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Upgrading 2012 SHO standard 7 speaker (non-Sony) audio--need help/information


jim1274

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I want to do a modest upgrade to my 2012 base level non-Sony 7 speaker system. I've searched all the SHO and general Taurus forums (plus a few general car audio forums) and have come up empty. SOMEBODY must have gone down this upgrade path already for a base level sound system???

 

Before I lay out my ideas for the upgrade, have a few questions that maybe you audio experts can help with:

 

Does anyone have or know where to find a schematic diagram for this system? Found one for the Sony, but not the base system.

 

Anybody know if this system has amplification in the head unit or uses an outboard amp between head and speaker? Any idea on specs under either scenario?

 

Are the front door speakers single driver mid-bass type units? (I suspect as much since there are tweeters in the pillars) Or did they drop a coax in even though there are separate tweeters? Are they just a single cone 6 by 8 or did Ford use a 5-6" round component type speaker instead for this? Anybody seen them to assess the apparent quality? Just cheap paper or something better? Are they 4 or 8 ohm speakers? Efficiency rating? Is there a low pass filter on the door speakers given presence of the tweeters?

 

I am assuming the rear door speakers are 6 by 8 coaxials, but that is just a guess--maybe they are same speakers as in front doors even though rears lack the compliment of a separate tweeter?

 

Here is what I am thinking for a possible upgrade path:

 

The easiest and cheapest route is to upgrade the 6 by 8's in all 4 doors, assuming that is what is actually in there. But will that make much of a difference if the stock speakers are something better than a cheap POS? I trolled around and there several well regarded 6 by 8 speaker coaxials for about 75 bucks or so street price--I was thinking these would be good choice: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=112900 Or would I be better off going to a 5-6" round component type speaker using an adapter ring?

 

Next step, or maybe the first step and just keep all 7 factory speakers, is a subwoofer. While better door speakers may(?) give me a little better low-end performance, a sub is probably a must to get a decent sound upgrade. I'm just looking for some modest fill-in for the lower octaves, not a physically big and expensive custom sub. I really want to keep a 100% stock appearance, so the JL Audio Stealthbox is one option, but a pretty expensive one. I was thinking of maybe using a compact low profile 8" powered sub hidden somewhere in the passenger compartment--anybody done a compact "hidden" sub install like this?? Any ideas or suggestions on a place to "hide" something like this? Something similar to this for an example: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html?tp=114 I put a similar Blaupunkt unit (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mgJ0aDxUBjz/p_023THB200A/Blaupunkt-THb-200A.html?tab=review#customer-reviews-tab) under the seat in my Silverado and it did a serviceable job. (this is the current version of the Blaupunkt I had, but does not seem to be widely distributed in the US now: http://www.blaupunkt.de/index.php?id=2032&tx_ddfproducts2_pi1[view]=1919&no_cache=1&L=1) Other suggestions for a "stealth" sub install?

 

I'd like to keep this under 1000 bucks including professional install if possible, which means maybe 600 bucks worth of parts and allow about 400 for the custom install work. That's the price of a Sony audio option I recall--can I even approach that performance level for 1000 bucks aftermarket?

 

ANY suggestions or help on any front for this project would be MUCH appreciated.

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The general consensus seems to be there are few changes between the 2011 and the 2012. If that's accurate, I can hook you up with the audio system diagrams for the 2011. I have an early 2012 service manual but I don't think the 2012 Taurus audio system is in it, primarily the Focus and Mustang if I recall correctly.

 

I suspect the rear door speakers are full range cones, not components.

 

From my experiences, I wouldn't count on aftermarket 6x8 speakers giving you better low end volume. They will likely be cleaner and have better mids and high, but probably not a noticeable improvement in bass volume. Generally though upgrading the main drivers in a car from factory will be the best bang for the buck, and something you should consider prior to adding subwoofers.

