mjhpadi Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 If the 10 was built in March of 2010, it is a late model 10 and is a job 2 car. I am not surprised that you are having a problem finding a 12 SHO, there certainly are a lot less of them out there then you realize, remember the 2010 production was less then 7500 cars total. Divide that by 50 states, and that roughly equals about 150 cars per state, if they were evenly divided...not many, especially in a state like Florida, and I would not be at all surprised if the production numbers for 12 is lower then the 10's, simply because of the changes for 13. I agree with mhenne4, I think I would rather have the loaded 10 then a stripped 12. Be aware if the 10 has the PP, it may need tires soon because the Goodyear's are only lasting about 20K miles, and that with the PP does not have a spare tire, these are not negatives, just something to be aware of, and maybe you could use to leverage a better deal. Good luck, hope all goes well with the deal whichever you decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 I was way off on build date--just got a PM from guy who looked up for me--10/9/09 build. Relevant to decision at hand? Not really, my build date was 11/30/09, however this is a job one car and will not have the pull down strap handle in the trunk and has interior light fixtures like the ones in my car vs the one's like bpd's (which is shown in his "how-to" about changing the interior bulbs to LED). You also may want to check to see if the 10 has had the peeling chrome on the taillights replaced and if the brake TSB has been performed. If not again information to use to sweeten the deal, because you will have to make return trips to the dealer to deal with these...again, Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Not really' date=' my build date was 11/30/09, however this is a job one car and will not have the pull down strap handle in the trunk and has interior light fixtures like the ones in my car vs the one's like bpd's (which is shown in his "how-to" about changing the interior bulbs to LED). You also may want to check to see if the 10 has had the peeling chrome on the taillights replaced and if the brake TSB has been performed. If not again information to use to sweeten the deal, because you will have to make return trips to the dealer to deal with these...again, Good luck.[/quote'] Peeling lights replaced Sept-10 and lumbar repaired oct-10. No brake TSB done. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 If the 10 was built in March of 2010' date=' it is a late model 10 and is a job 2 car. I am not surprised that you are having a problem finding a 12 SHO, there certainly are a lot less of them out there then you realize, remember the 2010 production was less then 7500 cars total. Divide that by 50 states, and that roughly equals about 150 cars per state, if they were evenly divided...not many, especially in a state like Florida, and I would not be at all surprised if the production numbers for 12 is lower then the 10's, simply because of the changes for 13. I agree with mhenne4, I think I would rather have the loaded 10 then a stripped 12. Be aware if the 10 has the PP, it may need tires soon because the Goodyear's are only lasting about 20K miles, and that with the PP does not have a spare tire, these are not negatives, just something to be aware of, and maybe you could use to leverage a better deal. Good luck, hope all goes well with the deal whichever you decide.[/quote'] I found 38 SHO's on auotrader within 50 mile radius. Did 300 miles out and came up with 402, but noticed non-SHO Taurus' mixed in--still gotta be 150 or so just on Autotrader. Yeah, the 10 sounds like better option...but...the 10 is 220 miles away and the new 12 about 45 minutes from here. I am not driving 220 miles without a lot of due diligence and just sent seller a note asking, if a price is agreed upon, would he meet me half way at a ford dealer for pre-purchase inspection. That seemed fair and shares the risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 While the options on the 10 are pretty compelling, it is not as if the base model is not pretty darn nice. Looking at the option list, the one thing missing from the 12 stripper that seems pretty important is that 3.16 final drive ratio in the PP--am I going to be really sorry later on when the tuning bug takes root? I don't want to be asking about changing the drive ratio later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 . I am kind of leaning toward the 10 with all the goodies, but have not ruled out the stripper '12, since it is a LOT closer to me. Personally, I would not make such a big decision based upon distance to selling dealer to any extent. You presumably will have the car for several years and a day of driving to get a new vehicle is not that big in the grand scheme of car ownership and getting what you really want. Just my opinion, again, first hand from making mistakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 That should mean it's a late 2010. When and if you see it, of course the month of build is on the drivers door. Steve who is one of the fastest SHO's, does not have the PP. You can always do what I did... Buy smaller/lighter tires and/or wheels. Mine are 18's, and I cut nearly 80 lbs off the unsprung weight, and lowered my axle ratio from 3.16 to 3.40. And, with the vehicle lowered with H & R's, I have slightly less clearance between tires and fenders. Looks stock (almost), though overall, it is 3" lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Personally' date=' I would not make such a big decision based upon distance to selling dealer to any extent. You presumably will have the car for several years and a day of driving to get a new vehicle is not that big in the grand scheme of car ownership and getting what you really want. Just my opinion, again, first hand from making mistakes.