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"How-To" Retro-Fit 2013 Auxiliary OIL Cooler Onto '10-'12 SHO / EB Engines...

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Enclosed is the Official "How-To" on retro fitting the 2013 EcoBoost PP Auxiliary Oil cooler onto any '10, '11, or '12 model year.


My apologies for any delay in producing this, as it seems time has escaped me for lack of better terms, and I've been preoccupied with a multitude of life's responsibilities. Either way, better late than never I suppose. :thumb:


Before beginning, I'd like to extend my gratitude to the following individuals, each of whom played an integral role in assisting me in various forms, in order for me to achieve this modification to my 2010 non-PP SHO.


1st and foremost, Mr. Matt Hencinski, owner of Auto Wizard located in Manhattan, IL. for providing his time, and professional expertise, as well as lending me the use of his facility, and in some cases, tools.


2nd, fellow EBOF member Mr. Torrie McPhail for providing the necessary exploded parts diagrams, of which I used to identify the proper parts needed, as well as also using a guideline, or template for completing this mod.


3rd, fellow EBOF member MAC98SHO, for allowing me to personally inspect his 2013 PP SHO (and take pictures of same) which aided tremendously in understanding the lay out of the hoses, and how they went together, as that part of the puzzle was missing from the exploded diagram.





Now this mod was, in the grand scheme of things, relatively "easy" to perform. Mind you, it did require a moderate degree of effort, as well as a general working knowledge of the EcoBoost engine, and it's related parts. But not bad overall. If I recall correctly, overall install time was maybe 2hrs tops?


I will say that I never previously performed any type of data logging, therefore, I have NO CLUE as to what my oil temps were running prior to completing this mod. However, since I have a dedicated oil temp gauge now, my observations since it's install is that the oil temps generally hover in the 190-195 range and I haven't really noticed it yet exceed 200 degrees, even during those times in which I've tracked my SHO.




Although the parts list below is now all inclusive as to what exactly will be needed, it under went several revisions (much like the Auxiliary Trans Cooler mod I performed) before determining, in it's finality, what was needed, and what is considered optional.


TOTAL LIST PRICE (excluding optional items) = $374.15



Complete List Of Necessary Parts:



Oil Cooler Assembly, 8A8Z*6A642*A, List Price @ $126.48


Oil Filter Adaptor, AT4Z*6881*A, List Price @ $107.89


Hose Assembly, DG1Z*6A715*A, List Price @ $35.87


Upper Radiator Hose, Part# AA5Z*8286*D, List Price @ $46.22


Lower Radiator Hose, Part # DG1Z*8286*B List Price @ $50.69


Hex Bolts, pkg of 4ea, W503277*S437, List Price @ $1.00ea **must purchase 2 pkg's total**




Below are Optional Parts, that are not necessary to this installation, but can be changed as desired:


Oil Filter, FL*500*S, List Price @ $9.76


Oil Pressure Switch Assembly, 6U5Z*9278*D List Price @ $40.32




It will be necessary to travel to any hardware or auto parts supply store to purchase a small metal hose clamp, as well as a metal plug for what I recall was maybe like $5? These parts will be explained later on here, but are used to "cap off" the 3rd cooling line that would've run to the Auxiliary PTU Cooler found exclusively on 2013 PP SHO's, but is not used in this application.




Below are individual images of all the items listed in the parts list, and are in the same descending order as it appears above.




Oil Cooler Assembly (1 of 2):




Oil Cooler Assembly (2 of 2):






Oil Filter Adapter (1 of 2):




Oil Filter Adapter (2 of 2):






Hose Assembly (1 of 2):




Hose Assembly (2 of 2):






Upper Radiator Hose Assembly (1 of 1):






Lower Radiator Hose Assembly (1 of 1):






Hex Bolts, pkg of 4, (1 of 2):




Hex Bolts, pkg of 4, (2 of 2):







Below is the OPTIONAL Oil Pressure Switch Assembly (1 of 2):




Oil Pressure Switch Assembly (2 of 2):



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It should be noted, that if you don't have access to lift, in order to work under the car, then you should have a properly rated floor jack that will lift our big pig of car into the air, and be sure to chock the wheels to prevent vehicle travel and ALWAYS use properly rated jack stands when working under your car.


Also, you should be careful to be working on as level of a surface as possible. This seems absolutely retarded for me to say, but I responded to a call a couple of months back where an adult male subject had been working under his sport utility vehicle, in his driveway (on an approx 5% grade, sloped towards the street) where this person ended up literally dying as result of his poor decision(s) to work on a sloped surface, chose not use stands, and chose not to properly chock the wheels.


