bpd1151 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 Ok, so not wanting other members here having to sift through 15 pages, and 150+ posts in my original thread on this topic..... I have chosen to excise my "How-To" post from my original thread, and replace it here so it's easy for all to find. Before I post up, a couple of things have been discovered and are worth noting here in this official "How-To". 1st, this install was performed on a NON ACC EQUIPPED car. For those of you with ACC, you will have to either consider relocating the ACC radar itself to an entirely new location, or possibly doing away with it altogether. The verdict is still out on where to place, or what exactly to do with the ACC radar as this mod is still relatively new, (having been completed on 04/17/12) and not enough install s have performed by others as of yet. 2nd, although bumper removal is not entirely necessary, it goes w/o saying, that it'll make the overall job a helluva lot easier. 3rd, a trans cooler disconnect tool, such as this one found here------> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ6P40/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1 will also make the job a helluva lot easier, but like the bumper removal, is not necessary. I did it the easy way by simply cutting my old trans lines as I had no intention of reusing the OEM cooling lines, but others have found that simply unscrewing the 19mm nuts on the steel tubes entering into the thermal bypass valve will also accomplish the task at hand just as easily. 4th, although you can find these parts at any local dealer, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND completing a purchase through our EBF SUPPORTING VENDOR UNLEASHED TUNING as they have complete kits, ready to go, and at a disocunted price to boot! :thumb: You may find those kits here------> http://www.fastpartsnetwork.com/content/view/42/ 5th (& finally), this was an approximate 2hr install from bumper removal, removing the old OEM lines, and installing/retro-fitting the new 2013 parts and wrapping it all back up. This was at a VERY relaxed pace. But this should provide you with some sort of time frame to set aside for this project. ___________________________________________________________________________________ Now onto the "How-To" which is posted below: For those of you doing this mod, it's as simple as loosening 3 bolts, 2 nuts, and drilling 2 holes and blamo, done! The following parts will be needed, and anything beyond is really unnecessary..... Auxiliary Cooler, DG1Z7A095D List price from Ford @ $161.46 Tube Assembly, DG1Z-7R081-J List price from Ford @ $122.05 Tube Assembly (w/ New Thermal Bypass Valve), DG1Z-7R081-A List price from Ford @ $67.82 Outlet Tube / Hose, DG1Z-7W064-A List price from Ford @ $19.72 Inlet Tube / Hose, DG1Z-7W063-A List price from Ford @ $16.30 Gray Plastic Latch / Retainer (Qty 2), 8C3Z-7Z465-A List price from Ford @ $9.00 each As well as two, self tapping bolts of your own choosing, found at any local hardware store (to mount the auxiliary cooler itself to the underside of the front frame rail). You will NOT need any extra nuts, bolts, hose clamps, etc. etc as originally thought. I did end up re-using two of the hose clamps from the old parts, and placed those where the Inlet, and Outlet tubes/hoses connect to the auxiliary cooler itself. I also ended up re-using two of the gray plastic latches from the old parts, and placed those onto the new hose / tube assembly's. I also end up using two common, self tapping bolts, found at any local hardware store, to mount the cooler itself to the frame rail. So now I have a bunch of parts left over that aren't really even necessary as I re-used the two bolts (one each) located at the point where the tubes connect to the top of the trans housing itself. There are also two nuts where the thermal bypass valve is fastened to the car, which I also re-used those. Essentially, you WILL have to remove the entire front bumper clip in order to perform this mod correctly / successfully. You can follow my "How-To" on removing the front bumper clip by following this link here: http://www.ecoboostownerforums.com/showthread.php?76-quot-How-To-quot-Remove-Front-Bumper-(on-2010-SHO)-amp-Install-Mobsteel-Grilles Once you've removed the front bumper, you will then have to remove the air cleaner box / assembly. Afterwards, you will need to loosen the two bolts (one each) found at the top of the trans housing. One is located pretty much under the air box itself. See/Refer to pic below: It should look like this after you've loosened the bolt and removed it: The 2nd bolt (which looks EXACTLY like the 1st one pictured above) is located literally just to the rear of the battery, closer to the engine block. Simply follow the cooler line back and peer down from the rear of the battery, and you'll see it. See/Refer to the below pics: Removing the battery is NOT necessary to do as there is plenty of room to slide your hand under the battery itself to wiggle the cooler line out from under it. When removing this bolt, I doubled up two socket extensions in order to get the socket to reach down on top of the bolt to loosen it. Next up, loosen the two nuts that hold the thermal bypass valve onto the car (just above and slightly to the left of my finger in this pic below): There is one last bolt that is located towards the front of the stock cooler, that holds the vertical tube assembly's into place (to the right side of the stock cooler if you were to be facing the car). It bolts the hangar into place. You will then need to have a second set of hands to help hold the auxiliary cooler itself into place, in order to mark the holes where you will need to drill into the bottom portion of the front frame rail. If you look at this pic below, off to the left, the black mounting bracket that comes attached to the cooler, there is a "T" or a tab that will need to be bent downwards (and out of the way) so that the top of the bracket sits flush with the underside of the frame rail. The tab is on the right side of the that mounting bracket in this pic. Then simply re-install all the new tube assembly's back into the EXACT SAME POSITION where the old one's were previously located, using the EXACT SAME NUTS AND BOLTS. Re-attach your gray plastic latches as seen below. Two used near the thermal bypass valve, the other two used where the Inlet and Outlet Tubes coming from the auxiliary cooler and attaching to the lower portion of the vertical tube assembly's coming off of the stock cooler. See/Refer to the two pics below: Then be sure to top off your trans fluid as I lost about a 1/2 quart simply when disconnecting all of the old parts off of, and away from the car, and then you'll have to add about another 1/4 of a quart or so to make up for the added volume of the auxiliary cooler. Here's a finished pic my install: Sorry for the blurry pic...... One last note, when attaching the Inlet and Outlet tubes to the auxiliary cooler itself, I chose to drill the holes and mount the cooler BEFORE attaching the Inlet/Outlet tubes. Why? Well because there is excess length of hose that will need to be cut / trimmed down, before performing the final attachment to the cooler. Also, this where I re-used the old hose clamps from the old assembly. Seriously this install was a piece of cake :fish2: POST INSTALL RESULTS: If you don't drive it like you stole it........ My tranny temps have generally been staying within the 160-170 range. Closer to 160 in all honesty. If you do drive it fairly aggressively (outside air temps being in the 80's) I have found that the tranny temps have stayed at 180. Prior to installing this Auxiliary Trans Cooler, the temps I was seeing were typically around 200-205 during normal driving. Spirited driving, those temps shot quickly up to, and just slightly past, 220. Even then, those temps would skyrocket very quickly to those extremes before this install. Post install, the temps are much more controlled, rise slowly, and reduce back down to the 160-170 range (from 180) under spirited driving. Overall, I am VERY happy with this mod, and I thank FMC for developing this product with such ease, that it easily retro-fitted onto prior model years. GREAT JOB FMC :hail: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 For those of you looking for the official diagram (of differences) between the 2010-12 OEM set-up VS. the new, 2013 re-design..... See/Refer to the attachment below. [ATTACH]574[/ATTACH] conv_215.pdf conv_215.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 As of 07/11/12...... There are plenty of these kits available for immediate purchase through EBOF Supporting Vendor Mr. Torrie McPhail, owner of Unleashed Tuning. Place your order(s) today and let's support those who are supporting our community. Thanks :yo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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