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A lot of PIDs for the "extra" stuff mentioned (i.e. oil, tranny temps) aren't known to Torque unfortunately. You can't do exhaust temperature directly in Torque but you can monitor the temp of both Cat's which give you a general idea of what is going on. In addition to the things you mentioned above you can also monitor Timing, and Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) both "commanded" and "Measured", You can get Fuel rail PSI as well.

 

I started a thread on monitoring Knock but really didn't get any responses. I think the PID is correct (you have to add a custom one) in the other post but the formula still isn't right.

 

I have Torque set to start up automatically everytime I dock my phone in my car so I get instant gauges. I love the app and for the tiny amount it costs you can't beat it. I also have it log all of the value as the ones that aren't directly on your screen don't always update and its next to impossible to have all of those on your screen at one time.

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Not really. There are standard PIDs that are readily availale as part of ODB2 but manufacturers can create their own extended PIDS. They are manufacturer specific and you have to either know someone that has access to them (I.e. at Ford) or you can buy an insanely expensive membership and get them. They may even defer by strategy...I found some for a Ford diesel truck on the Internet just by searching and some seem to work but then you have to figure out the scaling and the equation. In other words it ain't easy. I have spent some time studying the CAN protocol and it is pretty straightforward but you are really just guessing. Someone at SCT I'm sure knows them but I doubt they would share as it probably violates an agreement someplace. All that said the standard stuff from Torque is pretty good.

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Here are the PIDS that I've been able to find are "active" on my '11 SHO.

 

What I believe is Knock (or spark retard) PID:2203ec (I am currently using the equation -A/4)

 

Oil (Trans?) Temperature PID:221e1d Equation/Scaling: ((A+(B/256))*(-16))+260 (This one I definitely know is temperature but I believe it might actually be Oil Temperature not transmission temperature as it reads too high for that (or I've got a bad equation). This one you can actually test by taking different readings at ambient temperatures and scaling from there. It's the offset of 260 I'm not positive about. You really would need someone with a manual gauge AND Torque to verify the readings to know 100%.

 

Note: This is the site I found some of the information from...it's from a 2010 F150 - Note I do NOT know if it specific to the EcoBoost motor...in fact a lot of the parameters listed here don't work so your mileage may vary but it is a good starting point.

 

https://www.autoapia.com/?page_id=116

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Some of the scanning is informational (like timing...it's good to know what the max is during WOT is but it is really only helpful to know if you are knocking at the same time as you would pull timing with the tuner if so to keep it from knocking in the first place). That said knock doesn't seem to be very high on anyone's list and honestly given the lack of failures I don't think its much of a problem for these cars as they react to the knock very quickly and learn over time.

 

AFR of 14.7:1 is considered ideal for emissions under normal loads but you want to be around 11.5:1 or 12.5:1 (these values vary for different cars and boosted applications with and without intercoolers etc...) to make good power without going too lean and popping a piston (again knock would show up). That said direct injection lets you hold 14.7:1 MUCH longer without worrying about knock. Usually you go in to power enrichment about the time you get into boost...this car I've noticed doesn't start enriching until almost WOT. It's probably why the car is so quick and makign lots of torque at 3/4 throttle...

 

Any other gauges you are wondering about?

 

Ideally knock should be 0 but a degree here or there probably won't kill anything...

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Some of the scanning is informational (like timing...it's good to know what the max is during WOT is but it is really only helpful to know if you are knocking at the same time as you would pull timing with the tuner if so to keep it from knocking in the first place). That said knock doesn't seem to be very high on anyone's list and honestly given the lack of failures I don't think its much of a problem for these cars as they react to the knock very quickly and learn over time.

 

AFR of 14.7:1 is considered ideal for emissions under normal loads but you want to be around 11.5:1 or 12.5:1 (these values vary for different cars and boosted applications with and without intercoolers etc...) to make good power without going too lean and popping a piston (again knock would show up). That said direct injection lets you hold 14.7:1 MUCH longer without worrying about knock. Usually you go in to power enrichment about the time you get into boost...this car I've noticed doesn't start enriching until almost WOT. It's probably why the car is so quick and makign lots of torque at 3/4 throttle...

 

Any other gauges you are wondering about?

 

Ideally knock should be 0 but a degree here or there probably won't kill anything...

 

I wish it had kr i don't think it's in there. I used to watch my kr on my mazdaspeed 3 because it was very knock sensitive. Randomly driving around I would see like 7-8 just cruising(phantom kr) but as long as you don't see anything 2-3+ consistent through the power band with the kr your good. E85 I never saw kr!!!!

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By default KR isn't but I believe I've found the PID (look back a couple of posts). It is a little confusing though....it will jump to 63.5 and count down under normal throttle but when you get on it it goes to zero unless its actually knocking and then it will just read the actual knock. I believe the decrementing signal is used to make sure the knock sensor is actually working....when it actually picks up knock it reports it. I got about 2.5 degrees of knock with stage 4 in the car according to the SCT and scanning with torque and this PID produced similar results. I pulled a degree of timing with the SCT and now it hardly knocks at all.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a couple of the inexpensive (~$25) dongles and they both work with my Galaxy SIII. One works a bit better than the other, but there are so many variations with the same packaging that I don't think I'd be able to tell you which two I have and which works better, only what they look like. Even then there's a good chance what you'd receive will be different.

 

What are your primary goals with the adapter, most just to read diagnostic codes or are you wanting to datalog?

 

-Rod

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