 

Most of the aftermarket speakers sold to fit the Ford and Mazda 6x8 openings actually use a 5x7 cone. Going with a 6 inch round woofer or mid-bass driver, or a component plate speaker with a round cone will probably provide better sound than a 5x7 cone. In my Aviator with the premium sound, and my Mountaineer before that, the 6x8 openings in the doors actually had a factory Ford component speaker assembly with a round woofer and a separate tweeter mounted in a housing that fit the 6x8 opening in the doors.

 

If you're really just looking for a bit more bass volume, you could add 6x8 (or are they 6x9) woofers in the rear package tray since I've heard the holes are there but not populated with the base audio system. This would likely get you the low end you seek, and if you want to pump it up a bit more, get a couple of bass shakers and mount them under the front seats. It's amazing how much louder the system will seem when you physically feel it.

 

-Rod

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The general consensus seems to be there are few changes between the 2011 and the 2012. If that's accurate, I can hook you up with the audio system diagrams for the 2011. I have an early 2012 service manual but I don't think the 2012 Taurus audio system is in it, primarily the Focus and Mustang if I recall correctly.

 

I suspect the rear door speakers are full range cones, not components.

 

From my experiences, I wouldn't count on aftermarket 6x8 speakers giving you better low end volume. They will likely be cleaner and have better mids and high, but probably not a noticeable improvement in bass volume. Generally though upgrading the main drivers in a car from factory will be the best bang for the buck, and something you should consider prior to adding subwoofers.

 

Most of the aftermarket speakers sold to fit the Ford and Mazda 6x8 openings actually use a 5x7 cone. Going with a 6 inch round woofer or mid-bass driver, or a component plate speaker with a round cone will probably provide better sound than a 5x7 cone. In my Aviator with the premium sound, and my Mountaineer before that, the 6x8 openings in the doors actually had a factory Ford component speaker assembly with a round woofer and a separate tweeter mounted in a housing that fit the 6x8 opening in the doors.

 

If you're really just looking for a bit more bass volume, you could add 6x8 (or are they 6x9) woofers in the rear package tray since I've heard the holes are there but not populated with the base audio system. This would likely get you the low end you seek, and if you want to pump it up a bit more, get a couple of bass shakers and mount them under the front seats. It's amazing how much louder the system will seem when you physically feel it.

 

-Rod

 

Thanks, Rod, and a diagram would be helpful. Your comments were helpful and appreciated. I just got back from the local pro car custom audio shop and got some suggestions and options from them. One option was adding 6 by 9 coaxial or triaxials in the rear deck powered by a separate 2 channel amp and leave rest of the system unchanged. The next upgrade step was replace the door speakers. Next step would be to eliminate the head unit amplification duties and run a more powerful quality outboard amp for all the speakers. The next step was nix the rear deck 6 by 9 speaker addition and outboard amp addition, and instead add the JL Audio Stealthbox and their XD700/5 amp to power the whole system (which includes upgraded door speakers from prior step).

 

I have spent some time listening carefully to the factory system on a variety of source material, and the problem is not so much the level and depth of the low end (it is decent extension but very sloppy/buzzy when driven hard), but rather the distortion of any music that has significant low level material--the bass becomes very muddy and distorted which completely ruins the listening experience. That said, it seems that ANY solution either has to include a reproduction chain that eliminates that distortion even at modest volume. That means either getting door drivers/amplification that has low distortion at moderate high spl levels, or keeping the speakers from "seeing" the low frequency material (the JL amp does that nicely with the high pass filter on the satellite amp channels)

 

The full system upgrade is well north of $2000, and I am wondering where the sweet spot is on the diminishing returns scale? They are a dealer for JL and sell a LOT of Stealthbox units, but have yet to put one in a Taurus. I really wanted to keep this under a grand, but am wondering if that is possible and have a really good sounding system. I'd call the current OEM system OK at best. The Harmon Kardon in the wife's SRT8 completely spoiled and ruined me.....

