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Brake interchangeability

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From what I have learned, retro-fitting the 2013 brakes onto prior model years involves an incredible amount of work.


So much so that it is essentially cost prohibitive.


Factoring all the things involved, you (or anyone else desiring to do this) would be better served by going aftermarket such as TCE / Wilwood, or even researching up a set of Brembo's.

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The parts are interchangeable and the cost for the parts including caliper, rotor, brake lines, splash guard, master cylinder and brake booster are not expensive either. The primary thing your looking at is getting the parts installed and labor cost. Calipers, pads, splash shield, brake lines & rotors are easy to install yourself with basic tools. The brake booster and master cylinder are a different store. Depending on your skill level with a wrench you may be able to do it yourself. If you can id check with a dealer to see how much an install would be. it shouldn't be much more than 2hrs for both parts so maybe $150 in labor depending on their rates. The retrofit also doesn't require you to run a spacer to continue to use your OEM wheels. If your wanting better braking performance and feel the '13 retrofit is the best and cost effective way to go since they bolt right up. Wilwood brakes would look cooler, slightly bigger (.45" difference), and give you a greater variety brake pads to choose from. But they also cost more and those kits don't address the brake feel issues with the non-pp '13 SHO's, which is significant and rotors cost more to replace. The willwood kits also don't do anything to the rear brakes. With the retrofit you can do both front and back for far less than the wilwood front only kit.

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The information I provide is coming direct from people who've worked at the CAP and have built both the 13's, and prior model years.


They specifically informed me that the work was extensive.


I mean I agree with you racerx, that in theory, all the parts you list should work, but I was told there was more to it than just what you've cited.


You're correct also in that the Wilwood kits only currently address the fronts. I believe Todd from TCE stated that they could do rear kits, but it would essentially involve almost duplicating, or mirroring what would be located up front with their kits.


Bottom line, either scenario, still pricey. But hey wth, I'm all game for someone trying to do the retro by all means :thumb:


I'd be interested to see it done that's for sure. :couch2:

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I'm going off of what Torrie(tmcphail) told me, and my converstations i had with my local dealers part dept. This was when i was looking to do a retro on a '10. As far as changing hubs & knuckles, that never came up in our discussions. Not to say its not true, just i never came a cross it in my research. For me doing a retro is a moot point, so i don't have all the info any more for it. If nothing else the brake booster and master cylinder would be worth the cost because of the braking feel/confidence you would gain.

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  • 3 weeks later...

FEEL! I can sit and pust the peddle down to almost the floor over time.

Are these the part no.s I need?

I used a VIN from a 2013 SHO listed for sale on Cars.com that said it has the Performance Package.

Brake Master Cyl #2140 (BRMC-167)



Power Brake Booster #2005 (BRB-65)


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I think your ideal situation would be my 14" Wilwood front kit and the fit of any factory larger rotor/caliper set up out back.


Yes I would have to agree.

But what keeps me from pulling the trigger is a complete package of front and matching backs.


Also that I would have to buy at the same time different rims and tires for the clearance of those brakes.

A lot of expense is coming, one step at a time thou.

So rims and tires before the brake setup.

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The 2L523 is the clevis pin that goes from the pushrod to the brake pedal. I'm surprised the booster is only $42. I'd like to see if anyone does this, as my car is my only working vehicle and cannot be dismantled without knowing it can be put together within a couple hours. Or else I would do it myself. I would assume it's the same.

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