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Oily MAP Sensor - Possible bad turbo?


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I am trying to hunt down a power issue and faulty MAP sensor readings would explain a lot. Can anyone tell me if these photos look to have too much oil (if any is even supposed to be there) on the MAP sensor? If so, which and where are the intake lines that I can inspect for excessive oil as well to confirm that I have a possible bad turbo?

 

The first picture is a little blurry but you can see that there is oil on my finger from just touching the cage around the sensor itself, some has already been rubbed in a little bit.

 

The second picture is a nice big picture showing how gunked up the MAP sensor is.

 

Thanks,

Blaine

 

MAP-Sensor1.JPG

MAP-Sensor2.JPG

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I didn't have ANY residual oil on my OEM, 2 bar MAP sensor when I swapped it out last week for the 3 bar.

 

Not sure why yours has any oil on it all. Hopefully someone with any knowledge on the issue will pipe up with an explanation for 'ya.

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

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You need to take off the inlet hose from the intercooler to the TB (just move it to the side) and see how much oil there is at that point. There should be NONE, as the oil breather hose goes in just inside the TB. You should be able to open the TB with your fingers and shine a light inside also to check as to how much oil residue you have at that point.. I have had my MAPv sensors out several times, changing them from 2-3 bar and back, and there is NEVER any oil on them.

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Bob, do I look back in the intake hose or in the throttle body for oil? Also, if I do find oil what would your diagnosis be? If it is a faulty turbo and there is excessive oil all through the intake manifold, is it imperative that I get the dealership to clean the intake out when they replace the faulty hardware (turbo and probably gunked up MAP sensor)? Anything else I may be missing/overlooking?

 

Just to let everyone know, I have a 2010 SHO non-PP. Just under 33K miles on it. I had a big issue starting at 11K with the ever elusive knock-sensor wire which took the dealership roughly 10K miles to pinpoint (granted the problems did start off slow and got worst as the wire chaffed more and more against the engine block). The knock-sensor wire issue was all wrapped up around 20K miles but it just has never been right since. I haven't noticed any excessive oil burning going on but at the same time I haven't been paying a lot of attention to it either. This issue has been around for at least 12K miles since the end of the knock-sensor issue. I will say I do remember the shop foreman at the dealership saying he did replace the MAP sensor during that knock-sensor fiasco because he saw a few funky readings from it. I have no idea if it had oil on it at the time or not but the knock-sensor issues would have easily overshadowed this one because the symptoms were about 10x worse than what I have now. Plugs have been changed, transmission TSB a few weeks ago, all the latest PCM update went on with the transmission TSB.

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Bob, do I look back in the intake hose or in the throttle body for oil? Also, if I do find oil what would your diagnosis be? If it is a faulty turbo and there is excessive oil all through the intake manifold, is it imperative that I get the dealership to clean the intake out when they replace the faulty hardware (turbo and probably gunked up MAP sensor)? Anything else I may be missing/overlooking?

 

Just to let everyone know, I have a 2010 SHO non-PP. Just under 33K miles on it. I had a big issue starting at 11K with the ever elusive knock-sensor wire which took the dealership roughly 10K miles to pinpoint (granted the problems did start off slow and got worst as the wire chaffed more and more against the engine block). The knock-sensor wire issue was all wrapped up around 20K miles but it just has never been right since. I haven't noticed any excessive oil burning going on but at the same time I haven't been paying a lot of attention to it either. This issue has been around for at least 12K miles since the end of the knock-sensor issue. I will say I do remember the shop foreman at the dealership saying he did replace the MAP sensor during that knock-sensor fiasco because he saw a few funky readings from it. I have no idea if it had oil on it at the time or not but the knock-sensor issues would have easily overshadowed this one because the symptoms were about 10x worse than what I have now. Plugs have been changed, transmission TSB a few weeks ago, all the latest PCM update went on with the transmission TSB.

 

If in fact you have oil in your intake tube due to something like a faulty turbo, you are also going to have oil coating the inside of your intercooler... and quite possibly you could have quite a bit in there... so you going to have to make sure that gets cleaned out some how also...

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Okay, so I woke up this morning eager to get a good look inside my intake pipe.

 

Not the best pictures but here's of my Intake Pipe. There was a nice film of oil covering the entire inside of the pipe that I could see but it did seem to have puddled a bit in the bottom of the pipe (gotta love gravity). I didn't include the picture because it was poor quality but there was oil on the sensor just inside of this pipe.

IntakePipe.JPG

 

Oil wiped from Intake Pipe. You can really get an idea of how much oil may be collected in my intake, this was only a small swab of the intake pipe (I didn't want to clean it all away so that the dealership would say something stupid like "that's normal".

