DIY: Front pads and Rotors

[Kolk1]

Not sure if its on here already, but I like to take pics, and talk about what I did today, so either way here it is. lol

 

I only did my fronts, and I had 0 issues with my old brakes to begin with and the pads still looked new, But I wanted better, So I just had my front rotors turned, but they said they were straight and didnt need it, and basically just deglazed and cleaned the surface.

 

I went with Red Stuff EBC pads. Found them for about $55 plus shipping, BUT It took 2 weeks for them to show up, I ordered them on the 5th, and they showed up yesterday. I will not order again from THMotorsports or something like that, no tracking number, wouldnt return emails, nothing. But anyway...

 

Parts I used to do brake pads:

 

17MM Open end wrench for caliper bolts.

19MM To remove lug nuts.

C Clamp to compress caliper a tiny bit.

Obviously Jack and Jack Stands.

 

Additional to take off Rotors:

T40 Torx bit

18MM socket.

 

Total job took me less than 1 hour.

 

1) Jack up car and remove wheel.

2) At that point look at the backside of the Caliper, you will see 2 bolts, one at the very top, one at the very bottom, Use a 17mm socket or wrench to completely remove these 2 bolts.

Bottom bolt only half way out for photo, normally just remove completely:

 

Top bolt only half way out for photo, normally just remove completely:

 

At this point, the main part of the caliper will come off. NEVER TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE A CALIPER IS REMOVED!! :nono: Dont twist or kink the brake line at all, I just gently set it on top of the rotor for the time being

 

The pads at this point will just slide out of the sides of the remaining bracket:

 

Then I used one of the OLD brake pads, put it back inside of the caliper, and used a C clamp to slightly compress the caliper. Keep the C clamp as centered as possible, and when tightening, go a tiny bit, wait a second, then go a tiny bit more, dont try and use extreme force to push the caliper fluid back into the brake system, if you wait 1 second between 1/4 turns, it will go smoother. I also test very frequently, so Im only compressing the caliper the minimum needed to fit over the new brakes.

 

 

I didnt take a pic of removing the rotors, but each rotor has a T40 screw on the face of the rotor, and 2 18mm bolts on the back. Pretty self explanatory, but heres the tools I used for that part lol

 

I also used anti squeal grease on the back of the new pads.

 

Installation is obviously the reverse of removal. Once everything is reinstalled, and ready to drive, the brakes will need to be pumped a couple times since you had to compress the calipers, this is normal, but once pumped, You shouldnt have to ever pump them again, if so, you might have a fluid leak somewhere. I did a quick little test drive for about 10 minutes, EBC pads do have a break in period, so follow that if you want, or not if you feel you know better than they do. lol

 

Im not saying my way is right or the best way, but thats how I did it, and Ive done a ton of breaks and never had an issue. I take no remorse if you mess up your car. lol

[The Bone]

Your t40 looks a little worn. LOL

So you never remove the 2 bolts that you loosened to get the caliper off?

[Kolk1]

Yes, those 2 bolts had to be completely removed, for pics, I only had them halfway removed so you can tell which ones I was talking about.

 

As part of step 2, I mention that the 17mm bolts had to be removed, but yea due to how I took the pics, its a little confusing. ill see if I can retype that part.

 

Yes, most of my Torx bits have seen better days. Some have been cut and refiled so I could still use them, after they get twisted too bad. lol

 

Edited post, should be more clear now.

[bpd1151]

Added to the Official List of "How-To's" so you can live on in EBOF infamy :hail:

 

Thanks on behalf of all of those who are novices, or have very little experience in brake pad replacement for having performed this DIY. :thumb:

 

Well deserved Rep Points heading your way :yo:

[Crash712us]

Great write up, this will be very useful to our novice member. Rep points added.

[Kolk1]

Aww, thanks guys.

[83racecrew]

This is a nit pick, so no pressure to change anything

 

You say the rotor has 2 18mm bolts that need removing. It is the caliper mounting bracket you are removing so you can get the rotor off (that part where the pads are). The only thing holding the rotor on is the T40 torx bolt. Again, just a nit pick on the name of a part, but you see what I mean, I think?

 

As above, nice write up for 1st time brake changers .

[Kolk1]

This is a nit pick, so no pressure to change anything

 

You say the rotor has 2 18mm bolts that need removing. It is the caliper mounting bracket you are removing so you can get the rotor off (that part where the pads are). The only thing holding the rotor on is the T40 torx bolt. Again, just a nit pick on the name of a part, but you see what I mean, I think?

Yes you are correct, but if only doing pads, you dont need to remove the pad bracket that holds the pads in place. If doing rotors, then you need to remove the pad bracket. lol

 

Basically, the 2 18mm bolts are only holding the pad brackets in place, to get the rotor off, the pad bracket needs to come off. The only thing holding the Rotor in place is the T40 Torx bolt. If only doing pads, you dont touch the 2 18mm bolts.

 

We are just explaining it from different directions. lol

[mjhpadi]

Nice job with the photos. More rep points from me. This is another job I want to tackle but probably not to next summer and I am going to also go with EBC rotors. Besides as I told Mike earlier today, I am out of mod funds, since we got our "Beatermobile" state inspected today. It needed quite a few things to pass inspection and get back in shape. But the old '99 Sable has almost 215K and is still going strong, so I don't mind keep it in shape...just does change the mod schedule for the SHO!:frown:

[casperl878]

great write up and great pics and details, just a quick question and may sound like a stupid question but i was always told and def. suggested when changing pads that u should always change rotors also to blend match mold however u wanna say it together, is that true or is there a reason why u didnt? just asking and still learning as im not a mechanical guy so just asking buddy thats all,

thanks,

anthony

[Kolk1]

I didnt change rotors, but I had them turned, very common practice. Basically the surface of the rotor was scratched off to reveal a fresh surface. Turning is fine, BUT if you turn them too much or too many times, the rotor is now thin and is very prone to warping.

 

I dont know what the specs are on the SHO rotors, but on most cars they consider turning them once, just fine. Then replace the 2nd time to be safe. My rotors werent warped, so not much metal had to be taken off to be flattened back out. So they basically just de-glazed the rotors, and barley took any metal off at all.

 

I wont suggest it, But I have put cheap sets of pads on a beater car without doing new rotors or having them turned at all, and everything still worked out fine. But normally the wear marks on the rotors dont match new pads obviously, and can cause premature wear, and possibly even worse breaking due to less contact patch of the pad to rotor.