Unknown_Driver Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Start By Removing the Trunk interior Panels to start, lift the (trunk opening scuff plate) black plastic where the trunk latch is up towards the sky it will pop out fairly easily, next unscrew every sticking out plastic tab on the sides near the tail lights and the trunk net hooks now take a grommet removal tool and pry on every flat body panel grommet (some are very difficult to remove fully) you will also need to fold down the rear seats to access 2 grommets, next step door sill plate... you will need to lift up the door sill plate firmly they are very difficult now grab your power wire and find out which grommet in the firewall you want to pass it through, this is entirely your decision but everyone has chosen a different route (the one i used is not recommended and won't be mentioned in this post :rofl: ) the best route is located just below the drivers side wiper :dribble: if you own an older model amplifier that requires a remote turn on 12 volt positive signal, under the steering wheel well above the brake pedal (way up in there) you will find a fuse box thats not easily accessible by anyone taller than 4'6 and a body contortionist ex upside down pole dancer, in your manual you will find a mini fuse labeled "delayed accessory fuse" this is where you will be adding a tap-a-fuse, add-a-circuit connector thing. run your remote wire to this :naughty:, for added safety i also added another low amperage inline fuse closer to the amp (do not use any fuses with more than 10 amps with any tap-a-fuse type of connector) now to grab that audio signal... don't touch anything here its hopeless :rofl: you will need to pull down on the liner covering the subs in the trunk, just pull down firmly, you will find velcro and a few useless body clips keeping it in place, take any line converter the best choice would be an Audiocontrol LC2i, i went with a Scosche 2 channe LOC80 rebranded as E2 at canadian tire which handles 80 watts per channel, wrapspeaker wire on the terminals of the factory subwoofers (this allows you to keep factory bass going, no neeed to splice any factory wire) now twist the other end of the speaker wire to the line converter wire and wrap with electrical tape or shrinkwrap (soldering would be awesome) now grab some 2 way adhevsive sticky tape and stick your line conveter somewhere onto the side (probably close to the tail light access flap screws so you can make adjustments down the road) now to find a grounding location for that negative wire this is entirely up to you, some people sand a random metal spot and bolt it or if you were me, attach it to the grounding plate where the factory amp was :naughty: now perform a quick test with everything wired properly don't forget you must have a fuse close to the battery on the positive side of the main power wire, please use the proper wire gauge for power do not use anything smaller than 8 gauge for whatever reason as it may result in a fire. everything run fine? tuck the wire in the door sills reconnect the panels and tune to your ears content :dribble: congrats you now have king kong in your trunk Tools you will need: Electricians Pliers Wire Cutters Sharp Scissors Digital Multimeter Panel Removal Tool 10mm wrench More Pictures ASAP i was too busy driving around :rofl: couldn't believe i spent most of my time checking the voltage of every connector/fuse/light socket just to find a 12 volt remote signal :rofl: thank god for having an event tent it was 32c today :sun: EDIT: UPDATE MORE PICS this is the fuse panel below the steering column where the add-a-circuit or tap a fuse is located to give you a better idea the red wire with the blue connector is the add-a-circuit you may want to add another ground point for the battery to chassis connection although the rear grounding plate works well just for added safety i added another ground point using an M8 bolt with washer and nut you will need to sand down some paint for a proper ground. you can also see the location of the line converter the line converter was added by twisting on wire to the factory speaker terminals (no splicing to any factory wiring was necessary) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got5onIt Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Sweet!! I told myself I wouldn't be adding a sub when i first got the SHO, but this thread has me itching to do it. I'm pissed I just sold off my JL sub & amp! Great write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbulldog Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 A little more thump in the trunk!!:heh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Thanks for the fantastic write up UD! I'm sure the community, and those that may undertake this mod, will find their project much easier as a result of your contributions! I rated your thread and also added much valued rep points to your EB account. When more audio write ups are completed, I'll be sure to create a sticky thread and attach this write up to it accordingly! :thumb: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IowaFoSho Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Nice write up. The pics are very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssho Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Great information and well documented with pics. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoolinX2 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Just a few questions, as I've been out of the car audio scene too long... If an amp has speaker-level inputs, the line-out converter can be eliminated right? Also, where can you find the tap-a-fuse thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got5onIt Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Yes, if your amp has speaker level inputs you will not need a LOC. I've ordered single fuse taps & add-a-circuit taps from amazon & eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 If you want to not have the 80hz cut off and have your aftermarket amp work at its peak with the factory headunit sub output. http://www.reqsound.com/ You power that bad boy up and you will be amazed. If my heated garage was not packed right now, My projects would not be on hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 How MUCH????