timbo Posted December 16, 2012 Report Share Posted December 16, 2012 Updated on May 24, 2015. I test fit a 2014 rotor and bracket with pads onto my 2011 SHO and guess what? Everything fits. So you can simply bolt everything on and go. There may be some differences, but dimensionally they are interchangeable. I know the hub/bearing assembly is different between the 10-12 and 13+ as an example. So if you want better brakes without spending over $2k, just get the newer brakes. 2010-2012 Taurus Brakes Front Rotor: 325mm x 30mm (12.8" x 1.18") Rear Rotor: 330mm x 11mm (12.99" x .43") Front Piston: 47.5mm Rear piston: 43mm Master cylinder: 2013+ Taurus Brakes Front Rotor: 350mm x 32mm (13.8" x 1.25") Rear Rotor: 343mm x 19mm (13.5" x .75") Front Piston: 47.5mm Rear Piston: 43mm Master Cylinder: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoMoCoSho Posted December 16, 2012 Report Share Posted December 16, 2012 I hope we can get PP specs also. As a 13, non-PP owner, I would like to figure out if I can upgrade to PP spec brakes when the originals wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nameneeded Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I was led to believe that the rotors are the same size across all lines of the 2013 Taurus and not limited to the SHO PP. A quick google for part numbers showed the same part number for an SE v6 as a SHO. :noidea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted December 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Yeah, I believe (similar to the 2010-2012 SHO), the "upgrades" are the pads, but also the pistons seem to be upgraded on the '13 PP SHO/Interceptor as well. Everything else is the same...so anyone got the dimensions? Mainly the width. Might be good to see if a simple caliper upgrade may be easy with the new rotors instead of going with more expensive 2-pc on the 2010-2012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONLYA6 Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 From what I have gathered on the brakes the 2013 PP has high temp silicone caliper piston boots, cross drilled caliper pistons for improved cooling, high temp brake fluid, different pads, and different front rotors w/o dust shields for improved cooling. The center of the front rotor around the hub has cut outs to draw air in and out through the veins, but yes, they are the same diameter as the other models. The front caliper/bracket assembly also appears larger than 2010-12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac98SHO Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 The SHO brakes are bigger than the standard Taurus line. The SHO w/PP has few extra though I think it just pads. I was led to believe that the rotors are the same size across all lines of the 2013 Taurus and not limited to the SHO PP. A quick google for part numbers showed the same part number for an SE v6 as a SHO. :noidea: Sent from my RM-824_nam_att_101 using Board Express Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Anyone confirm anything on the brakes yet? Anyone with a 2013 care to take off a wheel and measure? Mainly concerned with the rotor width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I'm looking at fordparts.com for the updated master cylinder with the larger bore. The part numbers for the master cylinder I see for the 2013 model year Taurus are BRMC-118 and BRMC-167. The part number for the master cylinder I see for the 2011 model year Taurus is BRMC-118. Does this mean that BRMC-167 is the updated version of the master cylinder? P/N for 2011 brake booster : BRB59 P/N for 2013 brake booster : BRB65 I would buy both the master cylinder and brake booster in a heartbeat if I can get improved pedal feel. They are cheap on rockauto.com, like 200 bucks for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoman04 Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I'm looking at fordparts.com for the updated master cylinder with the larger bore. The part numbers for the master cylinder I see for the 2013 model year Taurus are BRMC-118 and BRMC-167. The part number for the master cylinder I see for the 2011 model year Taurus is BRMC-118. Does this mean that BRMC-167 is the updated version of the master cylinder? P/N for 2011 brake booster : BRB59 P/N for 2013 brake booster : BRB65 I would buy both the master cylinder and brake booster in a heartbeat if I can get improved pedal feel. They are cheap on rockauto.com, like 200 bucks for both. 03-14-2013, 07:26 PM#1 Themetalmaster , RedCandySHO Came up with these stainless braided lines that are claim to stop the fade feel better than anything short of a new master cylinder. RedCandySHO Premium Member -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 263 2010 Brakes Hey guys, I stumbled across a Goodridge part number for stainless braided lines for the SHO. I was almost ready to have a set made to solve the mushy brake pedal and came across them. Part Number is 12348 if anyone is interested. I am gonna give them a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Well, I've got a couple reasons why I don't want to go with stainless lines. One, at $165 its almost as expensive as a new master + booster, and I'm not 100% sure it will be comparable. Two, manufactures put rubber brake lines on cars for cost and durability. Stainless brake lines need to replaced every two to three years. Stainless steel brake lines have braided stainless steel on the outside and rubber brake line on the inside. It is extremely difficult to detect wear or damage to the brake line. On a conventional rubber brake line, any tears or swelling are apparent. This is why anybody worth their salt who runs stainless lines replaces them on a ~2 year schedule. Three, I have driven a 2013 SHO and the brakes feel much better than on my 2011. I know that brake pedal feel is directly tied to the quality / capacity of the hydraulic system rather than the size of the brake disks / pads / calipers. Also having Ford designed parts specced for this application makes me feel better. I was just trying to see if anybody else had swapped 2013 parts or at least done more research than I have. I'm sure the parts will fit (at least the booster + MC will), I just want to make sure I'm ordering the right parts. 