Little project, test pipes.

[Kolk1]

Ok so I'm getting bored waiting on the bike to be done and have too much free time on my hands.

 

So I decided to try out a project of making test pipes. First stage is just me testing the sound of no primary cats. If no drastic difference, this will be followed by a catless X pipe to replace the 3rd cat.

 

First step, get ahold of some primary cats

 

 

Step 2, cut one end off so you can get to the inner honeycomb.

 

 

Step 3, beat out all of the honeycomb lol

 

 

Step 4, weld the ends back on.

 

 

I do not plan on leaving them like this. I am not fond of the turbulence that will happen from the exhaust getting large then shrinking again. But I'm just doing this step to test sound. Next will be my buddy replacing the larger part of the cat with a exact size pipe as the rest of the exhaust. He's pretty back logged so it maybe a month or so before he can do them for me.

 

I also want to test to see if I get a check engine light with no O2 extensions without the cats. If I do, I'll add extensions, reset the code and try again.

 

Side note, if anybody might be interested in the finished product(not what I made) he said he might entertain making more. Obviously first he needs to make mine to get a better idea on how much he'd sell this for or if they would worth his time.

[Kolk1]

And how much are they?....

 

And how does a larger downpipes help when the rest of the exhaust is stock? This is just to get rid of the heat and the restriction of the cat.

[Kolk1]

That's not what I'm saying. Why have a 3 inch down pipe when everything else is 2? I'm sure it's better than stock, but a $100 free flowing 2 inch, is better than a highly restrictive 2inch. That's my point. $100, not 600 or $850...

 

If I do a full exhaust, then yes, a larger matching downpipes would be great. But if the full exhaust is 2, then a catless free flowing and catless 2inch, for only $100 will work just fine.

[Paulford8]

Nice budget exhaust plan.

[Kolk1]

Nice budget exhaust plan.

 

Thanks. I guess I should explain it better as to why im doing this:

 

What would you rather have?

A) OEM exhaust, or

OEM Exhaust with no Cats for $100

 

When I do the X pipe, that will be another $30-40. So lets just say, No cats at all, for $150.

[mhenne4]

Thanks. I guess I should explain it better as to why im doing this:

 

What would you rather have?

A) OEM exhaust, or

OEM Exhaust with no Cats for $100

 

When I do the X pipe, that will be another $30-40. So lets just say, No cats at all, for $150.

 

If it all works out throw the dynomax mufflers for 250ish and you'll have a full system from the downpipes for $500 instead of 1800

[shoman04]

 

If it all works out throw the dynomax mufflers for 250ish and you'll have a full system from the downpipes for $500 instead of 1800

Sounds like what I would like but here in Ga. I have to do emission control test here. Will this sys pass emission?

[Kolk1]

My system im doing? No. But thats why I picked up a 2nd pair of cats. Even though my county doesnt do emissions or saftey, I prefer to test this out on spare parts.

 

 

Brings me to a question, Anybody know if the Livernois Stage 4 tune dissables the rear O2 sensors? Figured Id ask before I bought a set of O2 caps to cheat them.

[Bigjht]

Sounds like what I would like but here in Ga. I have to do emission control test here. Will this sys pass emission?

 

Unless they do more checking now you would be fine as long as you aren't tripping a DTC for the cats, which can be taken care of with a tune. They are suppose to do a visual inspection but even if they did in this case it would appear as if the cats were there since the are hollowed out. They basically just plug in to the OBD2 port and check to see if there are any emissions codes present. I passed numerous times in GA with a catless Xpipe on my 99 Mustang GT with a tune that turned the rear O2 sensors off.

[Kolk1]

After getting under the car today, and started removing bolts, I decided Im going to wait. Im still going to do it, but Im going to wait until my buddy redoes them to keep them the same size diameter, instead of bulging where the cat used to be. Im just not in the mood to do it twice from the look of it. And ill just do the catless X pipe at the same time.

[shoman04]

Unless they do more checking now you would be fine as long as you aren't tripping a DTC for the cats' date=' which can be taken care of with a tune. They are suppose to do a visual inspection but even if they did in this case it would appear as if the cats were there since the are hollowed out. They basically just plug in to the OBD2 port and check to see if there are any emissions codes present. I passed numerous times in GA with a catless Xpipe on my 99 Mustang GT with a tune that turned the rear O2 sensors off.[/quote'] i HAVE LMS tune how would I get the o2 sensors turn off.

[bpd1151]

Shoman04 you gotta PM or Email Rick & request them to do that (turnoff your rear O2's).

 

I think currently, I am the only one to have had this done (since I am also the only one running completely catless at this point).

 

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[Kolk1]

Is he charging extra for that? Id rather have mine turned off as well.

[bpd1151]

IDK really..... Rick is currently in Dubai anyhow, and won't be back (state side) for like 2more weeks I think anyhow.

 

I paid for dyno time when I drove out to LMS last fall, incorporated in that dyno tune, was the rear o2's being shut off.

 

I would yield and/or defer to Rick for that ultimate answer.

 

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[Kolk1]

Yea, I knows hes out of the country so I thought id ask.

 

But id much rather turn off my Rear O2s, than trying to use the old Spark plug anti fouler trick. Just knowing that he can turn them off, makes me happy.

 

Now he just needs to figure out how to make it so 75% of the power goes to the rear tires. lol

[bpd1151]

That last issue is still being investigated.

