher in the trunk of my SHO just as an added measure of safety:

 

Untitled.jpg

 

 

And of course, you know it wouldn't be me, if I didn't openly advertise my latest mod, so I also chose to completely go against the grain of the "sleeper" motif by placing this verbage just underneath my 'TWIN TURBO' decals (thanks also to ClassicCars 'Ken' for doing this):

 

TTMIHoodDecals.jpg

 

 

One final note, LMS strongly recommends using the following meth fuel.... it is VP Racing's M1 100% Methanol:

 

2012-05-02_00-16-30_164.jpg

 

 

I typically purchase the 5 gal containers which run me $38 + tax from my local speed shop not too far from my home.

 

 

I hope for those of you sitting on the fence about this mod, really, REALLY consider purchasing this kit from our official EB Forums SUPPORTING VENDOR Livernois Motorsports and install same into your SHO.

 

Y'all thought that your LMS tunes woke up your car.... ha! This mod alone turns your SHO into an entirely new beast! Bar none!

 

Hope the 2 hours plus I spent writing up this thread is also of some use to those of you looking to install these kits yourself, or for those of you who aren't necessarily within reasonable driving distance to LMS's facility in Michigan.

 

Any questions, or anything I might've missed, feel free to post up, or shoot me a PM, I'll do my best to answer each as it's presented.

 

Enjoy :wave:

 

Mike :yo:

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Awesome write up Mike!

 

Thank you sir :hail:

 

This write up seemed to take longer for some reason. :noidea:

 

Perhaps it was the inclusion of 36 pictures :doh:

 

 

 

Oh yeah, btw..... as a side note for all of you who read this write up.....

 

 

It goes w/o saying that you absolutely MUST have a new tune when running this Methanol Kit!

 

I just re-read my own write up and it looks like that was the only comment I failed to insert in my original posting(s).

 

 

 

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Awesome write up Mike!

 

When do you start charging admission for rides?

 

Brian

 

 

For you my friend, especially since you provide the entire community with various TSB's and other "Technicals".......

 

You're more than welcome to take her for a spin yourself. Just gotta coordinate schedules. :thumb:

 

Glad you like the write up.

 

Not my traditional, step-by-step "How-To" tutorial mind you...... but it's close enough.

 

Like I suggested, this should be looked at as more of template/guideline/reference for a pro install, rather than from an individual perspective.

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Nice Write up!..

 

 

Wondering if you could mount the pump behind the Engine coolant tank like I did? That would cut your install time by hours, and would shorten the distance between pump and spray nozzle. It also means that the system can be removed if dealer engine service is needed. Realize the holding tank would be lower than the pump, but these pumps are designed to pull w/m from tanks in the trunk or other locations that require pulling the fluids upwards. Suppose you could add a separate tank high in the engine bay and turn pump upside down in the location I installed, but mine is upright and draws thru the top of the windshield washer tank. I can purge this tank using the pump and a separate container, so I don't have to keep solution in tank full time. Also works for blending if one isn't spraying 100% Methanol. Obvious advantage to 100% Methanol is consistency for tuning. ( one less variable). However, you must remember that any Methanol solution over 50% is highly Flammable.

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Nice Write up!

 

Thank you EBB, I try, as always :thumb:

 

 

What are we looking at for horsepower and trq with this setup?

 

Not entirely sure there Steve O..... :noidea:

 

I would defer that answer to Rick from LMS (as that is the kit I have installed).

 

However, maybe Torrie from Unleashed Tuning will also chime in with an answer as he sells a kit also.

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My Flex dyno'd at 369 HP & 409 LBS torque on Dynojet 424 Linx (just like Livernois dyno). Temp was 74 deg. IF... the AWD system only loses 20% efficiency (likely very low), my engine would show 460 hp & 501 LBS Torque at flywheel. At a 30% loss, it would be about 530 hp & 584 lbs torque which is definitely optimistic. With 100% Methanol, you might be able to do even better. The dyno charts are located in the Flex section of this Forum for your info.

 

I was running about 75% methanol, 25% water, and a 3 bar tune + BAP. My w/m system (from Torrie) is not progressive, and is either spraying or not. This hurts dyno results due to too much spray at lower rpms on dyno, making the results show a rich condition & according to the dyno operator, hurt the max figures we got. In real world performance, one would not be locking into a single gear, like one does for a dyno pull. So in reality my Lambda - A/F numbers were almost perfect in Torrie's tune(s) I dyno'd.