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The general consensus seems to be there are few changes between the 2011 and the 2012. If that's accurate' date=' I can hook you up with the audio system diagrams for the 2011. I have an early 2012 service manual but I don't think the 2012 Taurus audio system is in it, primarily the Focus and Mustang if I recall correctly-Rod[/quote']

 

Say, Rod, do you think the diagram will show any detail on the amp/channel configuration? Specifically, I am trying to verify how the center is connected/amplified. When I stopped at the local stereo shop today, they were a little baffled on how the factory head unit is configured. Is this just a 4 channel amp or is there a fifth discreet center channel? They assumed it was just a 4 channel and the center is a L+R, but that does matter if I go with an outboard amp for the speakers.

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The full system upgrade is well north of $2000, and I am wondering where the sweet spot is on the diminishing returns scale? They are a dealer for JL and sell a LOT of Stealthbox units, but have yet to put one in a Taurus. I really wanted to keep this under a grand, but am wondering if that is possible and have a really good sounding system. I'd call the current OEM system OK at best. The Harmon Kardon in the wife's SRT8 completely spoiled and ruined me.....

 

I have mulled over the goals of this project and decided to aim higher. After talking with the local shop pro, a target budget of $2000 range is probably more in line with making a significant sound upgrade. At this point, I am still sticking to my requirement of keeping an OEM look for this project, especially inside the cabin. My benchmark for the sound is getting in the same league as the Harman Kardon rig in the wife's SRT8. That may not be even possible given my options in terms of available OEM speaker placement locations? The SHO has 7 speaker locations (9 if you count the rear deck, but that is only useful for subs which is now most likely going to be a stealthbox) vs. 18 in the HK set-up--big disadvantage to the SHO in terms of soundstange and imaging?

 

Just wanted to let anyone who is following or commenting on my project that this is going to the next level. My goal still is to get the best bang for my buck--there is a point of diminishing returns--I just hope that is not north of the $2K point!

 

At some point, it might be useful to get some suggestions from the hard core mobile audio guys on the dedicated car audio forums. I trolled around a number of them to see if anyone had attacked a latest gen Taurus custom install--nothing similar to my project found yet. I did note that there is a lot of specialty gear out there beyond the big names, especially in speakers. If any of you audio guys here on the forum have any comments on experiences with specialty car audio forums, I'd love to hear them.

 

This is turning into an interesting project--did not take long to get past the first thought of just replacing the door speakers with something better stage!!!

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I can only think of like 3 SHO owners who have performed audio upgrades.....

 

But I think all had the Sony system to begin with.

 

Oughta be interesting to see what you end up roll'n with.....

 

Thanks for keep the community updated. Please continue doing so.

 

Look'n forward to the final outcome :thumb:

 

Mike :yo:

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If I had the Sony option, probably would not be doing this. I sure hope this ends up sounding as good or better than the Sony given the cost will be ultimately north of two times the price of the Sony. There is some wild audio stuff out there these days--$2K is entry level to some hard core types from looking at what others are doing.

 

I've been an audio guy my whole life--this one is a fun one for me. This thread will hopefully be useful for others going down the upgrade path in the future--definitely going to be more than just replace some speakers kind of thing.

 

Time to go back to looking at DSP unit options for system tuning...this project is getting expensive....

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The SHO has 7 speaker locations (9 if you count the rear deck, but that is only useful for subs which is now most likely going to be a stealthbox) vs. 18 in the HK set-up--big disadvantage to the SHO in terms of soundstange and imaging?

 

 

I made an incorrect statement above--there is an additional speaker position--rear surround. I took another look at the Ford Sony diagram sheet (http://media.ford.com/images/10031/Sony_Taurus.pdf)--the same mounting position cutout most likely is there on my rear deck but just not populated with a speaker? This actually may be important--a rear fill may be better up high and centered than counting on just the rear doors down low to do it.