Well, long story short, the vehicle rolled, landed on top of him, and crushed him to death. So for God's sake people, please exercise normally expected safety precautions when working on your vehicles for crying out loud :doh:


Other than that, the only other tools you will actually need for this mod are the following:


A good socket set, with small extension rods, along with specifically an 8mm socket

A flat head screwdriver

A utility knife

Replacement, Factory Spec'd Engine Coolant

Replacement Oil




Once you've jacked up your car, or driven it up onto the lift.......


The 1st thing you'll need to do is remove the large plastic underbelly pan that covers the bottom of the engine bay area.


For those of you who've never removed this piece, there are four metal thumb twist type of tabs located essentially at each corner of the cover itself.


Unscrew them, and drop the cover out of the way.


Locate you factory installed Oil Filter Adaptor. It will be located towards the front of the car, 1/4 of the way up from the bottom of the engine. Remove the Oil Filter which is attached to it.


Then there are three hex bolts that fasten the factory Oil Filter Adaptor to the engine block itself. You will have to remove these three bolts so that the factory Oil Filter Adaptor can be removed entirely.


This is what you your factory Oil Filter Adaptor looks like once removed:




*retain the original three bolts used to mount this factory OFA to the engine block as you can reuse them on the new OFA yet to be installed*




Once you've completely removed the factory installed OFA, you should see something like the following on the engine block:









By the way, here's a close up image of the factory installed Oil Pressure Switch Assembly:




Again, I found out, that this part is optional, as the one I purchased is apparently the exact same one that is spec'd (or called for) in the 2013 PP SHO models, and is the exact same part. I listed this as optional, because I would suspect, depending on where any of you may be at as far as accrued mileage, you may opt to swap this part out just for the heck of it. But understand, it's not necessary to do so.




Next up, would be to mount the new, replacement Oil Filter Adapter Assembly.


Place the new OFA into place, as pictured below, and then reuse the same three hex bolts retained from the previous step above, to mount it to the engine block.






Next in line, go grab your the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, and place it over the newly mounted OFA.


(note that the new OFA is "double sided" in that it has gaskets on either side of it, that allow it not only mount to the engine block itself, but also allows it to properly "receive" the Oil Cooler Assembly as well.


It should look something like this:




I left the bolts out intentionally to show that it has not / was not completely tightened down.




You will need to use a total of six (6) of the hex bolts you purchased in the parts list, in order to properly fasten / tighten down the Oil Cooler Assembly to the new OFA.




Moving along, you will next need to remove BOTH the factory installed Upper, and Lower, Radiator Hose Assemblies.


Now I can report, that due to lack of room, removing these was a major PITA.


The Upper and Lower are connected mid way through, and these two parts "snap" together.


I have no suggestions, or hints, or w/e in order to explain how to remove these two hoses.


You'll see what I mean once ya'll get your hands in there and try to bend, twist, and manuever these out of place. Suggestions are welcome for any others that may come up with them as discovered.


It goes w/o saying that you will need something to capture the coolant that leaks out as a result of removing these hoses. So w/e you choose (i.e. household bucket, or a dedicated reservoir or tank, etc.).




Now you'll have to go and grab your newly purchased Upper, and Lower Radiator Hose Assemblies.


You will notice that part of the new Lower Radiator Hose Assembly incorporates a hard plastic tube, that has a total of three 'T' fittings.


Two of these fittings are used inconjunction with the hose assemblies which will eventually run between the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, and this newly revised Lower Radiator Hose.


The third fitting, which does have a hose attached to it, would lead to the Auxiliary PTU Cooler, of which, I did NOT retro-fit at this time.


See / Refer to the image below:






At this point, since the 3rd 'T' fitting is not utilized in this modification, you will want to take your utility knife and cut off the majority of that 3rd, unused hose line.


After cutting the hose down, insert your metal plug into the opening, and then place your metal hose clamp around the plug and tighten it down.


It should look something like the two pictures below:







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Is time for a beer break yet? :noidea:


I'm think'n perhaps :couch2:


Anyhow, the next step in the process involves reinstalling the new Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses.


Those hoses go back into the exact same location(s) where the factory installed hoses were placed (and subsequently removed).


Once that part is complete, you'll next need to install the Hose Assembly that spans between the Auxiliary Oil Cooler, and the 'T' fittings found on the newly revised Lower Radiator Hose.


