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30k service prices?


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Not quite at 30K, but get'n close.

 

Dealer recommended the following:

 

Trans Power Flush/Fill (@ $169.99)

Fuel Inection Cleaning Service (@ $139.99)

Upper Throttle Body/Intake Cleaning Service (also @ $139.99)

 

IDK what my "normal" oil changes are, as all of my oil changes have been paid for thus far by the dealer.

 

I always have asked for FULL SYNTHETIC and if I recall correctly, I think the charge is customarily $59.99, not entirely positive on that one though.

 

I wasn't flip'n for all of the above at once, therefore, I recently just had the Trans Service completed only. Again, not quite at 30K, but close.

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Do the FI cleaning service and TB/Intake cleaning yourself for about $50 or less with the 3M fuel injection kit. Doesn't take much of your time and saves a good amount of coin.

 

The trans flush/fill is about the only thing on the list I'll probably have them go ahead and do since it's a bit of a pain to do that yourself and they have the equipment and needed fluids right there and can do it pretty quickly.

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Make them change the trans filter to it is not part of the flush.

If you run a good grade of gas than cleaning the intake system isn't necessary. If you run cheap gas than consider it. I use Chevron in mine and only 91 octane. Change the plugs to dont leave them in more than 30,000 miles. You can do that yourself.

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A week or so ago... at 33,500 mi, I started experiencing an infrequent miss in my engine. After a day or so, I got a check engine light which showed a mis-fire in the #6 cylinder. This is the right (drivers side) front plug, next to the air filter. I pulled the plug and checked it. Looked great, but had a gap that was slightly greater than spec (.035). Changed it out for the new # plug, (mine were the old 2010 #) and now runs perfect again, in a 30 mile run to the airport. Tomorrow, I am going to clean engine with 3M treatment and replace all of the plugs.

 

Also have a Milwaukee lighted scope camera that I pointed down plug hole. Too large to actually get inside combustion chamber (goes to top of plug threads - 1" out), but piston top looked good. Was black, but the cutouts for the valves were very visible. Didn't look to be overloaded with carbon. Before I had it, removed the TB and visually checked out Intake Manifold, which was very clean at 15,000 mi. May do this again and check valve tops as runners appear to be large enough for camera end (3/4").

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A week or so ago... at 33,500 mi, I started experiencing an infrequent miss in my engine. After a day or so, I got a check engine light which showed a mis-fire in the #6 cylinder. This is the right (drivers side) front plug, next to the air filter. I pulled the plug and checked it. Looked great, but had a gap that was slightly greater than spec (.035). Changed it out for the new # plug, (mine were the old 2010 #) and now runs perfect again, in a 30 mile run to the airport. Tomorrow, I am going to clean engine with 3M treatment and replace all of the plugs.

 

Also have a Milwaukee lighted scope camera that I pointed down plug hole. Too large to actually get inside combustion chamber (goes to top of plug threads - 1" out), but piston top looked good. Was black, but the cutouts for the valves were very visible. Didn't look to be overloaded with carbon. Before I had it, removed the TB and visually checked out Intake Manifold, which was very clean at 15,000 mi. May do this again and check valve tops as runners appear to be large enough for camera end (3/4").

 

Your W/M should be keeping everything nice and clean!

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Make them change the trans filter to it is not part of the flush.

If you run a good grade of gas than cleaning the intake system isn't necessary. If you run cheap gas than consider it. I use Chevron in mine and only 91 octane. Change the plugs to dont leave them in more than 30,000 miles. You can do that yourself.

 

Hey Bone, I believe I read some where that our trans filters our non service able. Not unusual these days to see that, fords has been building transmissions like this for over 20yrs. And as to clean fuel and gas treatment for a clean intake system and combustion chamber, is true for most cars. However DI motors are notoriously dirty. And require a different maintenance of the fuel intake system. Due to the fact no fuel passes over the valves in a DI motor.

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Correct on both Crash.

 

I'll dig around for the info on the lack of trans filter and as far as the fuel service.....

 

It should be done regardless of the grade of fuel used as the DI setup in our rides our definitely notorious for excessive carbon build up.

 

***This post sent from my DROID3 using the 'Tapatalk' App***

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I forgot about these motors being DI motors. Since that is the case and fuel is no longer squirted above the valves than there should be no reason to clean the intake side of the motor. If you have a CAI than maybe the MAF may need to be cleaned because of the oil in the filter. If that is the case than use less oil on the filter next time.

Good information on the trans filter. I had no idea that they did away with the filter change.

Here is what I found out about injectors.

Keeping Injectors Clean

 

The best way to minimize or eliminate the need for injector cleaning is to use a quality brand of gasoline that contains sufficient detergent to prevent varnish buildup. Most brand name gasolines today have enough detergent to do this. As a rule, premium grades usually contain a somewhat higher concentration of cleaners.

 

You can also use fuel tank additives to keep your injectors clean. Such products really aren't necessary if you're using quality gasoline. But if you're buying the cheapest gas you can find, using an additive might be good insurance.

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I forgot about these motors being DI motors. Since that is the case and fuel is no longer squirted above the valves than there should be no reason to clean the intake side of the motor. If you have a CAI than maybe the MAF may need to be cleaned because of the oil in the filter. If that is the case than use less oil on the filter next time.