OilFromIntakePipe.JPG

 

BOV. You can see the oil puddled on the bottom of the BOV pipe in the second picture and get a better feel of what the intake pipe looked like.

BOV1.JPG

BOV2.JPG

 

Oil swab from BOV pipe.

OilfromBOV.JPG

 

Now the fun stuff. What all components do I need to consider having thoroughly cleaned and/or replaced if it is indeed coming from one of the turbos (which at this point I'm assuming so)?

Turbo - replace

Intake pipe - thoroughly cleaned or replaced

BOV - replace?

All sensors from turbo to manifold - replace

Intake manifold - thoroughly cleaned

Throttle body - thoroughly cleaned

Intercooler - can it be cleaned or does it have to be replaced?

Spark Plugs - You think these may be gunked a bit with oil?

Anything else I'm missing here guys?

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Brian,

 

I will be taking it in for warranty, but the Ford dealers here aren't the brightest in my opinion. I just feel like I have to tell them everything that should be done, otherwise all they will do is the bare minimum. I guess that is what you get when they are only getting reimbursed at a smaller rate from Ford than if I was paying out of pocket for it myself. For example, I recently had the brake TSB done. Unless the TSB has changed, it calls for new brackets, rotors and pads. They replaced the brackets, machined the rotors and used the same pads. Never-the-less I still have a brake sensation, it's not a grunting feel/noise anymore but more of a ripple feel/sound.

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Understandable, but you may have something 'big' going on here. I would advise working direct with the serivce manager and insisting he call the field engineering rep for his dealership if your not getting much help him. I believe Ford did have a turbo issue early on with some 2010-11's.

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Yikes!

 

Those pictures are downright scary..... more so to think of wth is going elsewhere where you can't readily see.....

 

Goodness. I agree with Brian on this one, probably should be having your service mgr contact an FMC field rep on this one, I'd be interested to hear wth happened.

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That definitely isn't normal. It has to be caused by turbo(s) as there is no other place that oil can get into the piping from the intercooler to the TB. Scrming is correct, in that the intercooler will need to be flushed, as well as everything from defective turbo(s) forward to the cylinder head, as no fuel or cleaner normally enters this area.

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Are you kidding!?!?! I am thrilled that I have found the problem. Here I am at 33,000 miles and I have been battling engine issues for a little over a year (since 11,000 miles)!!! Solved the 1st issue at about 20,000K miles but 1 still lurked in the shadows until now. I am so stoked about finally getting them put to bed and getting my SHO back. Now I can get that tune that I've been dreaming of.

 

 

Sorry to see that you have discovered a problem. Hopefully it will be corrected under warranty. Please keep us updated to progress on it.
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So, I've had it in since Monday. My turbo was leaking, externally as well as internally. It was the rear turbo (on the passenger side of the car). Interestingly, not only was the exit side of the turbo pipe saturated with oil but so was the intake side of the pipe. It's like the oil was leaking and flowing backwards a bit.

 

The tech thought at first that maybe some of the oil was being released via the BOV and some of that gets dumped back back upstram in the intake pipe but that was not happening due to the lack of oil in the PVC system.

 

Here's a pic of my leaky turbo (still installed on the car)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]306[/ATTACH]

 

I should have my car back sometime next week, I'll post a follow up.

post-288-142532286453_thumb.jpg

post-288-142532286453_thumb.jpg

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So, I got the car back today and get it out and the road. What do you think the first thing I did was? Put the hammer down. And what do you know, I get a loud rushing of air coming from under my hood. I picked it up right at closing so I drove home, popped the hood and let it cool. Start looking at the intake hosing and find a clamp completely jiggly loose. Tightened that baby back down and what do you think I did? Put the hammer down. What a difference! Still some small residual symptoms but I'm fairly certain that they didn't replace the sensors, I popped the intake hose off and it looked like it had been wiped out but not flushed or anything. Looked at the MAP sensor and looked like it may have some oil on it still. Going to pick up some MAP sensor cleaner tomorrow and hose it down. Does anyone know what type of cleaner I should use on the other sensor just before the throttle body? That one probably needs a good clean too. Anyone think I should get BG Intake clean performed to rid all those pipe of oil? Is it safe to have that stuff run through your intake/turbo/intercooler?

 

I'll look at all the paperwork tomorrow and see if it listed how many hours for the swap as well as all the costs. I know the total on the bill was $707.

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If they change out the turbo and oil lines' date=' ask them how many hours it takes.[/quote']

 

It wasn't on the paperwork Bob but I have to take it back in because I picked it up and the steering wheel is cocked about 10 degrees to the left. I'll ask the tech when I go back in later this week.

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