Slowsho Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Hey like the title says I have a non-pp and would like to upgrade my brakes and rotors seems like my stockers are shitting the bed.(sat at a dealer for 5months) but any suggestions? I've been even thinking oem but would like to hear what other people are running. Thanks :behindsofa: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 There are a few options for '10-'12 SHO Brake pads. Hawk offers their LTS pads(HD & Longer Life) for the front and their HPS pads for the rear. They also offer their Ceramic pads for the F&R. EBC also offers their Green, Red & Yellowstuff pads for F&R. As far as rotors i would go with some OEM style blanks for best price/performance combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 No way would I go OEM myself. Better options out there. My plan once I get a little more use out of the stock brakes, is to get EBC Sport Rotors and red stuff pads. Had that combo before and loved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 No way would I go OEM myself. Better options out there. My plan once I get a little more use out of the stock brakes' date=' is to get EBC Sport Rotors and red stuff pads. Had that combo before and loved it.[/quote'] There are better option out there for performance driving(Mountain Road/Road Course.) But for DD and occasionally drag strip they are not worth the price. OEM style rotors run about $280 for a F&R set. EBC Sport Rotors run $600 a set. I may go as far as Powerslot rotors, they run about $314 set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Its worth a few hundred extra bucks to me even though I never track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash712us Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I'm happy with my EBC Ultimax rotors and red stuff pads. While I agree with RacerX it is a lot of bread for the street. While I am uncertain about OEM rotor quality cause my OE rotor only had about 12k on them and they where still good. But EBC has cheaper options there OEM replacement rotors aren't to expensive. But I think you would be happy with good quality pad and decent rotor your braking will be much improved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 OEM rotors (at least for the 10 thru 12 models) are horse crap. I, and several others have replaced them quite routinely due to premature wear and/or warping. I would NEVER purposely pick up OEM blanks at all. Hell, I'd even think twice about putting them on, even if they were given to me for free. Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve142857 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I changed my front rotors and pads about 5K miles ago and I went from OEM to EBC slotted and ventilated rotors and ceramix pads (mix of ceramic and metal). When I was drag racing, at the end braking from 120mph to 0 in not too long distance was almost scary. It would make a big noise and I needed to step on it hard in order to brake, especially after a few runs in a row. Now with current setup (and rear not even done yet), it brakes very easily without the loud noise of unpowerful brakes. However, the fact that they are ventilated and slotted comes with a little noise audible when driving windows down, that is louder when driving beside a wall or another car... But all worth it... Also, they need to be warmed up a bit in order to brake well otherwise they are not good at all. My own feeling tells me that from 60-0 mph is down easily 15% and most importantly, repeatable over and over... I don't remember the exact price, but I believe it was around 500$-600$ for front setup including install... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to be visiting the drag strip prob 4-5x next year. Want 12s hopefully. I've noticed a few times slowing down from 90/100 the brakes are loud I believe the back rotors are beat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 OEM rotors (at least for the 10 thru 12 models) are horse crap. I, and several others have replaced them quite routinely due to premature wear and/or warping. I would NEVER purposely pick up OEM blanks at all. Hell, I'd even think twice about putting them on, even if they were given to me for free. Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2 My '10 had over 26K miles on it with the same factory pads and rotors, which included me autox with them, and i never had a problem. I've raced on a road course for two days on OEM blanks. Never had any issues with the rotors. I'll agree with Crash712us that with a good brake pad will yield the best results in braking over rotors. The problem with the '10-12 no matter what pads or rotors you put on them when you step on the brake pedal you get very little confidence as to whats going to actually happen. Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to be visiting the drag strip prob 4-5x next year. Want 12s hopefully. I've noticed a few times slowing down from 90/100 the brakes are loud I believe the back rotors are beat up. I'd look into some EBC brakes pads. They have the Yellowstuff that is supposed to be good for the street and track. That will yet your best braking results. Side question, i see you and a MS6 & 2 MS3's. I used to have modded '10 MS3. Were you on MSF.org? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I'd look into some EBC brakes pads. They have the Yellowstuff that is supposed to be good for the street and track. That will yet your best braking results. Side question, i see you and a MS6 & 2 MS3's. I used to have modded '10 MS3. Were you on MSF.org? Yea still active been over there for 3 years. I'm in Nator New England a lot. Name on msf is bigjimms3 I had a freektune from Justin running a E85 mix. E85 did wonders for my speed haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Ok....I've been there about the same time, same S/N. I was never tuned but i did have TMIC, SRI, CBE with TP, RSB, eibachs & Koni's. Even without the tune it made a huge difference in the speed. I'm still on the fence with tuning the SHO, i'm more confident than i was with the speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casperl878 Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 i could of not said it better then bpd !!! 