I shouldn't have to say this, but it goes w/o saying that removing the flexible vinyl, yellow covered protective sleeves is necessary, in order to allow the coupling of the hose assembly to the 'T' fitting appropriately.


On this end of it, those hoses simply "snap" together and are a breeze to install.


It should look something like this below:








Moving along to the opposite end of it, you'll need two additional metal hose clamps, as you will need to slide each hose end, over the fittings protruding from the Auxiliary Oil Cooler, and then place the hose clamps around each, and tighten down each accordingly.


It should look like something like this when it's completed:






Also, prior to attaching this hose assembly to both the Lower Radiator Hose, as well as the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, you will notice a medium sized black piece of plastic somewhat in the middle of this assembly. That piece acts BOTH as a hose separator, as well as a support for the hoses themselves.


If I recall correctly, there was a "christmas tree" type of plug on the inside of it, and this entire piece actually rested on top of the radiator core support / front frame rail (as depicted below). The hole was already there for the "christmas tree" to push into.







Reinstall your oil filter.






This essentially completes your install of the Auxiliary Oil Cooler.


Obviously, before restarting your engine, be sure to top off BOTH the oil and the engine coolant as required.


It should be noted that when I completed this mod, I was also in the process of installing my brand new, 1st ever set of it's kind, catless down pipes.


Removing the front cat / turbo pipe may prove to be beneficial in providing you the necessary extra room that would be necessary to complete this mod accordingly.


Once all the fluids have been topped off, and you've verified all of your connections are solid, go ahead and restart you car.



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Now this next part is also completely optional.


I am choosing to include this part of the process within this "How-To" for those of you that may want to do this in the future.


Incorporating my new, one off A-Pillar Gauge Pod, I chose to purchase an Oil Temperature Gauge from Autometer (in the Officially Licensed Ford Racing Series set of gauges).


In conjunction with that A-Pillar Gauge Pod mod, included with the purchase of the Oil Temp Gauge, is an Oil Sending Unit that will need to be installed.


I noticed that both on the factory OFA that was removed, as well as on the new OFA installed with the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, that there was / is a screw in metal plug.


Notice in the image below, the brighter, shiny metal plug installed into the new OFA:






What was weird was that the outer diameter, and it's corresponding thread pattern was a direct fit for this same plug that was located on the original OFA.


The only difference was that the inner "hole" was larger on the new OFA plug, versus the smaller hole on the plug from the factory OFA.


I essentially ended up swapping these plugs.


Note the opening located in this image below, where the threaded plug was removed, and the modified one will be subsequently installed:






Here is an image of the factory OFA plug (with smaller inset hole) and the Oil Sending Unit (placed next to the plug) which was included with the Oil Temp Gauge:


Note that the OFA plug was placed into a vise, prior to drilling and tapping, in order to provide stability and ensure a clean hole:






I then had to purchase an 1/8" NPT tap and used a 21/64 drill bit, in order to drill out the inner hole of the factory plug.


It looked like this once drilled and tapped out:






Then I threaded in the sending unit, into the plug itself, as noted below:






Then reinstall the newly modified plug (that has the oil temp sending unit installed) back into the OFA where the plug originally went:








Run your applicable wiring from the sending unit, through the firewall, and hook it up into the reverse side of the Oil Temp Gauge itself.


Follow the necessary install directions that are customarily supplied with Gauge itself.


Then wallah! You will now have the ability to read you oil temps accordingly:



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I hope that as with all of my previous "How-To's", that this latest one proves to be beneficial to any, or all of you who may be contemplating performing this mod on your own.


This "How-To" is yet another, in a series of "How-To's" for which I've become known for, and I'll add, are only exclusively available here, within this community itself.


If any questions should arise, outside of what I've tried to explain in as much detail as possible already, then feel free to post those questions here, or shoot me a PM.


Also, if any of you happen to come up with suggestions that may improve upon the steps I've outlined, then by all means, post away :thumb:


Your comments are welcome, as they help provide me with the foundation and/or motivation for me to continue producing new "How-To's" in the future.


Thanks again, and as always, happy modding :bolt:


Mike :yo:

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  • 1 year later...

Mike I have a question for you. On the new lower radiator hose assembly, would it be possible to use the hose that you have cut and blocked off, to install the water temperature sensor in that hose that isn't used. I am thinking that could be an easy access point to install the temperature sensor for a water temperature gauge. May take a little modding, but do you think it would work or could be done?

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