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Anyone watching? LOL, I bet there aren't many who aren't watching.

 

I know a couple of people attending this year and wish I could, tho I suspect I'd be getting myself in a bit of trouble buying.

 

The cream of the crop is on today and tomorrow for those not aware (on Speed. 2pm to 1am today and 2pm to 6pm tomorrow- Sunday).

 

Enjoy,

C.

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I love watching it' date=' but it also drives me crazy looking at all those nice cars with such crappy looking paint. I react to the paint so much that even my wife and kids say something about how some of those cars look.[/quote']

 

I'm thinking they're priced accordingly and the crappier the paint the lower the price.

Bringing back a crappy finish would be half the fun and very rewarding.

 

There sure were some nice 'driveable' rides there. More affordable for us. I'll leave the pristine rides to the collector's museums.

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I'm thinking they're priced accordingly and the crappier the paint the lower the price.

Bringing back a crappy finish would be half the fun and very rewarding.

 

There sure were some nice 'driveable' rides there. More affordable for us. I'll leave the pristine rides to the collector's museums.

 

Actually, the "shine" of the paint usually has very little to do with the cost of the car. If it isn't cracking, flaking, or rusting, it doesn't matter a lot to the price.

 

It would shock you how many of the people that are big time collectors know so little about proper paint care. Most of them don't even care. A good portion fo the time, when I am working a new client for the first time, they don't understand how bad their car looks until I show them what it could look like.

 

I did a Jag E type for one of my customers for a Concours D' Elegance a couple of months ago .. At the show, it was sitting next to another Jag that was restored by the same guy that did my customer's car. The other guy commented to my customer on how much better a job they shop did on my customer's paint, compared to his. My customer quickly corrected him by stating that they were the same paint job, just different detailers.

 

Even the commentators doing the BJ auction will comment on how "perfect" the paint is on a car while I am sitting in my recliner pointing out all the swirls and defects in it.

 

Just shows how OC I am about vehicle finishes, I guess. [ATTACH=CONFIG]116[/ATTACH]

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I understand entirely, Doug -- I have a friend who is a good detailer in TO and I've watched him work many times learning a lot about finishing and detailing.

It's quite an art and very rewarding what can be done. I must say, tho, it takes a real passion to do it day in and day out.

 

C.

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This is kinda off subject but as long as we are talking about paint an detailing...Doug, is there any product you really like to remove light swirls, and I do mean light, the kind that only show when looking at an angle in high light. But I agree with you Doug, it is truly amazing how little most people know about really making your finish look the best. Most people who I know that have nice cars are totally lost when you talk clay bar, paint cleaner, polish vs wax...I always find it somewhat surprising.

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This is kinda off subject but as long as we are talking about paint an detailing...Doug' date=' is there any product you really like to remove light swirls, and I do mean light, the kind that only show when looking at an angle in high light. But I agree with you Doug, it is truly amazing how little most people know about really making your finish look the best. Most people who I know that have nice cars are totally lost when you talk clay bar, paint cleaner, polish vs wax...I always find it somewhat surprising.[/quote']

 

I use Wolfgang products from Autogeek.net. First I would use a clay bar to remove all the contaminants. This will not only clean your finish, but it will also remove any existing wax to allow you to start from scratch (no pun intended). Do the plastic bag test where you clay bar a small section, then rub your fingers over the surface with a plastic bag over your hand (the plastic bag keeps oils from your hand from transferring onto the surface). You will really feel the difference. Using the clay bar will help water bead on the surface of your finish and make it easier to remove dirt when you wash it.

 

Then I would apply the swirl remover, and then the glaze. I use a light cutting foam pads for both. It is finished with a paint sealant. You might prefer a carnauba wax, which is cheaper, but the sealant will last longer. The Wolfgang products are not cheap, but they are worth it. All four stages of solvents will run you about $120 total.

 

Your finish is probably getting scratched when you wash your car. The two bucket wash process with a grit guard will minimize scratches when you wash your car causing the spider webbing. The two bucket process basically keeps you soapy water clean by rinsing your washing mitt in a separate bucket of clean water. The grit guard allows you to rub your mitt loosening dirt from the mitt and prohibits the existing dirt to be transferred back onto the mitt.

 

Picking the correct polisher is also key to a perfect finish. Definitely select a dual action polisher to start with. This will minimize the chances of damaging your finish. They not only will spin, but they oscillate back and forth reducing the chances of adding swirl marks to your finish. I purchased a Cyclo Orbital Polisher, which has two 4” pads instead of one single large pad. It is a little pricey. It will run you a little over $300 for the polisher and pads, but you can’t damage your finish with the Cyclo, no matter how bad you screw up. I also have a 3” Griot’s Garage polisher that I use on the A, B, and C pillars along with other tight places where the Cyclo won’t go.