[/quote'] I hear ya on that. I'm not basing choice on distance, but the riskier used one is the 220 mile away one. If new from dealers, there would be no risk--just make a deal and make the drive to get it. But...if I am ambivalent between the 2 options...closer is better... If one of the interested buyers in my truck don't come through in next couple days, I am going to see what kind of deal can be had on strpper new 12 with trade. This new vs. used has turned out to be more difficult decision than expected. At least I know that a SHO is going to be my next car...the competing (for purchase) SRT is already in the garage....gonna be some fun summer cruising options soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 That should mean it's a late 2010. When and if you see it, of course the month of build is on the drivers door. Steve who is one of the fastest SHO's, does not have the PP. You can always do what I did... Buy smaller/lighter tires and/or wheels. Mine are 18's, and I cut nearly 80 lbs off the unsprung weight, and lowered my axle ratio from 3.16 to 3.40. And, with the vehicle lowered with H & R's, I have slightly less clearance between tires and fenders. Looks stock (almost), though overall, it is 3" lower. The car was built oct-20-09 per member who did a VIN inquiry for me--that would be "early" build? Hmmm....you guys have a workaround for everything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Not sure if this is any bearing on any of the ongoing conversations contained within in this thread, but here's an Official Ford VIN Decoder..... https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin_tools/default.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Not sure if this is any bearing on any of the ongoing conversations contained within in this thread, but here's an Official Ford VIN Decoder..... https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin_tools/default.asp Thanks, mike, but it has come down to input and dialogue on the new stripper 2012 vs nice loaded 2010. Pretty much just have to make the choice and start the fun part. As soon as I get an answer on whether the prospective buyers want my truck, I will hit the nearby dealer with or without the prospective trade-in, and then address the distant used option. It may not be finalized until next week, but I see (bright) light at end of the tunnel..... I took the SRT for a cruise last night, and based on comments in another thread on the potential relative performance parity of SHO VS SRT, well, I am pretty anxious to get a SHO in the other side of the garage. Even going easy on the SRT given just passing 100 mile mark, i kept thinking the whole time about the SHO being right in the same ballpark...oh yeah, baby.... Thanks again to all for the generous help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Another option might be to go to a local Ford store that you or a friend have had a positive experience, and have them do a locator for the 2012 SHO of your dreams. They can likely make you the same deal, and you will get the options and/or color you might prefer. You could also agree to go pick it up and save any possible transportation costs. My Flex came from a dealer 200 mi away, and they sent that dealer a Taurus, which the other dealer wanted. The $500. thru Ford Motor Credit, can be paid off after a couple months with no penalty, so it is almost free money. My son-in-law did that on his 2011 F-150 Lariat, and then ended up getting a home improvement loan, so he could deduct the interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Bob, it is a job one car and is not a late build, since both Mike's car and mine were built at mid-year production of SHO's...and the 10 he is considering was built before mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 I agree... was going from that 3-22-10 window sticker he was sent. Knew you would notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Another option might be to go to a local Ford store that you or a friend have had a positive experience, and have them do a locator for the 2012 SHO of your dreams. They can likely make you the same deal, and you will get the options and/or color you might prefer. You could also agree to go pick it up and save any possible transportation costs. My Flex came from a dealer 200 mi away, and they sent that dealer a Taurus, which the other dealer wanted. The $500. thru Ford Motor Credit, can be paid off after a couple months with no penalty, so it is almost free money. My son-in-law did that on his 2011 F-150 Lariat, and then ended up getting a home improvement loan, so he could deduct the interest. Thanks, Bob--I should have read the terms on the $500 finance credit--no brainier given no prepayment penalty. Also good point on asking dealer to find one optioned to my likes. Will call him and verify willing to do that. I went back to the Ford dealer a couple miles