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My Flex dyno'd at 369 HP & 409 LBS torque on Dynojet 424 Linx (just like Livernois dyno). Temp was 74 deg. IF... the AWD system only loses 20% efficiency (likely very low), my engine would show 460 hp & 501 LBS Torque at flywheel. At a 30% loss, it would be about 530 hp & 584 lbs torque which is definitely optimistic. With 100% Methanol, you might be able to do even better. The dyno charts are located in the Flex section of this Forum for your info.

 

I was running about 75% methanol, 25% water, and a 3 bar tune + BAP. My w/m system (from Torrie) is not progressive, and is either spraying or not. This hurts dyno results due to too much spray at lower rpms on dyno, making the results show a rich condition & according to the dyno operator, hurt the max figures we got. In real world performance, one would not be locking into a single gear, like one does for a dyno pull. So in reality my Lambda - A/F numbers were almost perfect in Torrie's tune(s) I dyno'd.

 

 

Have you guys had any drivetrain issues with these numbers? Anything at all? Good God, those are steep numbers for this engine/trans setup! :RpS_ohmy:

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Once again Mike...another awesome 'How To'. Can't say enough about the effort you put in documenting your mods!!

 

Regarding the dip switches you mentioned inside the battery cover. The pictures shows a couple of what looks like rheostats. Do they have to be adjusted for calibration after the kit install? Did you drop by Rick's to get this dyno adjusted?

 

Meth injection is on top of my wish list but I am trying to figure out how to hide the contraction from the dealer for warranty repairs...lol.

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How long does a tank of meth in your car last for?

 

That depends on one's usage.

 

My set up doesn't constantly spray, rather.....

 

My pump begins priming somewhere around 7.5-8psi & immediately sprays right afterwards.

 

If you were to be constantly romp'n on it, I suppose you'd go through a crapload of Meth Fuel.

 

Me? Well I've completely burned through my 1st 5gal pail since install, and I'm about a 1/4 of the way through my 2nd, 5gal pail currently.

 

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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Once again Mike...another awesome 'How To'. Can't say enough about the effort you put in documenting your mods!!

 

Regarding the dip switches you mentioned inside the battery cover.

 

The pictures shows a couple of what looks like rheostats.

 

Do they have to be adjusted for calibration after the kit install?

 

Did you drop by Rick's to get this dyno adjusted?

 

1st, thanks MelC for the kudos. Part of the reasons my installs average a lil longer than what is typically experienced, is due to the fact of me having the fore thought to take pictures of the process, all along the way, from beginning to end. Knowing that inevitably, i'll be posting a write up, up on the boards to help out others.

 

As far as your questions.....

 

My bad on the incorrect terminology in regards to 'dip switches' VS. 'rheostats'..... I'm going in and editing my OP now. It was late when I posted that and I was growing tired quickly.

 

I did not adjust them, but they came that way from the supplier. I double checked my settings with Darrell's & found they were the same.

 

I haven't been to LMS yet for a post install dyno, but plan on doing so sometime in June, or July at the latest.

 

My Dad has a place (in MI.) about 2hours from LMS and i'm also waiting for the vendor who started my catless down pipes, & hard intake pipe to complete that mod, so I can button up that install before heading out for some much needed dyno time @ LMS.

 

 

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Have you guys had any drivetrain issues with these numbers?

 

Anything at all?

 

Good God, those are steep numbers for this engine/trans setup!

 

I would hope that Darrell , EBB , or Scrming would chime in on this topic, as I am the latest, most recent owner to install a Meth Kit onto this platform, so their experiences would hold more weight IMHO as they've each respectively been operating their kits for a longer period of time than I.

 

That stipulation being stated, I haven't experienced any issues whatsoever thus far.

 

I would hope also that Darrell , or perhaps even Rick from LMS would present some dyno / tq #'s for his set up (Darrell's) as his, like mine, is running straight, 100% Meth.

 

We'll see...... :noidea:

 

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Have you guys had any drivetrain issues with these numbers? Anything at all? Good God' date=' those are steep numbers for this engine/trans setup! :RpS_ohmy:[/quote']

 

First off... this is a great writeup! My install was done by the folks at MRT and we completed it over the course of two Saturdays... We also pulled the front fascia to mount the pump and tank... Since my setup is a "Race Track Only" we didn't bother with the low fluid sensor or switching the washer tank with the meth tank..

