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PP springs vs aftermarket springs.


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Well im assembling my list of "to do" mods and im still debating a set of springs to lower the car.

 

My question is seeing as how I have the PP with the performance springs, would I even need to change to the HR or others? Keep in mind I also want to do the oil and tranny cooler so if my PP springs are good then Ill put springs towards the bottom.

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I had the H&R's installed on my 2011 PP and never looked back. The looks and performance gains are undeniable. I loved the way the car handled completely stock and the ride is slightly stiffer on the H&R's but only noticeable on rough road conditions. I will be purchasing a 2013 PP this weekend and already arranging to have the H&R's installed.

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  • 5 weeks later...

As far as I am aware, there is/was no difference in springs between the Non-PP pkg, versus the PP pkg for the 2010-2012 model years.

 

The differences were larger diameter sway bars, upgraded brake pads, slightly different calibrated steering protocols, and the deletion of the spare tire.

 

I could be incorrect, but am just going off of memory.

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As far as I am aware, there is/was no difference in springs between the Non-PP pkg, versus the PP pkg for the 2010-2012 model years.

 

The differences were larger diameter sway bars, upgraded brake pads, slightly different calibrated steering protocols, and the deletion of the spare tire.

 

I could be incorrect, but am just going off of memory.

 

Thanks.

 

I wouldn't want to get a PP car and then replace those parts with aftermarket stuff, would be wasted money.

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As far as I am aware, there is/was no difference in springs between the Non-PP pkg, versus the PP pkg for the 2010-2012 model years.

 

The differences were larger diameter sway bars, upgraded brake pads, slightly different calibrated steering protocols, and the deletion of the spare tire.

 

I could be incorrect, but am just going off of memory.

 

I really thought there was a different spring but after checking my reference new car brochure you are right the springs are the same. The difference in harshness I felt when test driving both PP and non PP might just be the 20 inchers.

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Oh yea, the other difference between the 2010-2012 Non-PP versus PP cars was the gear ratio.

 

I believe on the Non-PP cars it was a final drive ratio of 2.77, and on the PP's it was 3.16 or something like that.

 

There has been some debate as to whether or not these differences were negligible once mods were introduced to either platform.

 

Sorry for not having included that in my original reply. Hope that's of some help :thumb:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

MOTOERTREND 2010 SAID DRIFFERENT.

 

Adult Entertainment: The Taurus SHO turns 21, grows up.

 

 

From the June 2009 issue of Motor Trend |

 

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Naturally the SHO gets its own unique spring and damping rates, anti-roll bars, strut mount bushings, electric-power-steering calibration, and big 19- or 20-inch tires. Standard SHO tuning provides a nice, grown-up ride/handling compromise and reasonable all-weather performance. For those still harboring some wild-child hormones, the "12S-SHO Performance Package" ($995) buys 20-inch Eagle F1 Supercar summer rubber, performance brake pads (clamping identical discs), 20-percent-stiffer damping, nine-percent-stiffer rear springs, and a bigger rear anti-roll bar plus a shorter final-drive ratio (3.17:1 versus 2.77:1), and performance tuning of the power steering and AdvanceTrac stability control systems.

So equipped, our SHO car felt far nimbler and more agile than its Rubenesque dimensions would suggest. The summer Goodyears stifle cornering squeal more effectively than a ball-gag, but their aggressive tread pattern generates copious road noise on the straights. Body motions are well controlled, and careful trail-braking can induce gentle slides at the rear with AdvanceTrac in its sportiest setting. The suspension cushions potholes admirably given the car's mission, but impact noise comes through pretty clearly, making the car sound like it rides worse than it does. The helm is nicely weighted, but with the front tires shouldering 60 percent of the load, little of the information they gather about how much of the available friction is being used at the moment finds its way to the wheel rim. In terms of numbers, the new SHO crushes all previous versions: 0.87 g on the skidpad; 60-0 braking in just 112 feet. Compare that with 0.83 g for the 1989 and '91 models, and 128 feet for the 1996 SHO. Relative to the cooking-grade 2010 Taurus, that's 0.06 g stickier and 17-feet shorter, and the SHO outruns it on the figure-eight by 0.8 second and that same 0.06 g.

 

 

 

 

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Read more: http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedans/112_0909_2010_ford_taurus_sho_test/viewall.html#ixzz2NTWFd7Fn

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Steve was joking.

 

Also, in your OP, you ask if the quoted 400hp was valid?

 

400 where? At the fly, or the wheels?

 

Cuz i'll tell 'ya what, I myself am at 400, but that is at the wheels.

 

It's taken a bit to get to that mark, including the methanol.

 

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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I Thought he asked if 400$ was a

Good price for installation, I presumed with alignement etc.

I would think under 300$ would be more decent.

The springs can be bought at 270$ or better. I got them in special from Essex in Vancouver for 254$ plus 20$ shipping within Canada... Finally we get a good deal in Canada!

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I have a special sense of humor... Must be a brain freeze after our too long winters. ;)

No hp for sure but performance improvement no doubt.

0-60 or 1/4 mile lowered by up to 0.2 sec.

So you won't see it on a dyno and yes I was making a joke but you will feel it...

 

 

Gotcha ;). Just don't want to get raped by my local suspension shop. Have the HR sitting here, just haven't gotten around to pay to have em put on.

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