2010-12 pads,rotors are horrible, im pretty sure that was the first thing they changed and needed to on the 13's, ebc REDstuff pads,rotors are a good combo, so far.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerx78 Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Though they look the same i believe they still have different size Rotors for PP and Non PP. If thats true you could also look into getting the '13 Non PP Rotors since they have a much better design for heat dissipation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsouth77 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 i see that baer is making decelarotors for the 13 sho part numbers 40014-020 for the fronts and 54125-020 for the rears. slotted and cross drilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 IMO the factory rotors are good for maybe anchors for a bass boat. Mine were warped to shit at 45k so I upgraded to powerslots in the front with abc red pads all the way around. Long story short, my front p/s wheel bearing crapped out and after about 50 runs at the track the powerslots are now warped. I do like the grip of the red pads but will soon be replacing all my rotors with EBC Slotted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoman04 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Has any body hear of AKEBONO BRAKES&ROTORS? My FORD Service Manager drives a F150 EB w/LMS TUNE. He ask if I was going with the down pipe becauce he was. So he will alway give me up-date on thing I may want on my car. Yesterday I had the brakes check at 40kmi,rotor to thin to turn, brakes was near replacement time. I told him about maybe going with EBC. He said check out AKEBONO LOOK/SOUND GOOD ON WEB PAGE. And better price than EBC. Also his brake man said if not track only a car slotted only is better for DD/sometime tracked as for as long lasting. What do you guys know? http://www.placeforbrakes.com/products/brake-pads-and-sensors/akebono-brakes?check=1&gclid=CNm_y6a1zbUCFQ3NnAodh3UAjA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpd1151 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 When I consulted with the representative from EBC prior to purchasing my upgrades.... I advised him that my SHO was essentially a DD, that sees some relative track use. Based on all the variables I provided, including the given dry curb weight of my car, he suggested the best set up would be slotted only rotors, coupled with their "Yellow Pads". Apparently using both slotted AND dimpled / cross drilled rotors is suggested primarily for cars that see 90% track use only. Thus the reason I went with what I did recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHOdded Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 No personal experience with EBC. I have had Akebono ceramics on the front of my Gen2 SHO based on my service rep's recommendation. Quiet, non-dusting, etc. Did not like the stopping power tho. Went back to my trusty Performance Friction CM pads afterwards. DD duty. Yes, they dust, but they have yet to fail me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Well i ended up getting EBC front and backs oem replacement rotors with the green stuff brake pads. Only issues im having is that im feeling a studder/wobble getting on the brakes lightly slowing down from really anything over 40. Its alot worse when I get it up to like 80 and ease on the brakes. Need help/opinions lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash712us Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Sound like you have bad rotor, or improperly seated such a dirty or rusted hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83racecrew Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Yep, one of the rotors is warped or one of them didn't seat all the way against the mounting plate, so it is flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Such a pain in the ass I just replaced all of them and did the whole bedded crap. I was having issues with the stock ones now these. Should I return the rotors. They shouldnt shit the bed 1 week having them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83racecrew Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Do you feel the shake in the steering wheel or in your back side (as in through the seat)? If the shudder/shake is in the wheel you know it is a front, otherwise it is a rear. It is fairly doubtful that a rotor would be that crooked from a supplier unless they were not stored flat. I would check to make sure they are flush on the backing plates. When you say bedded, you mean you bedded the pads after installation with some hard stops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowsho Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Do you feel the shake in the steering wheel or in your back side (as in through the seat)?If the shudder/shake is in the wheel you know it is a front, otherwise it is a rear. It is fairly doubtful that a rotor would be that crooked from a supplier unless they were not stored flat. I would check to make sure they are flush on the backing plates. When you say bedded, you mean you bedded the pads after installation with some hard stops? Yea im going to have my buddy take a look at it on the lift to make sure everything is fine. Yea some hard stops not super hard to have the abs go off or anything but did a few of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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