 

In theory, it would seem very feasible to surpass the Sony OEM performance, I am thinking. I have all the same speaker locations to work with, the Stealthbox is going to outperform the Sony rear deck dual 6 by 9 woofer config, my upgraded drivers should surpass the OEM drivers, and a high end 700w amp like the JL I am looking at surely will at least equal the Sony 380w? If I add DSP to the mix, that gives me the advantage of a fine-tune of the sound beyond what is available via the Sony head unit capabilities?

 

I probably need to take a close look at upgrading the front center and door pillar tweeters too as part of the mix. The tweeters seem a little bright to me, but not sure if that is just an EQ thing. Definitely gonna take a hard look at the DSP options out there. Since Ford/Sony did the Sony system as an overall system design, they probably did some cabin EQ adjustment with different speakers, crossover points, etc. I may need some additional control beyond a variable crossover point to get this right.

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Say' date=' Rod, do you think the diagram will show any detail on the amp/channel configuration? Specifically, I am trying to verify how the center is connected/amplified. When I stopped at the local stereo shop today, they were a little baffled on how the factory head unit is configured. Is this just a 4 channel amp or is there a fifth discreet center channel? They assumed it was just a 4 channel and the center is a L+R, but that does matter if I go with an outboard amp for the speakers.[/quote']

 

In the diagram for the 2011, the instrument panel speaker is a separate channel from the audio amplifier. At the amplifier it is pins 1 and 2 of connector C4208B, Green wire is + and Gray/Yellow wire is -. With the premium sound the front tweeters are just paralleled from the door speakers. With the Sony system the tweeters have a separate output from the audio DSP module, as do the instrument panel and parcel shelf center channel speakers.

 

-Rod

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In the diagram for the 2011, the instrument panel speaker is a separate channel from the audio amplifier. At the amplifier it is pins 1 and 2 of connector C4208B, Green wire is + and Gray/Yellow wire is -. With the premium sound the front tweeters are just paralleled from the door speakers. With the Sony system the tweeters have a separate output from the audio DSP module, as do the instrument panel and parcel shelf center channel speakers.

 

-Rod

 

Thanks, Rod--that is helpful and relevant. So it sounds like my factory head unit is actually a 5 channel amp--maybe the center is just some type of internal summing L+R circuit? So that appears to mean I need at least one extra external amp channel, or leave that channel just running off the head unit. Odd that there is a separate center channel but no level control in the sound settings for the center. I better reference the manual and physically double check the options on the head unit to make sure no menu was overlooked.

 

I am still thinking a rear center channel addition is a good idea, so maybe I need even another discreet outboard amplified channel to give me level control for balance front to rear on the centers. Or two more channels beyond that if I want control of the level (and crossover frequency) between the front door and pillar speakers.

 

I can see how these custom jobs can get complicated...and expensive....

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Thanks, Rod--that is helpful and relevant. So it sounds like my factory head unit is actually a 5 channel amp--maybe the center is just some type of internal summing L+R circuit? So that appears to mean I need at least one extra external amp channel, or leave that channel just running off the head unit. Odd that there is a separate center channel but no level control in the sound settings for the center. I better reference the manual and physically double check the options on the head unit to make sure no menu was overlooked.

 

I am still thinking a rear center channel addition is a good idea, so maybe I need even another discreet outboard amplified channel to give me level control for balance front to rear on the centers. Or two more channels beyond that if I want control of the level (and crossover frequency) between the front door and pillar speakers.

 

I can see how these custom jobs can get complicated...and expensive....

 

I just checked all the sound menu option settings--there is in fact no direct control of the center channel balance. What I observed is that as one pans left and right, the center goes up and down in volume. At pan set dead center, the center channel is at max volume. As you pan left and right, center volume reduces but not a lot. It looks like I am going to need 5 + 1 (sub) amplification channels to do this right. Since I am leaning heavily towards adding a rear center channel, I am thinking 6 + 1 is probably the way to go, plus there is no 5 + 1 amp that I could find.