 

Ok.. Here is my dyno showing:

 

BLUE - STOCK TUNE

RED - LMS STAGE 4+

GREEN - LMS STAGE 4+ with 100% methanol

 

4Plus_Methanol.jpg

 

Since that dyno we've revised the tune a bit, so my numbers now should be a bit higher....

 

I think I've been to the track about 4 times now since the methanol went in... I would say I average about 8 passes a trip... so I would say it's fair to say i have at least 30 passes (1/4 mile) with the methanol... also have some street testing... so far everything has held up!

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My system uses a Snow Pump that potentially can put out 250 PSI, thru a #10 nozzle. I started spraying with a #7 nozzle (number relates to amount of gal per hour at 100 psi) & a solution of 50 -50 Methanol/Water called "Boost Juice" that I ordered by the case from Summit Racing (4 Gal(. I then bought 2 gal of 100% methanol from my local IA Strip. Believe it was about $4. a gal vs Bradenton, where they want $10. per gal. I then added straight methanol to my 50/50 and pumped it out several times into a jug so it was well mixed. It was a mix of about 75% that I got the 4 good runs in Jan when it was 70+. My earlier 12.904 was done on a less extreme tune, the #7 nozzle, about 60% methanol & NO DR's with serious traction issues on most runs. However, I was running a 3 bar sensor which allows for higher boost levels, that are peaky, but are consistently over 16 psi. I was also running a Kenne Bell BAP to make sure DI pump gets all the fuel it can handle. The dyno sheets and testing were done with tunes that were developed later and had been revised based on the logging at the track in Oct, and on other testing, so likely were about the most I can get out of the Flex, short of 100% methanol, or further engine/turbo mods.

 

I have never had any issues with my turbos or with my tranny & drive train. Did have a plug that ceramic cracked (old # plugs from 2009) and another coding issue that required a new strategy code. None of this was due to the tunes. Surprisingly, my Flex now shifts better and has a "seat of the pants feeling" that it is quicker as stock now, than it was before the new strategy code, so Ford seemingly has helped drivability. However, it likely really isn't quicker overall. Again... another thing I hope to test, as I never did stock base lines at the Strip.

 

Just got my o9' G8 GT out of storage, so will be concentrating on my "Stripping" with it this summer, once I get my 3,000 Circle D stall converter in place. So.. likely won't be Stripping with the Flex until fall. Besides, Scrming needs some time to be the "King of the Hill" of EB Flexdom! Taking a break from the "ragged edge".

 

With my smaller/lighter wheels, Front Nitto Drag Radials, and a DA of a few hundred feet below sea level, I estimate I might have knocked another tenth or 2 off my best. Cause a 12.95 with a DA over 500 and 70+ temps with engine heat sink issues, is nothing to sneeze at for a 5,000 BRICK!

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That depends on one's usage.

 

My set up doesn't constantly spray, rather.....

 

My pump begins priming somewhere around 7.5-8psi & immediately sprays right afterwards.

 

If you were to be constantly romp'n on it, I suppose you'd go through a crapload of Meth Fuel.

 

Me? Well I've completely burned through my 1st 5gal pail since install, and I'm about a 1/4 of the way through my 2nd, 5gal pail currently.

 

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 

That's ALOT dude! I didn't burn thru 5 gallons all last year!

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Wow! This thread grew fast. I'm not sure of my exact numbers to be honest. Maybe Rick has something he can post or I'll gladly go in there for a couple numbers only dyno pulls.

 

I can say I make enough power to run a 12.13 at the end of last season!

 

Drivetrain wise (knock on wood!) I haven't had a single issue. It's been tuned for about 36,000 miles now and no issues whatsoever.

 

I don't go thru nearly the methanol that Mikes been going thru...I went thru close to 5 gallons all year last year. I too run a 100% VP M1.

 

Hoping to get to the track soon! Got a serious itch. Hopefully with the new tires I can hit 11's. Otherwise I'm sure someone will run an 11 this year!

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Hey that's awesome news to me, I didn't want to be buying 5 gallons of methanol every month. I doubt my wife would like that kind of meth dependancy. Now that I've nearly got my cooler in, I think a meth kit and tune all in one shot is in order.

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