 

The vendor that makes the PTU's makes them all the same way.

 

It's FMC that does something to them after being received, that changes the percentages from front to rear, in different platforms.

 

I would assume that that change is tune related.

 

Again, still being looked into. No addt'l 411 I am able to, or allowed to provide at this juncture.

 

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[shoman04]

Make sure to share when you can' date=' two things holding people back, functionality of AWD system or defeating it and allowing car to act as FWD and complete removal of traction control to allow for front slicks.[/quote']2 things Why kind you not use slick on the fwr w/traction control on? AND w/ the PP able to turn off the tration control totally can you use slicks w/PP?

[Kolk1]

That last issue is still being investigated.

 

The vendor that makes the PTU's makes them all the same way.

 

It's FMC that does something to them after being received, that changes the percentages from front to rear, in different platforms.

 

I would assume that that change is tune related.

 

Again, still being looked into. No addt'l 411 I am able to, or allowed to provide at this juncture.

 

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I know plenty of people, doing more power than me are anxiously waiting for that to happen. Even at my power level, id pay for that upgrade already.

[SHOdded]

Anyone know how beefy the internals for the rear drive are? If Ford intended only 10% power back there on a daily basis, when would upgrades be necessary?

[Crash712us]

I believe the manufacturer has said the rear diff is capable of handling close to 600 ft/lbs of torque.

[First-SHO]

I believe the manufacturer has said the rear diff is capable of handling close to 600 ft/lbs of torque.

 

Right, 590 ft/lb and it is adjustable with programming, but I don't believe anyone has figured it out yet, or can even be done. The mfg told me the coupler is programmable, but Ford changes things when they get the complete unit from them.

[SHOdded]

I believe the manufacturer has said the rear diff is capable of handling close to 600 ft/lbs of torque.

 

Cool, thanks!

[Kolk1]

Im not sure how programming goes on this type of thing, but if the module just does a percentage, then probably something around 30front 70rear would be ideal. But I always hear that ours maxes out the rear at 150. Not sure if 150 is just a percentage of stock OR no matter how much power you do its 150 rear, but if thats the case, then most people would probably want that 150max, to be bumped up to 300. Since ill say MOST will probably stop at Stage 4.

 

What would be great is if/when Livernois or somebody figures it out, its just part of the reflash. Stage 3 will put 250 to the rear, Stage 4 will do 300 rear, stage 5 will do 350 rear and so on. If they cant just set a certain percentage.

[timbo]

And how much are they?....

 

And how does a larger downpipes help when the rest of the exhaust is stock? This is just to get rid of the heat and the restriction of the cat.

 

I didn't realize this was brought up. On a turbo car, you need to evacuate the exhaust from right after the turbo. The design of this turbine housing is actually pretty good with a "chamber" right after the turbine wheel. The main purpose is to get the turbulent exhaust away from the wheel. It's not uncommon to see 3" exhausts off of a relatively small turbo. Getting the turbulence away from the wheel will increase every aspect of the turbo: spool time, max boost capability, etc. Most turbo exhaust manifolds are holding 20+psi, and these I would guess are well over 30psi with the size and design of the manifolds/turbos.

 

As for the power differential split: most AWD cars will run around a 40/60 split. I truly believe ford tuned the system to act like a FWD car because most people drive a FWD car. Getting in a car that is presumed to act like a FWD car and have it drive like an overweight Evo might cause some alarm. I don't see why, if they have the capabilty, they didn't make the car the best that they could. Although, judging by the brakes (even now), I'm not surprised.

[Kolk1]

I didn't realize this was brought up. On a turbo car, you need to evacuate the exhaust from right after the turbo. The design of this turbine housing is actually pretty good with a "chamber" right after the turbine wheel. The main purpose is to get the turbulent exhaust away from the wheel. It's not uncommon to see 3" exhausts off of a relatively small turbo. Getting the turbulence away from the wheel will increase every aspect of the turbo: spool time, max boost capability, etc. Most turbo exhaust manifolds are holding 20+psi, and these I would guess are well over 30psi with the size and design of the manifolds/turbos.

 

Yes I know. Point is, think weakest link. Why put a 3inch down pipe on a 2inch exhaust? That 3inch section will only flow as much as the 2inch section directly after it. My point of doing this, is to make a free flowing 2inch, for under a couple hundred dollars, compared to a stock restrictive 2inch. Obvoiusly a free flowing 3 inch, is better than a free flowing 2inch, but thats not what im comparing.

 

My last car before the SHO I ran almost 30psi on that turbo. It had a full 3inch exhaust, and it was a 4cylinder doing 320whp 384wtq. Which brings me to another thought.

 

Thats a 2.0 4 cylinder, with 3 inch exhaust, if you split our motor since we have dual exhaust, you have a 1.75 with a smaller turbo per 2inch exhaust. Part of me wants to think that if you put a pair of straight 2inch pipes on our SHO, the power output would be minimally less, than a pair of 3inch straight pipes. A straight 2inch free flow pipe, only having to breath for a 1.75liter with a tiny turbo, isnt really that bad.

 

Honestly, if or when I do a full exhaust on my car, it will either be 2.5 or 3, really price will depend on which one I do, because I seriously doubt a DUAL free flow 2.5 exhaust is restricting our tiny ass turbos. This free flow OEM setup, is very temporary, but theres no way, either now or later, im spending 2 grand on a exhaust system.