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My LED turn signal issues

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When you guys were getting hyper flash the front led would keep flashing as well yes?


When I installed version1 of the V3 Triton[/url=http://www.vleds.com/v3-triton.html] they would flash orange once, go back to solid white, and the rears would hyper flash until the stalk was turned off then back on. At one point in testing, the fuse for the front parking blew. Oh well, put the stock bulbs in and returned the kit. They released a version2 of the control box so I gave it another shot. I had the same problem, it would flash amber 1 time then hyper flash rear while the front went to white solid. I hit left turn on and off a few times really fast then the front left wouldn't blink at all. I put the stock bulb in and checked both the parking and turn fuse and both were ok. I took the car into the dealership and they said my smart junction box (sjb) needs replaced.


The sjb has an internal current sensing circuit. When theres to little current it hyper flashes because it thinks the bulb is burnt out (normal leds with no load resistor). When there is to much current it temporarly disables that output (ie front left) and hyper flashes the other (ie rear left). If that happens with a high enough current it damages the current sensing and it permantly disables that output.


So I'm thinking somehow something is pulling way to much current each time I'd activate the signal. So I would turn it on, it would flash once then the smart junction box would disable that output from to much current causing the rear to hyper flash and the switch back to go back to and stay white until I turned off the signal and turned it back on again resetting that output on the sjb.


Either 2 completely different versions of led's are bad, I'm using the wrong adapter (they said to use 3157), or something is screwy with the 2013's.

I'm going to take some measurements then post back.


The manual says my bulbs are 3457ak. I know the a is for amber but could our bases be wired ck since the bulb has the k? That could explain some of the odd measurements I'm getting.


edit: Defiantly not ck wiring, I just took the socket off the wiring harness and toned it out. I think the odd measurements may partly be because of the incadesent side markers give me 3ohms to ground through it on the park wire. If they weren't impossible to get to I'd pull the side marker and see if it goes away. I'm not sure how the led "fogs" would effect the measurement.


With the bulb out I get constant 8v from ground to signal when nothings on. With the blinker on it cycles between 8v and 12v.

With the bulb in I get 0v from ground to signal. With the blinker on it cycles between 0v and 12v. I guess it just needs a load to pull it down?


With the bulb in and parking lights on I get +12 on park while using the signal as the ground. I have no idea wtf is going on with this.

With the bulb in, parking lights on, blink on, I get +12v on signal using blink as the ground but its opposite of the blink output. For example I'll measure 12v between the park and turn when the turn should be off and it goes to 0v when the turn should be on.


I should probably remeasure these and write them down better. Its late and I may have mixed up the state of settings when I took a measurement but something odd is going on with the park and turn positive wires interacting.




Using a test light on the signal lead it would blink normally, hyper flash when I removed it, then blink normally when I applied it again. The whole time I was still getting 12v on the signal wire so it does keep trying to flash it during "bulb out" hyper flash. This leads me to believe its doing the current protection when I had the led's in since the turned back to steady white instead of hyper flashing orange.


The car is going in to the dealership in about 7 hours and Im afraid to test the led kit again and blow the right signal lead from the sjb right before its replaced.


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The first version used a box with light bulbs in it to fix hyper flash. The second version has a resistor built into the switchback module you can remove from the circuit with a fuse.


Really the hyper flash isn't my problem. If it was just hyperflashing because of no resistor the fronts would keep flashing orange according to my measurements. It's blowing fuses and killed my sjb. The hyper flash comes on because the sjb has sensed a problem and disabled the output.

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