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need a new engine now, options?


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so it looks like everything is failing on my engine, turbos, heads etc. I need to buy an entirely different engine, used for a relatively cheap price. Any suggestions. I found some on Ebay out of crashed cars, is that my best option? Also will the Lincon MKS one work? Anything I need to know before i buy one used?

they say the newer sho engines, like 2013 aren't compatible with my 2010? Is that true, those engines wont work?

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FleaBay is incorrect.

 

A '13-'17 motor WILL fit/work in a '10-'12.

 

Mine for instance, at it's core, began as 2014 production block.

 

There are ancillary things that will require some changing, sensors, turbo lines, etc. But it's not terrible by any stretch.

 

Good luck in your efforts.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd consider, in order of preference, with 1st suggestion being highest:

 

1.) Built Long Block from LMS

2.) New from FMC

3.) Remanufactured Block

4.) JY / used Block

 

Problem with a JY motor, is you'll have absolutely zero history on it, and as all of us who give 2 poops about our cars know, stringent maintenance is absolutely vital/key to longevity.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Edited by bpd1151
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FleaBay is incorrect.

 

A '13-'17 motor WILL fit/work in a '10-'12.

 

Mine for instance, at it's core, began as 2014 production block.

 

There are ancillary things that will require some changing, sensors, turbo lines, etc. But it's not terrible by any stretch.

 

Good luck in your efforts.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd consider, in order of preference, with 1st suggestion being highest:

 

1.) Built Long Block from LMS

2.) New from FMC

3.) Remanufactured Block

4.) JY / used Block

 

Problem with a JY motor, is you'll have absolutely zero history on it, and as all of us who give 2 poops about our cars know, stringent maintenance is absolutely vital/key to longevity.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

thanks, it looks like as of right now, i'm at least pricing a reman engine because the mechanic and engine comes with 3 years warranty, which will give me enough time to pay off my car and give me some peace of mind. Just not looking forward to hearing the price of it sometime today. The mechanic said he would knock $1600 off the price since his work on my engine didn't fix it.

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FleaBay is incorrect.

 

A '13-'17 motor WILL fit/work in a '10-'12.

 

Mine for instance, at it's core, began as 2014 production block.

 

There are ancillary things that will require some changing, sensors, turbo lines, etc. But it's not terrible by any stretch.

 

Good luck in your efforts.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd consider, in order of preference, with 1st suggestion being highest:

 

1.) Built Long Block from LMS

2.) New from FMC

3.) Remanufactured Block

4.) JY / used Block

 

Problem with a JY motor, is you'll have absolutely zero history on it, and as all of us who give 2 poops about our cars know, stringent maintenance is absolutely vital/key to longevity.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Hey, do you still have the stock turbo's off your sho that you replaced with new different turbos? I just need the left turbo

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Nope. I traded them in to recoup the mandatory core charge.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

OK, thanks, just thought I would ask in case you did. I guess i'm gonna have to go without a SHO for awhile, hopefully I can get another one before July 2018 since the anual SHO convention will be held in my home state of Oklahoma  =(

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No worries. Never any harm in inquiring, that's for sure.

 

Why not just store your current SHO, & then repair it when you've replenished your funds?

 

Seems like, given all the various threads you've created recently, that even you are lil perplexed as to how to proceed.

 

I mean honestly, if your motor has been repaired, and/or is solid as of this posting, and all you have left is the turbos, I'd personally press the brakes (& hard at that) & halt all this nonsense of parting your hard earned Benjamins/mods apart to any/all SHO vultures circling around, ready and wound to pounce.

 

Just replace the turbos when funds allow.

 

Seems to be the most reasonable path to travel, given all stated influencing variables that you've communicated thus far.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Edited by bpd1151
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