03-14-2013, 07:26 PM#1 Themetalmaster , RedCandySHO Came up with these stainless braided lines that are claim to stop the fade feel better than anything short of a new master cylinder. RedCandySHO Premium Member -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 263 2010 Brakes Hey guys, I stumbled across a Goodridge part number for stainless braided lines for the SHO. I was almost ready to have a set made to solve the mushy brake pedal and came across them. Part Number is 12348 if anyone is interested. I am gonna give them a shot. 03-14-2013, 07:26 PM#1 Themetalmaster , RedCandySHO Came up with these stainless braided lines that are claim to stop the fade feel better than anything short of a new master cylinder. RedCandySHO Premium Member -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 263 2010 Brakes Hey guys, I stumbled across a Goodridge part number for stainless braided lines for the SHO. I was almost ready to have a set made to solve the mushy brake pedal and came across them. Part Number is 12348 if anyone is interested. I am gonna give them a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I thought that the stainless lines used something other then rubber for the liner, silicone or some other material that lasts longer then rubber.:noidea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedWagon Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 At one time the inner tubing was made from Teflon. One of the sources I read said the increased firmness with the 2013 PP was from a larger piston in the master cylinder. I thought that the stainless lines used something other then rubber for the liner' date=' silicone or some other material that lasts longer then rubber.:noidea:[/quote'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoman04 Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Well, I've got a couple reasons why I don't want to go with stainless lines. One, at $165 its almost as expensive as a new master + booster, and I'm not 100% sure it will be comparable. Two, manufactures put rubber brake lines on cars for cost and durability. Stainless brake lines need to replaced every two to three years. Stainless steel brake lines have braided stainless steel on the outside and rubber brake line on the inside. It is extremely difficult to detect wear or damage to the brake line. On a conventional rubber brake line, any tears or swelling are apparent. This is why anybody worth their salt who runs stainless lines replaces them on a ~2 year schedule. Three, I have driven a 2013 SHO and the brakes feel much better than on my 2011. I know that brake pedal feel is directly tied to the quality / capacity of the hydraulic system rather than the size of the brake disks / pads / calipers. Also having Ford designed parts specced for this application makes me feel better. I was just trying to see if anybody else had swapped 2013 parts or at least done more research than I have. I'm sure the parts will fit (at least the booster + MC will), I just want to make sure I'm ordering the right parts. I think we (2010-12)all would like to have better brakes but well the new hi temp brake fluid work with the old calbers? that are very expends to replace with the 2013 uints and how much is 2013 boost&master uint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 As long as its Dot 4 it should be fine. Its not like they switched to silicone fluid or anything. I used the word rubber loosely. The lining of the stainless lines is some kind of synthetic polymer. Whether its viton, Teflon or some other material. My point about not being able to detect damage and requiring more frequent placement is still valid. Anyway I'm going to go ahead and order those parts. I'll let you gentlemen (or ladies) know how it works out. I think we (2010-12)all would like to have better brakes but well the new hi temp brake fluid work with the old calbers? that are very expends to replace with the 2013 uints and how much is 2013 boost&master uint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83racecrew Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Motor State distributing is in Watervliet, Michigan, about 30 miles west of me. We buy all our parts for the race cars through them. Looking at this catalog page: http://www.motorstate.com/catalog-viewer?cat=66 (sorry, it doesn't link directly to the page, you want page 134). I think you could get any length line you wanted and put it on the car. I also know they sell adapters to go from the stock flare fittings to the AN fittings that are on the braided lines. We buy the line in a bulk 25 foot length, buy the fittings for the ends, and then build the lines custom for the cars, so if they don't have a length that will work, you can always build your own on all 4 corners. This stuff is teflon inside and will last just as long or longer than a stock flex hose. If anyone is interested, I will inquire as to the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFM5S159 Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Okay, been away for a while but I am also curious on the 2013 brake parts being installed on a '10-12 car. Has anyone done this swap? From my quick read of this thread a the parts needed are: 1. Master Cylinder 2. Booster (?) 