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I do use a clay bar whenever I detail the car then follow with a cleaner, glaze and wax. I really don't believe that I am getting the swirls from washing, since I do completely rinse my wash mitt between returning to the wash bucket. I also change clothes often when detailing to prevent a dirty microfiber from scratching the surface. But I do appreciate the input so thanks for the info so far.

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Normally using a microfiber wafer towel, but have used terry cloth towel. The swirl marks are mainly on the hood which was repainted last summer to repair the stone damage...could it be that the swirl marks are from the body shop finishing the polishing of the hood?

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Qiuck Update-just ordered a Wolfgang Duo kit from Autogeek. It has a light cutting pad, Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 and Finishing Glaze. I am looking forward to trying these products since I am not familiar with Wolfgang. Also Autogeek has really peaked my interest in paint sealants...another area that I don't know much about. So any insight and recommendations on sealants will be helpful.

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I do use a clay bar whenever I detail the car then follow with a cleaner' date=' glaze and wax. I really don't believe that I am getting the swirls from washing, since I do completely rinse my wash mitt between returning to the wash bucket. I also change clothes often when detailing to prevent a dirty microfiber from scratching the surface. But I do appreciate the input so thanks for the info so far.[/quote']

 

Its obvious that you are a Jouneyman of the Detailing Arts. I haven't bought one yet, but a microfiber detailing apron probably isn't a bad idea, also.

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Qiuck Update-just ordered a Wolfgang Duo kit from Autogeek. It has a light cutting pad' date=' Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 and Finishing Glaze. I am looking forward to trying these products since I am not familiar with Wolfgang. Also Autogeek has really peaked my interest in paint sealants...another area that I don't know much about. So any insight and recommendations on sealants will be helpful.[/quote']

 

Autogeek also has a good article on paint sealants vs wax. I've heard some professionals use both. A sealant will last 4-6 months, which is a little longer than a wax. Some detailers will apply the sealant, then apply the wax over the sealant every month. That might be a little extreme for your average detailing hobbyist. Sealants also appear better on dark colored finishes. I have a black 500 that I applied a sealant to this past fall. I was amazed at how deep the shine looked.

 

I am interested in what Doug practices. I've only gleaned information from the internet. It would be very valuable to hear how a professional applies his magic without divulging trade secrets.

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Its obvious that you are a Jouneyman of the Detailing Arts. I haven't bought one yet' date=' but a microfiber detailing apron probably isn't a bad idea, also.[/quote']

 

I like to think that I am a bit above the journeyman stage of detailing...still have a lot to learn, but I believe that my work will stand up to most of the so called "professional detailers" in my area. I am always willing to learn more, so all constructive comments are welcome. I really am the most demanding of all my friends when it comes to taking care of my car finishes, but I still know there's an awful lot more to learn.

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I like to think that I am a bit above the journeyman stage of detailing...still have a lot to learn' date=' but I believe that my work will stand up to most of the so called "professional detailers" in my area. I am always willing to learn more, so all constructive comments are welcome. I really am the most demanding of all my friends when it comes to taking care of my car finishes, but I still know there's an awful lot more to learn.[/quote']

 

I think that's what IowaFoSho meant: that you are quite handy at detailing, and all but a master at it.

To my mind that's far and away more accomplished than most.

 

C.

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Qiuck Update-just ordered a Wolfgang Duo kit from Autogeek. It has a light cutting pad' date=' Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 and Finishing Glaze. I am looking forward to trying these products since I am not familiar with Wolfgang. Also Autogeek has really peaked my interest in paint sealants...another area that I don't know much about. So any insight and recommendations on sealants will be helpful.[/quote']

 

Remember, 95% of this is proper surface prep, and 5% is the LSP.

 

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is one of my absolute favorites.

 

I use a bunch of different sealants and waxes as LSP's .. The Wolfgang I mentioned above looks fantastic on darker colors, or any color metallic.

 

If I am going all the way, I will apply a sealant, then come back in 24 hours and apply a high quality carnauba like Meg's #16, Chemical Guys 50/50, Wet Obsession just to name a few. The carnauba offers a tiny bit more protection, but the real benefit is a much deeper shine, and helps you avoid the plastic wrap look you can get occasionally with a sealant.

 

 

Make sure you do a 50/50 (isopropyl alcohol and distilled water) wipe down after you are done removing defects, and before you apply the sealant. That removes any of the product that might be left on the vehicle, and prepares the surface to better bond with the sealant.

 

 

 

As for drying - I have found the safest way to be the following: sheet the water off the car when you are done rinsing, then blow off the rest with an electric leaf blower, then blot the final few spots dry with a high quality MF waffle weave.

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