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DIY daytime running headlights


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Maybe this will help....

 

[ATTACH]587[/ATTACH]

 

You need a standard auto relay either in SPST (Single-Pole-Single-Throw) or a SPDT (Pictured / Single-Pole-Double-Throw)....12 volt 20 or 30 Amp.

 

Basically, you will cut the VT/WH (Hot) wires and connect them to the NO (Normally Open) side of the relay. As shown in my half a$$ schematic (I could not print the document direct from the site or I would have CAD drawn it), the "ACC" pushbutton on the dash will energize the relay coil causing it to switch 'ON' and 'OFF' the lamps.

 

If you are basic electronic handy, this should be pretty easy. If you need a ACC point to go to for power, let me know, and I'll look it up.

 

Good luck!

 

Brian

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Thanks for the quick reply.

 

I'm nowhere near handy with electric things.

 

I do however have a buddy that used to install car audio and can be paid in beer for his services.

 

 

That's one of THE BEST forms of payment for services renedered that I can think of.....

 

Been many a times I've arrived at a shop with several cases of beer in hand, and while preliminary work is beginning on my car (any of my mods apply here) I start stocking the refridgerators and then dive in and start help'n out with w/e applicable install may be occurring at said time.

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I'm surprise that in this day and age of DRL, Ford did not put one on the SHO. In fact I don't think they have them on their other vehicles either.

 

Brian - Having more experience with solid state semiconductors, how do auto relays hold up to having the coils energized all the time?

 

Thanks,

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Brian - Having more experience with solid state semiconductors, how do auto relays hold up to having the coils energized all the time?

 

Thanks,

 

I suppose you could ask your fuel pump. How often does the fuel pump relay fail? Generally less often than the pump itself, and the fuel pump relay is energized at all times while the car is running.

 

But, given that, with the small amount of current these LED lights likely draw, they would be a candidate for a simple FET switch or possibly no relay/FET at all. That being stated, I must say I've not measured the current draw of these lights yet to know how little current they really do draw.

 

-Rod

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I'm surprise that in this day and age of DRL, Ford did not put one on the SHO. In fact I don't think they have them on their other vehicles either.

 

 

 

Not on the MKS either - I too was shocked. Must be a reason...though I know Canada cars DO have DRL (SHO and MKS). I also seem to recall reading it may be something the dealer can activate for you (but regular headlights, not the cool SHO strips that you all have) .

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I do however have a buddy that used to install car audio and can be paid in beer for his services.

 

Have beer will install......

 

 

Brian - Having more experience with solid state semiconductors, how do auto relays hold up to having the coils energized all the time?

 

 

It's all based on 'duty cycle' (On/Off). A standard 30A relay from Radio Shack will probably survive 10 years at least. Being an Electronics Engineer allows the fun to begin with projects like these. Too bad I don't have the 2013 LED rear lamps. I would love to make them 'dance' (i.e. Mustang's rear turn signal strobe):becky:

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Thanks DB for the PDF schematic. Question for you, are you 100% sure the sidemarker lamp is that lower LED lamp on the bumper? When I hear sidemarker, I think of lights inside the headlamp.

I'm definitely thinking hard about doing thsi after seeing a few MB's running around town with their LED's lit up.

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are you 100% sure the sidemarker lamp is that lower LED lamp on the bumper?

 

Nope...

 

Just going off the schematic from Ford. I do believe these are called 'Side Marker Lamps' though. I personally have not looked, so I would just first verify the color of the wires to the connector before doing anything. There should be only two, hot and ground.

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JoJo not to sound dumb but leaving the knob in the ON position would turn on the headlights and leave them on and drain the battery. I only want the "fog lights" LED strips to stay on. I'm going to show my buddy that schematic and hope to hell he knows what to do. I have plenty of beer to pay him but not enough knowledge on my part to get this done =P

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JoJo not to sound dumb but leaving the knob in the ON position would turn on the headlights and leave them on and drain the battery. I only want the "fog lights" LED strips to stay on. I'm going to show my buddy that schematic and hope to hell he knows what to do. I have plenty of beer to pay him but not enough knowledge on my part to get this done =P

 

To make it even simpler, just run the side marker lamps (in parallel) to a 12V switched supply to the fuse box. Use an add-a-circuit fuse tap and you'll be well protected. This is probably what I'll end up doing as I want the LED light strips to come on & stay on whenever I turn the car on. LED lights have very little resistance, so they wont pull much current. Very simple and safe to do.

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That sounds way easier to do.....looks like im going to autozone/o'riely for those parts

 

They should definitely have the nice bussman add-a-circuit part. Run power from one of the fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay. If you don't have a tester/meter, Crash will probably be able to tell you which one to use since I think that's where he tapped to get +12v for his custom gauge pod (I used the fuse box under the dash for my pillar pod).

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Here is an issue, I've done more research and it seems the smart junction box will block the a DRL attempt if it's not reprogrammed to allow for it.

 

Also I was told by ford that DRLs are not available for this car. Will this cause issues?

 

Hmmm, that's interesting. I'm curious to know the answer to that as well.

 

I don't see how removing the LED strip lights from the circuit will affect anything.

Here's a test worth trying: I'm sure the LED lights have a connector. Unplug them and drive around for a couple of days and see what happens. I'd be surprised you'd get any error from having a blown LED light, much less one thats unplugged. You'd be essentially removing the LED light from the circuit anyway if you run separate power to the fuse box. So I think the aforementioned would be a valid test.

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Ah ok' date=' well I was just making sure. Im kinda anal retentive, especially before I go cutting wires and what not[/quote']

 

No worries, I'm the same with my cars. For piece of mind, before you cut into anything, unplug the LED lights and drive around with it like that. I'd bet my paycheck you wont have any issues.

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