away and drove the loaded 2010 again today. The salesman was busy, so just threw me the keys and a plate to go drive around. Well, I gave it a good test drive. The one conclusion was that I was probably not going to be satisfied very long without a performance tune--the SRT scored last week and driven before the SHO ruined me--stock was just simply not enough power after going from bethind the wheel of our SRT. So, given warranty issues, it would be harder to pull the trigger on mods with a brand new car. I am assuming that Ford would still honor any warranty claims not related to performance mods, but not sure on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casperl878 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 hello, just a quick question if you could help me out, but y do you suggest or say its needed for a trans cooler and lwering springs? what is that actually for and where can i look into that please buddy? thanks for your help anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Another option might be to go to a local Ford store that you or a friend have had a positive experience, and have them do a locator for the 2012 SHO of your dreams. They can likely make you the same deal, and you will get the options and/or color you might prefer. You could also agree to go pick it up and save any possible transportation costs. My Flex came from a dealer 200 mi away, and they sent that dealer a Taurus, which the other dealer wanted. The $500. thru Ford Motor Credit, can be paid off after a couple months with no penalty, so it is almost free money. My son-in-law did that on his 2011 F-150 Lariat, and then ended up getting a home improvement loan, so he could deduct the interest. I went back and read the fine print on the $500 ford finance incentive--this caught my eye: "Not all Taurus SHO models may qualify." Will find out what that means unless somebody has used this recent incentive program and knows what this restriction means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I went back and read the fine print on the $500 ford finance incentive--this caught my eye: "Not all Taurus SHO models may qualify." Will find out what that means unless somebody has used this recent incentive program and knows what this restriction means. Still waiting for the call back from local Ford dealer with the new stripper 2012...but...I noticed that there is now a $1750 incentive on the 2013 (but must be from dealer stock). That makes the new 2012 option look less attractive--only $750 to $1250 (assuming the $500 finance incentive is allowed) more to get a model year newer 2013. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 No word from that private seller yet Jim? Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 No word from that private seller yet Jim? Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 Yes, I heard back from him over the weekend, but still discussing the price (and he does not have title yet from Ford Credit). I sure hope the eventual performance mods I will do put the SHO in SRT territory as noted in other threads. After taking the local used SHO for a spirited extended test drive Friday afternoon then driving my (wife's) SRT, well, the diff was night and day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Assume you noted that Livernois has developed a tune for 2013 that will be available by end of June. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Assume you noted that Livernois has developed a tune for 2013 that will be available by end of June. Thanks, and no, I had not seen that yet. I still have some reservations about tuning a brand new car due to warranty concerns...guess I better think twice about going new...not sure if I can resist the mod route for long... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Automotive companies are definitely getting tougher on warranty claims. A couple years ago, a G8 owner installed an OTR CAI (Over the Radiator- Cold Air Intake) from a minor player in the mod industry. He then drove to FL, the last portion of his trip in the rain. Parked his car, and the next day when he started it up, it quit running almost immediately. Turned out the OTR CAI had allowed water into his intake manifold, and the water got into the cylinders, and the motor hydro locked, bending rods. Had to purchase a long block as GM wouldn't warranty it due to CAI install. OUCH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1274 Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Update: the used seller has not responded to my message from 2 days ago, so that is not moving forward. After talking further with a Ford dealer today, I can order a 2013 any way I want it before 7/2 and get the $1750 incentive. The new 2012 is off the table given a new 2013 would only be $1250 more plus any general price increases. The dealer said the general discount beyond incentives would be same for both model years--2012 seems pointless without some add'l factory to dealer incentives to sweeten the deal. I perused the option list for 2013--will search the forum for comments on options and such to make an informed decision on the final spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Maybe your dealer could do a dealer trade for a 2013. Not sure how many are around but there have to be some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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