3. Calipers 4. Caliper brackets/mounts 5. Rotors 6. Pads 7. Lines? So has anyone done this? I confess I have not spent hours hunting threads to find the answer to this... Thanks in advance. Mike C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoman04 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 2010-2012 vs 2013 Taurus Brake Specs? I am very interested in the specs of the brakes on the '13s versus the 10-12 SHO's. Input is greatly appreciated. I'm looking at fordparts.com for the updated master cylinder with the larger bore. The part numbers for the master cylinder I see for the 2013 model year Taurus are BRMC-118 and BRMC-167. The part number for the master cylinder I see for the 2011 model year Taurus is BRMC-118. Does this mean that BRMC-167 is the updated version of the master cylinder? P/N for 2011 brake booster : BRB59 P/N for 2013 brake booster : BRB65 I would buy both the master cylinder and brake booster in a heartbeat if I can get improved pedal feel. They are cheap on rockauto.com, like 200 bucks for both. Yeah' date=' I believe (similar to the 2010-2012 SHO), the "upgrades" are the pads, but also the pistons seem to be upgraded on the '13 PP SHO/Interceptor as well. Everything else is the same...so anyone got the dimensions? Mainly the width. Might be good to see if a simple caliper upgrade may be easy with the new rotors instead of going with more expensive 2-pc on the 2010-2012.[/quote'] As long as its Dot 4 it should be fine. Its not like they switched to silicone fluid or anything. I used the word rubber loosely. The lining of the stainless lines is some kind of synthetic polymer. Whether its viton, Teflon or some other material. My point about not being able to detect damage and requiring more frequent placement is still valid. Anyway I'm going to go ahead and order those parts. I'll let you gentlemen (or ladies) know how it works out. Okay, been away for a while but I am also curious on the 2013 brake parts being installed on a '10-12 car.Has anyone done this swap? From my quick read of this thread a the parts needed are: 1. Master Cylinder 2. Booster (?) 3. Calipers 4. Caliper brackets/mounts 5. Rotors 6. Pads 7. Lines? So has anyone done this? I confess I have not spent hours hunting threads to find the answer to this... Thanks in advance. Mike C. There been a lot of talk here about upgrading 2010-12 to 2013 but up to now every body said every thing from the wheel spindle out will not fix the old cars. But Timbo & Themetalmaster are thinking of changing Master cylinder/boost unit. mjhpadi is looking at better brake lines. Still other upgrade disk&pads.still other disk/pad/&caliper with aftermarket uints. I think the word is stillout on what the best bang for your bucks and your buck bang will be different if you autocross or just drive hard on the street?mmmmmmmmmm Sorry EBOF don't have a better answer on this one yet but we are looking, we will let our members know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I ordered the brake booster and master cylinder and they came in a few days ago. I've been really busy and haven't had a chance to put them on. The brake rotors and calipers / caliper brakets will not fit unless you swap out almost the entire front suspension. Including hubs and front struts. There is no reason to swap out the brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 The brake rotors and calipers / caliper brakets will NOT fit unless you swap out almost the entire front suspension. Including hubs and front struts. Yep..... that sounds accurate. TaurusBuilder (Greg) who used to work at the CAP (building the Taurus & the SHO's) looked 1st hand at the differences 'tween the '13 brakes & the prior MY's...... Said that the amount of work involved in retro fitting the '13 setup was extensive and almost cost prohibitive. Either way, still looking forward to confirmation of what I was told, so umm yea..... continued success in this specific endeavor for sure! Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFM5S159 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Hmmmm, so it looks like my best option is to start looking for a '13 SHO. Sounds good to me.... Mike C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 Honestly, me personally..... I'd hold out for complete overhaul / redesign of the forthcoming 2015 Model Year. :faint: Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 __________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHOdded Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 So a person of average mechanical skill should be able to perform this upgrade? Glad it worked out 4 u, metalmaster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themetalmaster Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 ___________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TractorAK Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Awesome write up. I can see where this will be a popular mod for the 10-12 my. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.