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Shaking & or Vibration 2010 SHO


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I have been driving 2000 miles per week for work for 3 weeks now, when sitting at a light or idleing I can feel the engine shaking and rumbling, I never felt this before.. I am just worried something may be up..my engine has crapped out once before and was covered under warranty. Any input would be helpful. There is not a CEL on and it runs strong, I just changed the oil 2 weeks ago used Motorcraft oil & a purolator oil filter It has a CAI on it and that is it.

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Go to Rock Auto and order the correct plugs for the 2011 SHO... Motorcraft #SP-528 (CYFS-12-Y3). You can also look on TSB 10-2-6 which covers plug & warranty issues. They are quite easy to change... Gap is set from Motorcraft supplier at factory, so you shouldn't attempt to change. Didn't they replace the plugs when you got your new engine?

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Go to Rock Auto and order the correct plugs for the 2011 SHO... Motorcraft #SP-528 (CYFS-12-Y3). You can also look on TSB 10-2-6 which covers plug & warranty issues. They are quite easy to change... Gap is set from Motorcraft supplier at factory' date=' so you shouldn't attempt to change. Didn't they replace the plugs when you got your new engine?[/quote']

 

Wouldn't completely trust the pre-gapped plugs. Always double check them

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My plugs were VERY dirty, and that was at about 30k on the clock.

 

I'd agree with others, swap out the plugs & yes, double check the gapping.

 

Especially since there was a previously known issue with the factory plugs.

 

Darrell and I are running plugs that are 2 stages colder, Darrell rock'n the Denso's, and me, the NGK's.

 

There's a thread I started on it that has both part numbers for either product you prefer..... search it up :thumb:

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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Wouldn't completely trust the pre-gapped plugs. Always double check them

 

I normally agree but the box says" CAUTION: SPARK PLUG GAP IS NOT ADJUSTABLE" I checked them all and they were all .035.

Since you have already gotten one free engine... I would be very careful not to "rock Ford's warranty police".... I would stay with Ford's recommendation. In fact... ALL of my stripping was done on the original 2010 spec# Motorcraft plug. At 34,500, I finally had the #6 snap the ceramic and slide up and down on the center. Surprisingly, all looked really good... a nice light brown.

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I have been driving 2000 miles per week for work for 3 weeks now' date=' when sitting at a light or idleing I can feel the engine shaking and rumbling, I never felt this before.. I am just worried something may be up..my engine has crapped out once before and was covered under warranty. Any input would be helpful. There is not a CEL on and it runs strong, I just changed the oil 2 weeks ago used Motorcraft oil & a purolator oil filter It has a CAI on it and that is it.[/quote']

 

Why not let the dealer look after it? you still have warranty right?

Just make sure the Intake is correct and go in.

 

 

Wouldn't completely trust the pre-gapped plugs. Always double check them

 

+1 on that. Pregapped sometimes is way off. Not good to rely on at all.

If you regap, don't pry between electrodes. It will bend the delicate center electrode. Use a side electrode bending tool.

 

C.

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I still check the pre-gapped plugs. So far, they have been correct. What plug # was in the engine after replacement? The way to tell if you have a cracked insulator is turn the plug with electrode down. ceramic will be in a different position than when it is view with electrode up. ceramic moves up and down.

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