DIY: Front Switch back LED lights.

[Kolk1]

First, what does switch back mean, basically how it sounds. It will give you a White running lights, then Switch Back to Amber for Turn signals.

 

I only ordered front ones. Once you click on the front bulbs, you can choose what color, or switch back (half yellow half white)

 

I ordered from Diode Dynamics, my friend Paul owns the company.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/index.php/led-bulbs/listed-by-vehicle/ford/taurus.html?year=101

 

This is a video of them, if anybody is still confused about what switch backs are.

 

 

Ok, I only ordered the stage 1, I did not feel the need to spend the extra $22 on the stage 2. That being said, and now that they are installed. I feel the brightness in person, is equal. I did find out during testing that our Blinkers even though they are the same bulb, are brighter during Turn, than they are for running lights. The LEDs are Equal to the OEM running lights, Maybe a "hair" dimmer than our OEM blinkers, but not much.

 

YES you will need the resistors, or you will have a fast blinker. I tried them without first, and then realized I needed them, and then decided that this should probably be made into a DIY thread. lol

 

Stock bulb compared to new LED bulb

 

Passenger side wiring, You will need to TAP into(not cut) the 2 outside wires,

 

The resistors come with Crimp taps, I hate those with a passion, so I soldered and taped mine.

 

You will need to remove your intake, to get to the wiring for the drivers side. I was barley able to change the bulb while leaving it in, but then realized I had to resistors, and no way you are getting to that wiring with the intake in place. After that, it was very easy.

 

Here is the driverside wiring, once again, you will use the 2 outside wires. Notice both passenger and driver have matching center wires, Thats the 12V switched wire for running lights, You dont need to touch that.

 

My quick video showing what they look like. The video kinda kills the brightness of the LEDs compared to the normal bulb, but this is also in a Very well lit garage. Click on pic to watch video.

 

 

And heres another video with the engine on, and headlights on, so you can see them how they would look at night. As you can see by the stripes on my hood, all 5 rows of lights are on, in the garage. lol Click on pic to watch video.

[Die_End]

Interesting write up and something that can help some people looking at LED lights, switch back or not. One question with the resistor do you need to do any mounting or special placement. I know someone warned me that they can become hot. Not sure if that is the case with the resistors you show in the picture as it looks like it has some heat sink build around it already.

[Kolk1]

I just zip tied them to the side of the wire loom. If it was a constant use resistor, Id be more worried about heat, but since this is for a blinker, its probably only on for about 5-10 seconds at a time, maybe 30 seconds at a stop light, but then its probably off again for a good period of time. Unless you are a complete dick and never use blinkers, then you really dont have to worry. lol

[83racecrew]

What a timely write up. I have just exhausted my last straw in to getting anything to work without a load resistor. I was really hoping I could find a bulb that would work, but they all fail when the headlights are on.

[Echo42987]

I am going to be ordering the same pair. Going to try out the Stage 2 for the front. Thanks for the write up!

[Kolk1]

No problem. Ive seen some of his other stage 2 and a couple stage 3 stuff, they get almost blinding. My buddy has Stage 2 dome lights, and its light day time in there at night when he opens the door. lol

[SHO Rod]

One question with the resistor do you need to do any mounting or special placement. I know someone warned me that they can become hot. Not sure if that is the case with the resistors you show in the picture as it looks like it has some heat sink build around it already.

 

The 6 ohm resistors they sell are typically 50W resistors. P = V^2/R = 14.5^2 / 6 = 35 Watts. Since the duty cycle is about 50% (off for the same amount of time it's on), the resistor is only dissipating 17.5 Watts worst-case while the turn signals are on.

 

If you're replacing the brake light bulbs, you've got the full 35 Watts while the brakes are applied. But even so, unless you tend to drive with two feet and ride the brake pedal, that 50W resistor is not going to get too hot.

 

-Rod