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How to replace rear window sunshade motor

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So today I replaced my rear power sun shade motor. I couldn't find any resources on the internet that explained how to do it, so now that I've done it I decided to do a quick write up in case anybody else has the same problem.


My symptoms were that any time the rear shade went down, it would bounce against the base of the shade unit for about ten seconds and make a loud banging noise. It would go up fine though. Ford mechanics said the sensor is inside the motor and not serviceable. Ford wanted $800+ for the shade assembly, plus labor to repair it. It is possible to buy the motor separately though. I bought a replacement online for about $80.


I'll add pictures later, but here is the basic run down:


  1. Remove the rear seat by pushing a little release lever at the bottom front of the seat and pull up the front. There is one latch on each side. Next, push the seat backwards on each side until they come loose from the loop anchor, and then lift the back of the seat up. Disconnect any wires (there were two smaller ones, one per side, then one large one on the passenger side in my car, which has heated seats). Remove from car.
  2. Remove the seat backs by removing the four hinge-anchor nuts (15mm). Lift the driver side out first by pulling up the right side, then sliding out the door. It is held by only a pin on the left side and slides right out.  Remove the passenger rear seat back next. When removing the larger seat back, pull the center seat belt around the right hand side to release it.
  3. Once the seats are out, there are two large plastic oval cover-inserts where the seat bottom was. Be careful putting weight on those, as they will pop through and you'll have to reinstall them. They do not need to be removed...just a warning.
  4. Remove the driver and passenger rear bolsters: Pull the bolster toward the center of the car about 2 inches, then pull down and forward.
  5. Remove the driver and passenger rear c-pillar trim pieces. There is one 7mm bolt that needs to be removed from each. Carefully pry the piece inward starting where the bolt was, then reach behind the piece and pop out each section carefully until all the way toward the rear window.
  6. Remove the three plastic trim holders/pins from the front of the rear deck carpet piece. These may break.
  7. Carefully pull the rear deck piece forward about one or two inches. The three seatbelt trim pieces are split at the bottoms, and the seat belts can be pulled through the split and downward through the splits in the deck piece.
  8. Reach under the deck to carefully support and lift the deck piece over the sun shade assembly and speakers. There are rubber supports that need to be carefully guided over the shade bars as you pull the piece out. Remove the deck from the car.
  9. Whether you purchased the whole shade assembly or just the motor, you will need to remove the whole assembly in both cases. Remove the four bolts holding the assembly front section (10mm). Next, remove the two 10mm bolts in the back. These will be more difficult as there is very little space between the deck and rear window. I used a 1/4" 10mm deep socket with a very flat ratchet. You may have some luck with a universal joint.
  10. Disconnect the electrical connector from the front of the assembly--it is easy to get to.
  11. Carefully lift the shade up and pull forward until it is out of the car.
  12. If replacing just the motor, you'll need to cut the cable ties that hold the wire to the motor. Next, use a very flat screw driver to remove the post-clips from the motor arm assembly. It's ok if you break them; the new motor comes with replacement clips and washers. Remove the four screws holding the motor to the assembly. Remove the old nuts and transfer them to the new motor. Remount the new motor to the assembly. Run the wire and connect to the coupler. Secure the wire with new cable ties. Connect the new motor arms to the arm posts. Put on the new washers, then put the new post clips on. Use a 10mm socket and tap the clips on to the posts until secure.
  13. REASSEMBLY: if the shade is up, leave it up and put the shade assembly back in the car. Loosely secure the four front bolts and reconnect the connector. Turn on the accessory power to the car, and press the button so that the shade goes down all the way. Install the two rear bolts, and then tighten all six bolts.
  14. Assembly is now the reverse of the removal process. When installing the rear deck, carefully guide the rubber supports over the speakers and shade-bars. There are two foam posts that are loosely attached in the back deck that may slide out; be sure to reinstall them if they do.
  15. When installing the large seat back, don't forget to wrap the center belt around the front before sitting the seat on the anchor bolts.


I'd say the whole process will take you around two hours to complete. I was pleasantly surprised at how many anti-vibration cushions and supports there were on all the pieces. 


This is pretty much the same procedure you'd have to take if you wanted to work on the rear deck speakers or rear window defroster. I'm not sure what the two oval inserts beneath the seat supports are for, but they look to be access panels to something; maybe the fuel pump?



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You are correct, the 2 inserts are for the Fuel Pump Module and the Fuel Level Sensor.



Item  Part Number  Description  
1  9C335  Fuel Pump (FP) module access cover  
2  14A464  Fuel tank jumper wiring harness electrical connector  
3  14A464  FP module electrical connector  
4  14A464  Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor electrical connector  
5  W520101  FP module shield nut (3 required)  
6  9A032  FP module shield  
7  9C385  FP module lock ring  
8  —  Fuel tank jumper tube-to- FP module quick connect coupling (part of 9J337)  
9  9J337  Fuel tank jumper tube  
10  —  Fuel tank jumper tube-to-fuel tube quick connect coupling (part of 9J337)  
11  9H307  FP module  
12  —  Internal fuel tube-to- FP module quick connect coupling (part of 9002)  
13  9C335  Fuel level sensor access cover  
14  14A464  Fuel level sensor electrical connector  
15  9C385  Fuel level sensor lock ring  
16  9275  Fuel level sensor  
17  9276  FP module O-ring seal  
18  —  Internal fuel tube-to- FP module quick connect coupling (part of 9002)  
19  9A089  Fresh air hose vent cap  
20  —  Fresh air hose pin-type retainer (part of 9S321)  
21  9S321  Fresh air hose  
22  —  Fuel vapor tube assembly-to-fuel tank filler pipe recirculation tube quick connect coupling (part of 9C047)  
23  9055  LH fuel tank strap  
24  9276  Fuel level sensor O-ring seal  
25  9055  RH fuel tank strap  
26  14A464  Fuel tank jumper wiring harness electrical connector  
27  —  FTP sensor (part of 9C047)  
28  9002  Fuel tank  
29  N811781  Fuel tank strap bolt (4 required)  
30  9A068  Isolation pad (4 required)  

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  • 7 months later...

I found that my 2013 SHO sunshade was bad. It bounced up and down all the time while I backed up. Scared the crap out of a lot of people. They thought we had someone trapped in the trunk. I order a new motor from Ford part #BG1Z 15790 A. When I went to Ford, I asked them for a wiring diagram of the sunshade module and motor. I figured I could cut the wire that makes it go down every time you back up. I believe this puts stress on the gears, every time reverse is activated. It turned out my motor assembly had a missing tooth on a internal brass gear. I have read some people rotate the broken gear 180 degrees and it works. I followed shobiz’s excellent directions above, to get at the speaker deck. After reviewing the wiring diagram and confirming with a Fluke meter, I cut the Blue-White wire going to the sun shade module. I added a little heat shrink on both sides of the wire, to keep It from shorting. It now works great. The button on the dash is now the only thing that controls the movement of the sunshade. This will also leave the shade up all the time if you choose. Even if you don't change the motor, and just cut the wire, it won't bounce unless you activate it with the button. The wire and module are located in the center of the back speaker deck. Hope this helps. 




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