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JL Stealthbox Ordered


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Just ordered the Taurus Steathbox for the SHO. Does anyone already have one? Also looking at the AudioControl LC2i, if anyone can give me advice on this. Always replaced the factory stereo in prior vehicle but can't replace Ford My Touch. Will also dynamat the trunk. Already have it my F150 and love it. Will keep you all updated as progress goes.

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Good luck with that. I was looking at it this week, but not sure it's the route I want to go. I in particular don't know how it will fit in the wheel well w/o a spare while also keeping the mobility kit within the area. Let us know how it works out. Regarding the AudioControl unit, it's just what is known as a line-out converter. No big deal. However, if you plan to go beyond adding the subwoofer, I would consider upgrading to the JL Audio Cleansweep unit.

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I highly recommend using RAAMmat for sound deadening, mostly because it is cheaper than dynamat. It's the same stuff pretty much, but the guy runs it out of his garage and is awesome to work with. I did the entire floor and all 4 doors on my supercab F150 several years ago. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/njybei45cew5k5j/iaYA73TrMx The silver stuff is the sound deadening (i.e. dyanmat material) that is used to eliminate panel rattling and vibrations. The rolled up bunch on top of it in some pics and layed down in others is another material intended to capture ambient noise. But in cars, I wouldn't use the rolled up fabric in the trunk... not really needed.

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I bought my Dynamat on line fairly cheaply. I have it in both my G8's to sound deaden the exhaust noise in the rear seat!

 

Can't believe how sticky it is... we lost a cat about that time... and think she's probably buried (stuck tight) in the tire well.. or behind the battery..... No problem... didn't like her much anyway.

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Alright got the amp wire ran. Here are some things you have to do to run the wire.

 

Remove the cowl: made a lot easier with a battery terminal remover (thanks darreli).

Remove cover on wiper control arm, if you use a flathead screwdriver be careful. Remove control arm nut 15mm. Utilizing battery terminal remover, remove control arms taking note of the position they are in. Remove 6 fasteners folding cowl down, there are also one fastener near the end of each side windshield. Now removing the lower cowl there are two metal clips on each side, remove them careful not to drop them into the engine compartment. Now utilizing your fastener removal tool put the two white fasteners. Drill a hole through the firewall 3/4 or 7/8, near the drivers wiper and put a grommet to run wire through. Run wire through a large rubber cover (refer picture). Silicone after you have finished running the wire.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]790[/ATTACH]

 

Wire should come out near parking brake.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]792[/ATTACH]

 

Attached fuse for 4g amp wire along quarter panel near fuse box. Ran wire to battery. Trimmed a little bit off battery terminal cover to get wire to fit.

 

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Also since I am running a JL Amp, I put the JL Bass Control knob in. Had to remove the center console pieces. Staring at the top of the trim console trim pieces near the push start and trunk release. Carefully remove the trim with a trim remover.

 

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Once those are removed you will see the center console bolts 7mm. You have to remove all of them to get to the top cover (houses cigarette lighter outlet.) Now you will have to move the gear shifter down to remove the panel.

 

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Drilling a 3/8 hole, you can now place your bass control knob.

 

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Completed view.

 

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Now I am just finishing the dynamat and toying around with amp locations. Doing this install around my work schedule.

 

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Hope this helps.

 

(And I know some of you are going to say something about the KN, its temporary till I get the Airaid.)

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Looking good.

 

You will also want to upgrade the ground wire from your battery to the chassis to a 4ga, at the very least, but should also upgrade or add from your battery to the alternator in the same wire gauge. If you don't you may experience light dimming when the bass hits. It's called the "Big 3" upgrade... more info here: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

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Weirdness on the moderation stuff..

 

Anyway, you want to upgrade the "Big 3" ... 1) positive from battery to alternator 2) negative from battery to chassis 3) negative from engine ground to chassis

 

Without this, you may see lights dimming when the bass hits. You can find more info by searching google for the "Big 3" upgrade. I think my previous post was sent to moderation because I linked to another forum?

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Awesome man! Thanks for the write-up for running the power wire. That's the only reason I've been procrastinating this project, haha. Good idea for putting the base knob there as well. My amp remote doesn't have a knob that comes off, so I figure mine will be mounted in the console storage.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally finished the set up. Box was bigger than I thought JL packs stuff extremely well. Used a iPod classic as reference. Now in this install you will have to relocate your jack and accessories from the spare tire well, if you have a Non PP version. I do not know what the well looks like in a PP version.

 

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Now for the install. There are two wax pieces that you have to put down. Use picture for reference.

 

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After placing the wax strip in place, you will thread the two supplied Allen Head Set Screws into the bottom of the box, leaving approximately 3/4” exposed. Gently position it in the spare tire well. Then, put enough pressure on it to cause the two Allen Head Set Screws to mark the Wax Squares. Now remove the box vehicle making sure that the Wax Squares stay in place on the floor of the spare tire well. Now the scary part: using a 1/2” drill bit, drill through the marks in the two Wax Squares. Set the box back into the car, positioning it so that the Allen Head Set Screws come through the holes drilled. I had a friend help with this, I got under the car and guided him once I seas the screws. Make sure the speaker wire is hooked up before this step. Lesson Learned. From under the vehicle, secure the box in place by putting a 3/8” x 1 1/4” Fender Washer, 3/8” Split Lock Washer and 3/8 - 16 Hex Nut on each 3/8 - 16 x 2-1/4” Allen Head Set Screw, and tighten evenly using a 15mm ratchet.

 

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I went ahead and sprayed some under sealant to help protect the bolts.

 

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Insert and secure your spare tire.

 

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Now I had to wait on this to get shipped, because the distributor forgot to ship it. Insert the new floor covering.

 

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Hopes this helps anyone thinking of purchasing the Stealthbox, I really enjoy the sound of it, and you do not loose the trunk space as you would with a normal box.

 

Rob

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Very nice work. I am jealous. Does the sub perform better then expected? Or a little less? The carpet is in the kit as well?

 

Do you have any pics of the front side of the sub, The driver side?

 

The box performs better than I expected, I have to turn it down sometimes (when the wife is in the car.) Very impressed with it, and love not loosing trunk space. The carpet is included in the kit, but a different box. The distributor forgot to ship it (even though it says to on the packing list.) So I had to call JL and they drop shipped it to me. And sorry no pictures of the front, forgot to take some. But, it is basically looks like a horseshoe with the sub in the middle. The sub has a grill cover and has enough room for speaker movement.

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  • 2 months later...

I am assuming your system has the 6 by 9 subs in the rear deck and you just left them connected, using the JL to augment the low end? The Stealthbox is on my short list of sub options for a major upgrade of my non-Sony system (without rear deck 6 by 9's) and had some concerns on the performance given the trunk seems to be fairly well sealed from the cabin (especially on one like mine with a solid rear shelf surface and insulation layer underneath)--that does not seem to be an issue from your comments.

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