Jump to content
Ecoboost Owner Forums

Racing Question...


Recommended Posts

When you guys race at the track, because I'm sure no one here EVER street races.. ;) when you're in the beams or at the light do you footbrake your car? And if you do what RPM do you bring it up to? Or do you just put the hammer down? Just getting an opinion.. Tried footbraking the car only up to about 1k rpm's didn't seem to make a whole lot of a difference... So what do you guys think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I foot brake to the max! Some times the brakes don't hold and i creep a bit... Think I can power brake up to about 1800 RPM...i really don't watch the tach... but i think it's in the 1800 to 2000 RPM range... Doing that I'm actually able to launch under BOOST! I accidentally launch without out running the RPMS up the other day... my 60' was way off!!! Think it was like 2.3 or 2.4 instead of 1.9 or 2.0...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hold the "TCS off" button for 5 seconds to disable traction control, an "advance trac off" message appears on the dash (for vehicles with the PP). Then try to get as close to 2K rpm as possible without red lighting. Like Scrming said the brakes wont hold with any higher RPM's than that, especially after they are hot, then around 1800 is all I can get without creeping forward. I think the "meth addicts" on this site leave traction control on because they need the grip with the added HP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I might be the one that goes to the drags the most often among all ecoboost owners (including John Scrming)... Guilty as charged ; )

The highest you can rev before your car starts moving will give you the fastest launch, unless your wheels spin after. I always remove TCS (I have non-PP). I have never experienced a car shut down (like Bob or Darrell) and I have no traction issues even with the extra power of methanol... glue or no glue at the track. I usually launch the car around 2200rpm. If I don't brake torque it, my 60ft. will suffer by about 0.1 sec. And lastly, the car is faster when intake is the coldest. If I put ice on it for an hour, my 0-60 goes from 3.9 seconds to 4.0-4.1 seconds.

 

There you go my friend, now go race the ricers at the track... and try to resist the grand mothers at stop lights! lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A higher stall converter would definitely benefit these cars. Being such heavy barges, a higher stall would definitely help them get off the line. I know a reputable guy from another forum that rebuilds/restalls converters if anyone would be willing to serve as a guinea pig...

 

I know in my Tbird, which weighed in around 3900 lbs, only changing the converter, from an 11" 2800 stall to a 9.5" 3800 stall, I saw a crazy difference in how the car went through the rpms, and it dropped 1 full second in ET.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A higher stall converter would definitely benefit these cars. Being such heavy barges, a higher stall would definitely help them get off the line. I know a reputable guy from another forum that rebuilds/restalls converters if anyone would be willing to serve as a guinea pig...

 

I know in my Tbird, which weighed in around 3900 lbs, only changing the converter, from an 11" 2800 stall to a 9.5" 3800 stall, I saw a crazy difference in how the car went through the rpms, and it dropped 1 full second in ET.

 

 

Wonder what the labor charge is to swap out the converters...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This guy doesn't do all the work' date=' he just does the work on the converters. Labor would likely be expensive since it would involve separating the engine and tranny.[/quote']

 

yep,understand the separation... in my old 2005 Mustang as converter swap was about 90 minutes out and 90 minutes in... Not sure what it would take in the Flex/SHO...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep' date='understand the separation... in my old 2005 Mustang as converter swap was about 90 minutes out and 90 minutes in... Not sure what it would take in the Flex/SHO...[/quote']

 

Probably longer because no speed shop has ever performed that type of mod on a SHO... as opposed to Stangs. If I were to do it, I think I'd go either with Livernois (if I were to live nearby) but in my case to my Ford dealer where I know a mechanic that goes to the drags and is used with both modding Ford cars and knows the Taurus SHO for having done work on a few of them since 2010... Actually, he is the one that will install the aux trans cooler that I am about to order from Torrie. I was able to negociate a better rate than usual and it is going to be done directly at the dealer...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A higher stall converter would definitely benefit these cars. Being such heavy barges, a higher stall would definitely help them get off the line. I know a reputable guy from another forum that rebuilds/restalls converters if anyone would be willing to serve as a guinea pig...

 

I know in my Tbird, which weighed in around 3900 lbs, only changing the converter, from an 11" 2800 stall to a 9.5" 3800 stall, I saw a crazy difference in how the car went through the rpms, and it dropped 1 full second in ET.

 

 

That's great I could only imagine what it would do to the SHO!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...