Good information on the trans filter. I had no idea that they did away with the filter change.

Here is what I found out about injectors.

Keeping Injectors Clean

 

The best way to minimize or eliminate the need for injector cleaning is to use a quality brand of gasoline that contains sufficient detergent to prevent varnish buildup. Most brand name gasolines today have enough detergent to do this. As a rule, premium grades usually contain a somewhat higher concentration of cleaners.

 

You can also use fuel tank additives to keep your injectors clean. Such products really aren't necessary if you're using quality gasoline. But if you're buying the cheapest gas you can find, using an additive might be good insurance.

 

Going to depend on how good the Ford PCV and catch-can is. I haven't pulled the TB off mine to look in the intake manifold, so I don't know how much oil is ending up in the intake manifold... but other manufactures have had issues with valves getting gunked up on their DI motors due to the fact no gas is going over the valves to keep them clean, most notably Audi.

 

Also my 2010 V6 Camaro was a DI motor... And the thing sucked oil! From the Camaro:

 

pcv_1.jpg

 

IMG_1090.JPG

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There is oil in there, and this is the real culprit of the dirty intake system. The lack of fuel passing over the valve contributes valves getting sludged up. As where a non DI motor valve are continually wash my fuel. But even non DI motors the intake get sludged up too. And while most people don't worry about these things, to keep your performance levels at there peak it's a necessity.

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I pulled my TB today when I did the 3M - 3 step intake cleaning.

 

The Intake was VERY clean, with very little carbon on a paper towel I used to rub inside. I was rubbing past where the oil breather hose enters, so the Ford Catch Can that is attached to the back valve cover seems to be working well.

 

NOTE: I have aftermarket catch cans on my 2 G8's, and I am well aware of how important they are, and how much oil film gets into the intake manifold without them.

 

There was a smalll amount of oil film on the bottom of the TB which I easily wiped out with a small section of paper towel. I did this previously at around 15K, so in another 16,000 mi, there was not much carbon build up. While I have a Milwaukee lighted camera probe, it is too large to get down in runners where top of valves would be visible.

 

When I sprayed the 2 cans of Intake & TB cleaner, I got no smoke with the long spraying can, and about 3 seconds of smoke with the TB cleaner, after I had emptied the can and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Shut off engine, and then re-started, with NO additional smoke.

 

While I plan on having a shop I use, do their BG treatment when I get back to IA this summer, I really don't think my engine was very dirty. Plugs looked pretty good. Of course I do spray W/M every time boost goes over 8 PSI... The plug (# 6 Cyl) that was occasionally stumbling/misfiring at low RPM, was showing a gap that was noticeably larger than .035, which may have been the cause of the misfire. NO cracked porcelain or anything else visibly wrong. Nice light brown color too.

 

With the new plugs (latest #), the idle is definitely smoother, than it has been for some time, maybe ever....

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On boosted engines if the gap gets to big than the Turbo will blow out the spark. sounds silly but it is true. When I put the smaller pulley on my 500 I had to tighten the gap on the plugs for that very reason.

As for the best plug E3's are supposed to be good I don't run them myself so that's not a recommendation. I do know that platinum plugs are not necessary since you should change them once a year. I know they last 100,000 miles but they cheaper than a oil change and keeps them in top shape. I never thought about the blow by from the PVC you would think by now they could come up with another design. I guess I will get a catch can for my car

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The plugs for our EB engines as recommended by Ford are: MOTORCRAFT #SP528. This is a double platinum with .035 gap. The gap is set at the factory and should NOT be adjusted. Just check them, as well as the ones that come out. Note that this part number and plug choice was changed during the latter part of the 2010 build. It is the current recommendation for the 2010 EB, and the only recommendation for the 2011 EB in Flex & SHO. The plugs I removed were a different number. Seems there were some infrequent issues with those. Plugs are available from Rock Auto for around $4.00 each. Amazon wants over $6. ea.

 

As for a Catch Can, the EB 3.5 V-6 comes with one on the rear valve cover (by firewall). It catches the blow by thru a filter, and is designed with an overflow that runs back into the engine. That way you don't have to manually empty it, like I do on the ones I installed on my G8's.

 

I also ordered a new viewing scope that has a 5.5 mm camera head. The one on my Milwaukee scope is almost 3 times that size. With it, I should be able to check the intake runners and hopefully the intake valve stems/tops.

 

My issue with the misfire, was extended periods of idle in gear at stoplights. Seemed to occur under 1,500 RPM. Engine run fine at all RPM's above that. That plug (#6) definitely had a larger gap than the .035. Am assuming that somehow the gap increased... though have no idea how. Suppose the electrode could have slowly gotten smaller, increasing the gap over 33,500 mi.

 

Anyway, after new plugs and 3M cleaning, it idles and runs great!

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  • 3 weeks later...

New plugs in from Rock Auto! Hopefully this afternoon I can get to changing them and putting the Airaid back in (I miss the "extra noises" it provided). Is changing the plugs pretty self explanatory or easy? I do have a torque wrench should I need to use it. Time to let Google be my friend.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
.

 

I also ordered a new viewing scope that has a 5.5 mm camera head. The one on my Milwaukee scope is almost 3 times that size. With it, I should be able to check the intake runners and hopefully the intake valve stems/tops.

 

 

Hey Bob, have you had a chance to check the valves with the new camera?

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

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