jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 So I'm stuck on the rear turbo catted downpipe. It seems that the front CV axle is in the way. I removed the little heat shield but that still didn't give me enough clearance. I'm guessing the next thing to try is trying to raise the engine a bit. Anybody know the secret to this part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve142857 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 You won't like my answer, but I went to a shop specialized in mufflers, they put the car on a lift, removed all my exhaust system from downpipes to tips, put back the customized exhaust I had on my 2010 to my 2013 and installed the catted downpipes from Livernois all that in two hours including welding back the old exhaust that had been cut... Total cost was 150$... So the downpipes only would have cost me 50$ for install with zero concerns. Unless you really like doing it yourself, I would say to go to a specialized shop before touching anything... Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I'm in the middle of doing it. So its a bit late for that. I am not using a lift so that may be part of my problem. Maybe the wheel hanging is getting in the way. I'll have to look at that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmr061 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I had no problem doing it with the front of the car up on ramps. You just have to snake things in with the correct length of ratchet extensions. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I'm not having an issue with getting ratches in place...I'm having an issue actually getting the flange onto studs on the turbo...I can't seem to twist it in the correct way to get it lined up....did you have the catted pipes or the non-catted ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuxedoSHO Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I had the same issue when installing mine. Spent a solid hour trying to find a way to snake the flange onto the turbo bolts. Ended up taking a grinder to the half shaft.. had to grind maybe 1/4in out of the half shaft lip that sticks out in order to fit the downpipes with just enough clearance to avoid rattling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Okay just got off the phone with LMS and they said that if your car is a 2010-2012 PP version, you have to grind off the nub that sits on the CV axle that holds a heat shield. Apparently this heat shield doesn't exist on the 2013 PP or Non-PP version of the car. I've attached a picture so you guys can see what I'm talking about. Crash712us and SHOdded 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I had the same issue when installing mine. Spent a solid hour trying to find a way to snake the flange onto the turbo bolts. Ended up taking a grinder to the half shaft.. had to grind maybe 1/4in out of the half shaft lip that sticks out in order to fit the downpipes with just enough clearance to avoid rattling. I knew I wasn't crazy! lol...yeah Livernois said just as much when I called. You can see the picture I posted so other people will know what we are talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmr061 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I have a 2013 PP manufactured in June of 13....installed the catted downpipes....seems to me I had to snake that rear one in but it fit just fine and nothing was in the way. I should add I think at first I was like..."damn this can't be the right pipe", but after looking things over it did slide up and in. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuxedoSHO Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I don't have a PP, but that's exactly what I had to grind off. Not all of it, maybe 20-30% into the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 According to LMS the 2013 doesn't have this problem, which is why you didn't have anything to grind off...as far as a non pp having this issue i was just going off what LMS said to me on the phone. It could be different years have different options, not sure...maybe 2011 non-pp has the same spot that needs to be ground off...regardless it's something I have to do to my car and it appears others have had to do this as well...this is just something to consider if you are doing this yourself which is why I wanted to bring it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I don't have a PP' date=' but that's exactly what I had to grind off. Not all of it, maybe 20-30% into the threads.[/quote'] They said I could go ahead and grind the whole thing off...they said it's not really needed and doesn't even exist for the 2013 model... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeprato Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 All done with the install. After grinding off the mount for the heat shield and few more tweaks to get everything clear from rubbing. Its all done. Not really that much louder. Seems like the car feels smoother somehow. Once I delete the 3rd cat I'll be done with the exhaust. I kinda like the sleeper look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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