steve142857 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 An interesting tidbit that I ran across should help those who do not understand the oil spec and what it means. "Viscosity, at its most basic, is a fluid's resistance to flow. Within the engine oil world, viscosity is notated with the common "XW-XX." The number preceding the "W" rates the oil's flow at 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 degrees Celsius). The "W" stands for winter, not weight as many people think. The lower the number here, the less it thickens in the cold. So 5W-30 viscosity engine oil thickens less in the cold than a 10W-30, but more than a 0W-30. An engine in a colder climate, where motor oil tends to thicken because of lower temperatures, would benefit from 0W or 5W viscosity. A car in Death Valley would need a higher number to keep the oil from thinning out too much. The second number after the "W" indicates the oil's viscosity measured at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). This number represents the oil's resistance to thinning at high temperatures. For example, 10W-30 oil will thin out at higher temperatures faster than 10W-40 will." Cannot be clearer! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 :RpS_thumbsup: Thanks, that's a nice simple explanation and makes it easy to understand...great post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 The reason for a low first number is that when starting a cold car, you want oiling throughout the engine as quickly as is reasonably possible. When engine is hot... you want oil thick enough to stay on the parts for lubrication. However, the thicker the oil, the more it slows down the engine causing more fuel usage. That's why manufacturers have gone to lighter weight oils for normal driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 The reason for a low first number is that when starting a cold car' date=' you want oiling throughout the engine as quickly as is reasonably possible. When engine is hot... you want oil thick enough to stay on the parts for lubrication. However, the thicker the oil, the more it slows down the engine causing more fuel usage. That's why manufacturers have gone to lighter weight oils for normal driving.[/quote'] I believe Honda and then Ford were the first manufacturers to officially recommend using 5w-20 in some of their vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjht Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Some of it is due to tighter clearances in motors now as well correct? Thicker weight oils can't flow as well in to the tighter places and won't lubricate as well, or atleast that's what I have read before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Likely... We use straight 30 weight oil in our 502 boat engine. Can't even use synthetic, as the Crane Rollers for Roller Cam will slide instead of roll. Thicker oil allows them to work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 :thumb:Hhhm, Bob that's really interesting, I never thought of synthetic causing a problem with rollers on the lifters, but it does make sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoman04 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Likely... We use straight 30 weight oil in our 502 boat engine. Can't even use synthetic' date=' as the Crane Rollers for Roller Cam will slide instead of roll. Thicker oil allows them to work properly.[/quote'] Stock dealer oil service is not a synthetic but a blind. Not a 100% of either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double c Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 here is a link to the best, that I have read, discussion/explanation of oils. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 :thumb:Hhhm' date=' Bob that's really interesting, I never thought of synthetic causing a problem with rollers on the lifters, but it does make sense.[/quote'] With Crane rollers and roller cam, it's a spring tension issue from what I was told. They were designed before Synthetic Oil became such a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Forgive my ignorance, but full synthetic is fine in our cars, right? Just want to double check - my familiarity with turbo cars is very limited and out dated (1990 300 ZX TT). Just want to make sure..... thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash712us Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Yes synthetic fine for our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Forgive my ignorance' date=' but full synthetic is fine in our cars, right? Just want to double check - my familiarity with turbo cars is very limited and out dated (1990 300 ZX TT). Just want to make sure..... thanks.[/quote'] Yes, it is fine, I am using Royal Purple and I know others are using Mobil One, and I am sure some others are using other synthetics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Thanks guys. I use Mobil1 generally, because I get free oil changes at a local GM dealership and that is the synthetic they carry. I am thinkiong I will bring them a motorcraft filter though...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Nothing wrong with Motorcraft filters, I like and use Mobil One, Royal Purple (both are my top favs), followed closely by Purolator Pure One, and Motorcraft. But both the Mobil One filters and the Royal Purple just seem to be built so much stronger then any I have compared I just feel very comfortable with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tss Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I thought I read on here that Motorcraft filters were the filter of choice.. Or I possibly imagined that....... In any event I picked up a few after work today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash712us Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 They are my choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac98SHO Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 My first oil change will be Amsoil 5W-30, and maybe I will use the Amsoil filter. I used Amsoil and Motorcraft filter in my Mustang, though I am not sure yet on the SHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLIP-4-SHO Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Royal Purple oil, and Motorcraft oil Filters in all my Ford cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darreli Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 This is my combo [ATTACH=CONFIG]743[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaker281 Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I switched my 2010 to 5w30 full synthetic for the summer and at the same time changed the air filter (both air and oil filters are MC). I have never gotten better MPG! Over night it went from 23.5 to 25.5 MPG in daily driving! I guess a combination of full synthetic, warmer weather and the MC air filter (found a Fram in there!). I think it is safe to assume that FMC did not change the engine internals from 2010 to 2011, so the obvious conclusion is they decided 5w30 was a better choice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 As has been said before.... It was done because F-150 EB Engine uses 5W-30. The 5W-20 got slightly better mileage in govt. testing, and when you build as many as Ford did, it makes a difference in cost with Govt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Again, as (I believe it was Torrie said): "If the recommendation for your car is 5W-20 then use 5W-20 and if the recommendation is 5W-30 then use it!" However, that being said I believe that the majority of us are using one of the 2 of the above weights and I have not heard of anyone having a problem with either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EcoBrick Bob Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I think it is safe to assume that FMC did not change the engine internals from 2010 to 2011, so the obvious conclusion is they decided 5w30 was a better choice! They= Ford... Unless you are Ford, and know for certain why... I wouldn't be as confident as you are about any of this, including engine internals,oil weight, their Strategy code etc( yes the strategy code Ford is using in various EB engines could affect this too). This is only your opinion. Note what Torrie has said, and he is a professional tuner. However, what you do yourself is up to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjhpadi Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Agreed Bob, Torrie's statement made me convinced that I am doing the correct thing staying with 5w-20 for my car. Torrie doesn't make a lot of comments so I tend to believe that when Torrie speaks, we should listen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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