 

So, for now, I'll use these two amps as my provisional spec:

 

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd600-6-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98262

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd300-1-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98266

 

JL is the only widely distributed mainstream brand in the better quality offerings with a 6 channel unit. I did see a few other more esoteric brands that make 6 channel amps and mentioned on the specialty forums, but JL is my working spec until I see something else out there that has some feature or value beyond the JL's.

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I'm not sure what all audio cues might come from that center channel in the base audio system. I believe (and someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that the navigation voice and some of the other sounds come from the center instrument panel speaker on the Sony/Navigation audio system. There is also a DSP setting with the Sony system for surround sound which likely makes use of the front and rear center channels.

 

-Rod

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I'm not sure what all audio cues might come from that center channel in the base audio system. I believe (and someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that the navigation voice and some of the other sounds come from the center instrument panel speaker on the Sony/Navigation audio system. There is also a DSP setting with the Sony system for surround sound which likely makes use of the front and rear center channels.

 

-Rod

 

While the Sony makes different use of the front and rear center channels due to the more sophisticated DSP and such, the (front) center in my base system is a pretty critical driver. I'm thinking that is acting as a midrange driver to balance the frequency spectrum and fill for the poor positioning of the mid-bass in the door--down low by the ground way off axis is certainly not where one would put a speaker for optimal sound it would seem.

 

If that center is just a cheap paper cone or some such, I think it is going to have to be upgraded too. Is that center channel grill difficult to remove? I really wanted to avoid pulling things apart for inspection unless it is a real simple straightforward job.

 

I wonder if there is improvement to be had in upgrading the tweeters? Are those hard to get at?

 

I have a question on your Sony rigs--what does the rear center look like? I mean, is it just a small grill dead center toward the front of the rear shelf? I can probably dig around and find a pic on the Ford site. My "stealth" approach and desire to maintain OEM look would not be violated if I put a speaker and OEM grill in where probably 90% of SHO's have them. I'd need to figure out how to get a L+R rear channel signal and have it tied to the front to rear balance control. I just realized that just running in parallel with the front center is not an option--that would have it doing the opposite on front to rear balance--would get louder relative to rear door speakers as I panned to the front in the head unit.

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In the diagram for the 2011, the instrument panel speaker is a separate channel from the audio amplifier. At the amplifier it is pins 1 and 2 of connector C4208B, Green wire is + and Gray/Yellow wire is -. With the premium sound the front tweeters are just paralleled from the door speakers. With the Sony system the tweeters have a separate output from the audio DSP module, as do the instrument panel and parcel shelf center channel speakers.

 

-Rod

 

Rod, just so I understand this correctly, this C4208B as deployed on my head unit has a total of 10 wires coming out, the 2 center you reference plus 8 for the 4 door speakers? Not really concerned with the specific pin out assignments at this point, just trying to figure out what I need for my OEM integration. It would seem that I need to capture and process 5 discrete amp channels from the HU.

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That center channel cover just pops off..use a plastic pry tool. Super easy

 

Bingo! Thanks! Piece of the puzzle solved.

 

Well, it is just a paper cone driver, but does seem to have a decent speaker surround suspension made out of some type of rubber like composite material. Is there ANY good speaker out there in this era that uses a paper cone? I'm thinking this is a no-brainer upgrade, especially since it is so easy to get to. You Sony guys have a poly driver center dash in that system?

 

I am guessing getting at the door pillar speakers is not "super easy".....

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Well, it is just a paper cone driver, but does seem to have a decent speaker surround suspension made out of some type of rubber like composite material. Is there ANY good speaker out there in this era that uses a paper cone? I'm thinking this is a no-brainer upgrade, especially since it is so easy to get to.

 

 

Getting that cover off was the first easy thing on this project...the 3.5" replacement option may not be...

 

I just checked sonic electronix for 3.5's since they carry a lot, and EVERY single offering in that size is a 2-way! Could not find a single 3.5" component style single cone speaker out there after trolling some more. Guess it will have to be a coax or see if there is a way to mount a 4 in there--the component offerings start at the 4" size.