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got5onIt Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 If you want to not have the 80hz cut off and have your aftermarket amp work at its peak with the factory headunit sub output. http://www.reqsound.com/ You power that bad boy up and you will be amazed. If my heated garage was not packed right now, My projects would not be on hold. Linky no worky. Sounds interesting, what is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoolinX2 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 I picked up a line-out converter at a local audio shop for $20 and ordered a add-a-circuit from Summit last night for $4. Anxious to get started on this. My biggest hold is figuring out how I want to lay it all out so that I don't sacrifice trunk space. Likely involve building a custom box or two. I've got a Kenwood 800w amp and an Alpine Type-R 12" that would work duckily. Back in the day in my Thunderbird, I had the same amp and sub, along with a full air bag setup completely hidden in my trunk. I'm kinda OCD like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 How MUCH????? It normally goes for $80 for the 3channel, And a lil over $100 for the 5 channel. Heres a hands on tutorial, And forward to 2:25 for the ReQ in this next link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 I picked up a line-out converter at a local audio shop for $20 and ordered a add-a-circuit from Summit last night for $4. Anxious to get started on this. My biggest hold is figuring out how I want to lay it all out so that I don't sacrifice trunk space. Likely involve building a custom box or two. I've got a Kenwood 800w amp and an Alpine Type-R 12" that would work duckily. Back in the day in my Thunderbird, I had the same amp and sub, along with a full air bag setup completely hidden in my trunk. I'm kinda OCD like that. Fullfill your OCD, Check out the first video. You may wish to return your converter for the $20 and put it towards a ReQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoolinX2 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Looking for other opinions/thoughts... I crawled into the trunk last night, literally, and I have to admit, it's the most comfortable trunk I've ever been in. That being said, I started to visualize how I want to lay things out. And I have a few concerns... One, being amp mounting. I notice my amp would fit perfect under the rear deck between the two stock 6x9's. I've also heard a lot of negativity of mounting amps upside-down due to heat soaking. My amp does, however, have a small cooling fan on it already, and the heat sinks appear to be located on the ends (I've yet to open it up and see how it is internally constructed). Two, moutning the sub. I think I want to do a custom enclosure and mount the sub on the left side of the trunk. I could do this pretty easily as is, but I could gain a good bit more room by moving/relocating the factory stereo amp. I don't see any issues with this as long as it is still grounded. If I leave the factory amp in place, would there be any issues with my sub sitting directly in front of it. The Type-R magnet is pretty beefy...I just don't know how its magnet would affect an amp being so close to it. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got5onIt Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Unless you have the cover off the amp and the sub magnet physically touching components, you'll be fine. I think the only issue (highly unlikely, IMO) with your sub being close to your amp would be bass causing the amp to vibrate and possibly damaging internal components. Most powered subs have amplifiers internally mounted and I've seen many home brewed boxes with amps mounted on the box itself (not recommended), thumping fine with zero issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbulldog Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I went from this.... To this..... A lot less weight and got most of my trunk back:biggrin1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got5onIt Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 What kind of bass tube is that? Is it custom build? Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbulldog Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Thanks! It's a Bazooka 12" and the amp is a 1000 Watt Kenwood at 4 ohms (bridged). There is also a 1 Farad capacitor tied in to prevent lights dimming. It's mounted in the spare tire well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfiresho Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 I've got an alpine type R 12" in 2.25 cuft ported box with a Rockford t500.2 pushing it. I went with the audio control lc2i. It slams down low but still having issues getting the lc2i to compensate for the roll off. Driving me nuts. Too much bass down low drowns out the music and it's flat when I crank it and want to slam. Still working on all the final touches to finish the trim panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildosvt Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Thanks! It's a Bazooka 12" and the amp is a 1000 Watt Kenwood at 4 ohms (bridged). There is also a 1 Farad capacitor tied in to prevent lights dimming. It's mounted in the spare tire well. Bulldog, Have you tried to see how the tube works mounted sideways between the rear seat? I know that facing a rear corner is optimal in most cases. But curiosity has me wondering. And do you still have the 6x9s working? I wish work has not been hogging up my free time plus being a father. I want to start toying with the stereo so bad.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbulldog Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Bulldog, Have you tried to see how the tube works mounted sideways between the rear seat? I know that facing a rear corner is optimal in most cases. But curiosity has me wondering. And do you still have the 6x9s working? I wish work has not been hogging up my free time plus being a father. I want to start toying with the stereo so bad.. Hi Wildosvt: Between the seats is a pain to mount because the antenna for the FOB is located right there in the middle under the carpet. Yes, the 6x9's are still intact. I just used the high inputs off the rear door speakers for the amp. Since this is such a low frequency (95 Hz set), the input whether high or low does not make a difference (you won't hear it anyway). I'm also wired at 4 ohms to the amp. Sorry it took so long to respond, been away on business...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpoolinX2 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Where have you guys gone through the firewall at with the power wire? Looks pretty cramped, and hard to find any grommets which can be used...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbulldog Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Ahh yes, that was the biggest pain in the A$$!! If you remove the wipers and cowl, and look down on the drivers side, you'll see a large rubber boot. I went in there and then down by the SJB (Smart Junction Box) under the dash. Or, look at the meth injection thread that Mike started and there's an area to drill through around the steering linkage against the firewall. Good luck! Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobria Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 anyone ever seen one of these in person. Expensive but seems like a great way to maintain all the space in the trunk. JL doesn't usually suck either. http://www.crutchfield.com/g_530/Vehicle-specific-Enclosures-with-Subs.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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