Jump to content
Ecoboost Owner Forums

Race oil for turbo cars, zinc, cats, etc.


Paulford8
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have some local racers claiming you need brad penn race oil or something similar to get most out of any turbo car. Brad Penn is basically race car oil and their race version has zinc. They also make a version for "street cars" that says it is OK for cats with no zinc.

 

Anybody have any knowledge or experience with this? Dangerous for stock cats and highflow cats? I have seen guys claim they have used the regular zinc race oil for years on catted cars without plugging the cats. That said I have no personal experience.

 

I am probably still going Royal Purple next time around. RP also makes a "race" version which I am assuming has zinc as well. I am planning on sticking with the "street" oil for now, just curious as mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read a lot last night and this morning. Race oil and synthetic = to much information... That said I found a few tests pointing toward Amsoil providing best race and street wear protection. RP was in the middle on some tests I looked at, and 2nd to Amsoil on a few. Did find a race oil wear test that went Amsoil, Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn 1,2,3.

 

I am going to email RP and Amsoil about their race oil. Specifically how much if any zinc is in them and if they are safe for cats.

 

Like I said probably not changing just trying to gather information.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PLEASE don't waste your money on the higher zinc based race oils. Especially if you're going to continue using cat. converters! The reason for the higher levels of ZDDP in the race oils and others, like Brad Penn (which is what I run in my Grand Nationals) is because the added protection needed in the types of motors that are mostly prowling the drag strips. Most/many are, like mine, still running flat tappet cams, not rollerized cams. The flat tappet cams need the higher levels of ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus) to keep the cams from going flat.

 

You absolutely wont gain a thing by running these oils in your SHO. And over time it WILL start affecting the cats.

 

Stick with a good semi-synth and you'll be perfectly happy. Motorcraft 5W-30 is just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run AMSOIL for everything(Motor, Tranny, PTU & Diff) which i like because its made of a higher quality base stock. That last longer and provides wear protection. I know alot of people also say Mobile 1 and Pennzoil Platinum are really good oils also what have a lot of additives that make them perform really well. You could also look at Redline Oils which is made of the same base stock as AMSOIL if its available in your area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PLEASE don't waste your money on the higher zinc based race oils. Especially if you're going to continue using cat. converters! The reason for the higher levels of ZDDP in the race oils and others, like Brad Penn (which is what I run in my Grand Nationals) is because the added protection needed in the types of motors that are mostly prowling the drag strips. Most/many are, like mine, still running flat tappet cams, not rollerized cams. The flat tappet cams need the higher levels of ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus) to keep the cams from going flat.

 

You absolutely wont gain a thing by running these oils in your SHO. And over time it WILL start affecting the cats.

 

Stick with a good semi-synth and you'll be perfectly happy. Motorcraft 5W-30 is just fine.

 

 

Since I have been running RP it would be hard to find something more expensive :) and as stated twice I am probably not changing, if I did it would most likely be to Amsoil. Never said I wanted zinc either, just that many oils have it (even conventional non-race as I have found) and I dont know what it does/hurts/helps.

 

Dont know if it means anything but I had the "start up rattle" many have reported in the 3.5 eco while I was running Motorcraft blend. After I changed to RP it went away, so I am assuming something better lubrication wise is going on. Def not going back for SHO but use it in the wifes scape.

 

Only point of my post was a fact finding mission, sounds like you know more about lubricants then myself. I am just trying to learn more and be more educated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is an FYI if anybody else was curious (I am kinda a curious George..) I basically told Amsoil and RP tech support that I had a twin turbo ecoboost Taurus I sometimes raced. I also asked them about zinc in their products. here is the response from RP, he said the same thing turbodave did, in that if it is street driven their regular performance is good enough.

 

Curious though he said both of their lines have zinc and all oils have zinc which isnt an issue unless you are burning oil... I found an Amsoil MSDS and zinc was not listed on theirs. I will be interested to see what their response to my inquiry says.

 

If this SHO is also street driven, the HPS line of engine oils would likely be the best overall choice. If this is a dedicated competition application or you just want the very best engine oil, the XPR would be the better choice. Both of these oils have an elevated amount of anti-wear additive (contains zinc and phosphorus) compared to typical API licensed street oils, but because of the quality and effectiveness of our additive package, this will not cause a problem with emissions equipment. This assumes that the engine is in good mechanical and operational condition. Any engine running any oil will foul a catalytic converter if it is burning excessive oil. Fun fact: All engine oils contain anti-wear additive and therefore “zinc”.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that street oils didn't have zinc. ALL lubes have zinc. It's just that the use of cat converters has mandated that the levels of zddp has been drastically reduced since the 80's and flat tappet cams. With todays roller cams, and need for zinc is a lot lower. Typical levels of zinc required by flat tappet cams is in the area of 1800 ppm. Todays modern levels are closer to 800 ppm.

 

The Brad Penn oil I use for my Grand Nationals has a level of around 1200-1400 ppm so I suppliment it with a little additional zddp

 

Modern oils have come a LONG way, and most are just perfect for todays engine designs. I personally wouldn't recommend running highly zinced oils like BP in a modern street car, but that's just my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...