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I'll have to check the diagram again, or better yet, the C4208B connector diagram, to see how many signals come through it. I'll be camping all weekend as soon as I leave work so it will be Sunday afternoon at the earliest before I'll have a chance to pull up the service manual.

 

I haven't had the front center grill off yet, but I did have the rear package tray off at one point and the rear center speaker is a poly cone of some sort, looked very similar to the door speaker material. I didn't measure it, but 3.5" would be about right.

 

-Rod

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I'll have to check the diagram again, or better yet, the C4208B connector diagram, to see how many signals come through it. I'll be camping all weekend as soon as I leave work so it will be Sunday afternoon at the earliest before I'll have a chance to pull up the service manual.

 

I haven't had the front center grill off yet, but I did have the rear package tray off at one point and the rear center speaker is a poly cone of some sort, looked very similar to the door speaker material. I didn't measure it, but 3.5" would be about right.

 

-Rod

 

Thanks, Rod. I did search for "C4208B" myself but came up empty.

 

Sounds like the Sony has upgraded speakers all around. No matter--seems a no-brainer for me to put something better in there at this level of upgrade.

 

I am currently trying to sort out the OEM integration options now. There are a number out there that look like possible candidates. Since nobody here has done anything like this due to having the Sony premium system, I trolled some other Ford vehicle forums and am picking up some information. (Ford trucks have a lot of mod guys too it seems...)

 

This seems to be a popular interface option, but am just digging into the capabilities now:

 

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/MS-8/MS-8_JBL_US

 

Pretty affordable at 450 street given the amplification is built-in.

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I am not sure if you checked. I am sure your consumed with the interface options.

 

But this price sure makes the Pioneer TS-D6802R look more interesting.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11270_Pioneer-TS-D6802R.html

 

(its all Ive got for now)

 

Those Pioneer D series can be had even cheaper--75 bucks from this rated seller on ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-TS-D6802R-6-x-8-2-Way-Speakers-260-W-6x8-/200820720977?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true,

 

These are popular on the car audio forums in that Pioneer "D" price range, but are 6.5" form factor:

 

http://www.precisionpower.com/html-version/products/speakers/A2-65C.html

 

While these may be an upgrade for a base stock system like mine, I question the value to those with the Sony which already have a decent quality mid-bass in the door. I think you probably need to step up a bit to get any significant improvement.

 

That said, I am looking at a step-up level (about $300/pair) now on the fronts--Hybrid Audio Imagines--very popular and well regarded on the specialty audio forums.

 

http://hybrid-audio.com/imagine/

 

Not touching the backs at all for now. Actually, considering leaving all factory speakers intact initially to get a benchmark on sound with just the sub and JBL MS-8, then start adding the new speakers if needed. At least that is my thinking now. Treating the front doors is highly recommended even with stock speakers. I'm not sure if I want to have the doors apart twice, so may want to do the front speakers initially based on that. Lots of options on phasing this upgrade if I go that route.

 

Yeah, "consumed" with interfaces would be an understatement. Looking forward to going back to the day job next week for a break from this...

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These connector pinouts should get you started.

http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/2011%20SHO/Audio/

 

-Rod

 

Thanks much, Rod. I see this is going to be a lot more involved if I use something like that JBL MS-8 in this system. I naively was thinking there would be a dedicated connector for the amp channel outputs to the speakers. Guess I am still thinking old days when back of a head unit was a pretty simple thing....

 

I need to tread carefully here. I'm also wondering if the head unit will go haywire if it does not see a speaker load at each of those speaker pin-outs--you only grab one L and R speaker output off the head unit with OEM integration units like this MS-8--the rest just effectively become open circuits.

 

I'm still determined to upgrade this system, but am wondering if a speaker level conversion on each channel feeding a good amp plus addition of a sub may do the job. Or safer still is just add the sub and upgrade the speakers, retaining head unit amplification for the system. I don't want to outsmart myself......

 

I have a lot of homework left to do.

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