Secret Weapon R Cold Air Kit

[Husker02GT]

I found a few of these on eBay, but have not been able to find anything on the internet or any of the forums. I saw one post on TaurusClub introducting the product, but nothing after that....

 

What's the story with this Cold Air Kit?

 

CarID has them available

 

eBay

 

 

:suspicious:

Part number 307-190-101

[FoMoCoSho]

I'd stay away from it. Airaid if you like quiet, K&N if you like turbo and diverter valve eargazms.

[Husker02GT]

Just picked up an Airaid... Uniqueautodepot.com... $248.80 w\ coupon code + Free Shipping! Not too shabby, and should be here by UPS Ground in the next 7 days.

[pacoflyer]

I researched these on Youtube I did find a dyno vid where it made 4.1 hp and 7 lf lbs on a Scion. So it seems it will make power.

 

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance/286429-weapon-r-secret-weapon-intake-install-4.html

 

On this forum post you can see the back hose that comes with this intake that goes on the front of the filter and allows you to route it to the outside air. I really like that feature, and crafting a heat shield would be easy. But since its main air flow pull is from outside it seems to be designed well. The filter also pulls air in the engine bay that goes into a second tube which is what this intake has patented and claim makes more air flow.

 

Most of the dyno's I've been able to find it does make power. When I am ready to buy an air filter I'd give it a shot probably.

 

Dyno

 

http://www.hondata.com/images/civicsi_dyno_pdfs/stock_tuned_weaponr_vs_stock.pdf

[FoMoCoSho]

The k&n makes more power, pulls in air from the stock location and the fender well, can be had for cheaper, and it won't rice up your car.

[tss]

I would be interested in seeing a dyno differentiating that K&N makes more power than Airaid. Consensus here is that they are both not huge or significant power gainers. Mostly for style and sound. If there is a dyno comparing the two, that would give the K&N a nod. I just have never seen one.

[pacoflyer]

Weapon r would be same place as k&n and a hose to put in the fender for main air draw. Don't see how it wouldn't be as good.

 

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[mjhpadi]

Again, Airaid has been a supporter of this website since the beginning (if that makes any difference to you), they have proven to have great customer support (again, that being proven by all the people here who were got input or help from Airaid...my personal experience with K&N has been anything but stellar....had a filter fall apart, and they would not honor the warranty....however, when I told this story over at the TCCA website, a K&N employee did offer to help make that right, but since it happened years ago, I thanked him for the offer, told him I no longer had the vehicle that was involved, just wanted to tell the whole story.

[pacoflyer]

I am glad that Air Raid made a CAI but since I do not like the way it was designed being supportive doesn't = $$ I hope they continue to design things like possibly A full cold pipe set which I would like to see. But Weapon R is not K&N and is a 3rd vendor now for CAI. Does the evidence I've presented look like this might be an interesting product with the hose thing? Thats the only thing that stands out for me. These Weapon R's are big in the Import Scene as most evidence has them going on 350z Civic SI, integras etc.

[FoMoCoSho]

The k&n has a plate that bolts in the the stock inlet location that diverts cold air from the nose to the k&n. Due to the location of the K&N it pulls air from the fender also. The kit is well made, well worth the $212 paid. K&N spent the time to engineer a stock appearing plate, weapon shoved a dryer hose down the fenderwell. Where are Weapons specific dyno results? K@N and Airaid both spent the time and money to do one.

[FoMoCoSho]

K&N

 

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/69-3531_dyno.pdf

[larrylu]

The k&n has a plate that bolts in the the stock inlet location that diverts cold air from the nose to the k&n. Due to the location of the K&N it pulls air from the fender also. The kit is well made' date=' well worth the $212 paid. K&N spent the time to engineer a stock appearing plate, weapon shoved a dryer hose down the fenderwell. [/quote']

 

When I look at the fender area on my '10, I don't see a readily identifiable cold air source. Am I missing something? I have thought about cutting an air passage/port from the engine compartment to what I imagine is a pocket back there, possibly fed fresh air from the grille area. Another thought I had is to open up the front facing factory air source opening to make it a bit more generous. Not really convinced of the benefits as yet.

[mval]

My story why I ended up wit Airaid, was I wanted a K&N but their website & just checked again shows nothing for the 2010 SHO except reg filters. I called & got somebody there & they said everything that was available was on the web. So I went to Airaid's website & both units they offer for the SHO popped right up, so for me it was a no brainer, this is going back 6 months ago. Besides the $50 cash rebate & it was cash was a great & arrived in less than a week. Like the chrome look of the K&N, but Airaid fits perfect except for issue of checking tranny fluid which is not a big deal.

mikev

[pacoflyer]

I cannot find a sho specific dyno. It seems nobody has taken a chance yet but there are not that many sho drivers. The dryer hose is perfectly simple way to stick it where ever you feel would work. I linked other cars with the intake from an outside provider that tested it. I don't need to see a specific sho dyno if the design is the same. If it made power on another turbo car with the same design I don't see why it wouldn't on our cars. Its still a motor sucking in air.

 

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[Leadfoot]

When I look at the fender area on my '10' date=' I don't see a readily identifiable cold air source. Am I missing something? I have thought about cutting an air passage/port from the engine compartment to what I imagine is a pocket back there, possibly fed fresh air from the grille area. Another thought I had is to open up the front facing factory air source opening to make it a bit more generous. Not really convinced of the benefits as yet.[/quote']

 

I was thinking of cutting a hole in the stock box with a dryer hose going down the fender, but I have to see if there is viable spot to get cold air into the hose. Maybe a project next weekend.

[Kolk1]

Run a hose from your air vents, and just keep the A/C cranked.... lol

[larrylu]

I was thinking of cutting a hole in the stock box with a dryer hose going down the fender' date=' but I have to see if there is viable spot to get cold air into the hose. Maybe a project next weekend.[/quote']

 

Stock air box with an additional cold air source/tube and maybe add a K&N filter to the stock box and you might have an improvement. Or make an airtight lid for the Airaid with a supplemental cold air source and that might be even better. I've had similar thoughts.

[bpd1151]

My 2nd addt'l source of cold/fresh air comes from my nifty engine hood vents.

 

Sounds wicked loud now, and can definitely hear it not only sucking in all that air, but also the blow off is much more noticeable too.

 

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[larrylu]

My 2nd addt'l source of cold/fresh air comes from my nifty engine hood vents.

 

Sounds wicked loud now, and can definitely hear it not only sucking in all that air, but also the blow off is much more noticeable too.

 

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Your whole engine compartment must be measurably cooler. Did you see a drop in IAT?

[bpd1151]

I am currently measuring my IAT's via MyCal Device.

 

I had the engine hood vents cut in, prior to getting the MyCal, which essentially means I never measured them pre vent install.

 

So I couldn't honestly answer that question.

 

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[FoMoCoSho]

BPD, your vents can't hurt and from what I've been seeing with my scangauge I'm considering adding some. Driving normally, my IAT's are a couple of degrees within ambient(60's this week). Once the car sits for any length of time (Even off), this changes quickly shooting up to 130-140. Once the heat soak starts, you're not getting back to near ambient. My suspicion is this is pre-intercooled readings since it doesn't seem to affect performance at all.

 

I was surprised at this and the only thing I can imagine is that the belly pan helps to lock the heat in the engine bay.

[bpd1151]

Yea, my IAT's stay pretty consistent (to ambient) even when stopped at a (traffic) light or what have you, I can at least attest to that.

 

The problem I discovered with these engine hood vents though, is that if I leave the under belly pan(s) off, anything in the triple digits begins to get that entire hood shaking up and down.

 

Start hit'n the 130MPH+ range(s), it gets pretty damn violent.

 

So I've replaced the pan(s) and it seems to have alleviated most of that experienced issue.

 

I am still considering adding hood pins though, and have already spoken to my body shop people recently when I stopped by there to remove those side rocker panels, and rear valance for painting.

[larrylu]

BPD, your vents can't hurt and from what I've been seeing with my scangauge I'm considering adding some. Driving normally, my IAT's are a couple of degrees within ambient(60's this week). Once the car sits for any length of time (Even off), this changes quickly shooting up to 130-140. Once the heat soak starts, you're not getting back to near ambient. My suspicion is this is pre-intercooled readings since it doesn't seem to affect performance at all.

 

I was surprised at this and the only thing I can imagine is that the belly pan helps to lock the heat in the engine bay.

 

I'm monitoring the IAT also and like you usually under way I'm under ambient by a couple of degrees, which I attributed to intercooling. I also have seen the IAT rise when at a standstill in traffic to the 130 / 140 degree range and once underway it does take some driving to bring the IAT back to near ambient. That said surely the IAT value we are measuring cannot be pre intercooling. What would the reason for measuring pre intercooled unless we also had a post intercooled to compare it with. If I'm not looking at this correctly, please straighten me out.

[Scrming]

I'm monitoring the IAT also and like you usually under way I'm under ambient by a couple of degrees' date=' which I attributed to intercooling. I also have seen the IAT rise when at a standstill in traffic to the 130 / 140 degree range and once underway it does take some driving to bring the IAT back to near ambient. That said surely the IAT value we are measuring cannot be pre intercooling. What would the reason for measuring pre intercooled unless we also had a post intercooled to compare it with. If I'm not looking at this correctly, please straighten me out.[/quote']

 

IAT is probably going to be pre-turbo... If the PID is IAT it's going to be the IAT sensor located right by the air filter. Actually I'm not surprised you are seeing 130+.. that IAT sensor seems to heat up pretty good... I think the AirAid may actually be worse than stock, but don't have hard numbers to prove it. I have found however that that IAT sensor by the air filter, does have quite a bit of influence on how the car performs... In fact I now ice the intake tube and air box down when I go to the track...

 

The PID for after the turbo and intercooler is going to be something like IAT2 or Charge Temp....

[Crash712us]

There is a intake manifold air temp sensor, but we can't see with standard MyCal software. I'm not even sure the enhance software allows this, I know 1st-sho has the enhanced perhaps he will chime in?